ALTA BOV Installation INSTRUCTIONS:
Removal of factory air box:
1) Open hood and disconnect battery (-) terminal. (Battery is located in passenger side window cowl cover)
2) Locate MAF sensor housing, and remove hose clamp securing MAF housing to turbo inlet hose. Remove Electrical connection on MAF sensor.
3) Remove Air box top from OEM air box bottom. Remove top by loosening 4 torx screws on front side of box. Once loosened, lift front forward and off clips at back of
box.
4) Unbolt MAF housing from air box top. Take extreme care in not dropping MAF housing, as this is an easily damaged item.
5) Locate fresh air pipe where it enters air box bottom. This connection releases by twisting roughly 60 degrees, then pulling straight off. There is a large o-ring
located behind this flange and can make the tube very hard to remove from air box. Spraying down with some penetrating lube will help removal of pipe.
6) Remove torx screw located on passenger side of Air box bottom and remove air box from car.
7) Locate Sound Generator on vehicle. This is a black plastic chamber that connects to the Cold side boost tube, and to the plastic firewall. Loosen hose clamp from
rubber hose to remove sound generator from boost tube. Unsnap Sound Generator from plastic fire wall.
8) Install supplied 5/32” hose onto BOV fitting, and Install BOV to boost tube making sure to use supplied hose clamp.
9) Locate area on manifold to install vacuum fitting. We suggest drilling into the center of the intake manifold. Double check that fitting, will clear intake when
reinstalled.
10) Use a 21/64” to make hole in manifold. Great care must be taken when drilling to not get any plastic into manifold. Blowing compressed air into the MAP sensor
hole will aid in keeping plastic chips out of hole.
11) Once hole is properly drilled, tap hole with a 1/8”NPT tap. While drilling and tapping the use of compressed air will help keep chips out of intake manifold. NOTE:
Take time while tapping to ensure you don’t tap the threads too deep! 1/8NPT is a tapered type of thread, so it is critical you don’t tap too far. We recommend
tapping a few turns then removing tap and test fitting until it fitting threads 2-3 full turned into manifold.
12) Install supplied fitting into manifold. The use of loctite is recommended to ensure a good seal.
13) Connect vacuum hose from BOV to intake manifold fitting.
14) BOV is factory set, and no adjustment is necessary. But if adjusting is wanted, read directions below.
15) Start car and check for leaks. If car runs erratically, check for leaks around BOV flange, or piston being open too far. The piston needs to be closed at idle, or car
will run erratically.
Tuning INSTRUCTIONS:
Adjusting Spring Tension
• Adjusting the spring tension is the PERRIN BOV doesn’t adjust the amount of boost it holds. Because of our unique design, no spring is
needed to hold boost. The spring is used to adjust how quickly the BOV vents boost, and when the BOV vents boost while backing off of
the throttle.
• Adjusting the spring tension tighter will make the BOV vent slower, and in turn, vent closer to zero percent throttle.
• Adjusting the spring tension looser will make the BOV vent quicker, and in turn vent closer to when throttle is initially lifted.
• Adjusting of spring tension effects the amount BOV flows when BOV vents. When adjusting spring tension, either remove flow control
screw, or thread screw all the way down.
• Please note there are grooves on body to indicate spring tension. Cap must be screwed down far enough to cover o-ring on body, or a
boost leak will occur.
• If cap is set too loose, BOV piston may be open at idle. This isn’t a problem unless being used on a car with a MAF sensor. Simply tighten
cap down until piston is closed.
• After spring tension is set, follow directions below to adjust flow.
Adjusting Flow
• Using diagram below locate flow control screw. The distance between cap and top of screw determines amount of valve lift. This amount
of lift determines amount the BOV flows when it opens between shifts.
• Flow control should be adjusted only after spring tension is set.
• Adjusting flow control screw shorter will make BOV vent the maximum amount of boost when BOV vents. Venting too much boost can
cause turbo lag, as the turbo has to refill the boost tubes.
• Adjusting flow control screw longer will make BOV flow less when BOV vents. The benefit to this is to keep some of the pressurize air in
the boost system, making the turbo do less work to re-fill boost tubes. Not venting enough boost can cause compressor surge.
Compressor surge can cause the turbo to stop, and in turn will have to re-spool to build boost, causing turbo lag.
• Once adjustment is set, make sure to lock nut down to piston.

 

Lost of around 7-8, Whats the point in drilling the IM if your just going to attach it to the boost tube ?

 

thats where they are getting the vacuum from that they T onto it.

 

Ohhh makes sense. Gotha! thanks!

 

anybody got pictures of the T to split the vacuum source for boost gauge and bov?

 

I found this one on the web


I guess you would just tap into the vacuum line that feeds the boost gauge.

 

Sweet dude! Yeah, talk to redhotpontiac, I forget his name He is fabbing a lot of stuff himself...I'll most likely get a HS and Rear Strut from him...he showed me his design and all. Good luck dude and show me when your done.

Of course, Adam could just make some and make our lives easier! Right Adam!

 

^^^ Guys! Our total bad, but the BOV (or boost gauge) doesn't require any drilling anymore. I need to update the instructions, but you would use the boost port adapter that doesn't require any drilling at all.

Previous to the boost port adapter coming out, then yes we did recommend drilling (as I did on the Howard project from 2007/08)

Hope that helps some!

Let me know if I can help further!

 

Adam, can you explain how a forge BOV might make it worse as you stated?

 

I have been running the forge BOV adapter plate, and I havent had any problems with it at all. Its not a BOV, its an adapter that changes your DV into a BOV.

 

Still emphasizing the word MIGHT. The point being is that contraption goes in-between the ports on the OEM BPV. As such there may be less air volume that can be expelled and while you get a cool noise with shifting (as you would have otherwise with an open style intake system) it may be hindering that necessary boost pressure.

As a result of the pressure not being released in large enough volume, then the surge back would then stop the turbo in its place.

Hope that helps clarify what is my opinion, not necessarily fact!

 

Adam, you think it is releasing less air with the adapter. I was thinking it may release more air.

 

Totally hear what you are thinking as well. Compressed air can do odd things that defy logic in many cases. So the additional backpressure of the air having to pass through those passages to escape might be enough to still stop the turbo.

Again I HAVEN'T TESTED this. Just thinking as to why clients with that valve sometimes have a higher incidence of this problem than those without.

 

I was thinking the SAME exact thing. I thought that the forge spacer would relieve more air with a DV than a DV by itself.

 

Does anyone have a video recording exactly what compressor surge sounds like? I definitely have a strange noise coming when I floor it in first gear (it seems to make a whooshing noise at around 5800rpm and then it shifts prematurel), but not much in any other gear. Is it more prevalent in a manual car?

 

I just found a car on youtube that does it, he has a forge spacer also It would sound like this, listen closely to the 4-5 second and the 11-12 second frame.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9WYAxbVNTck

 

I've got that too! I have on order the hard pipe kit from Exhaust Depot, with the HKS so when I install it I will let you know if I think it has helped. I have noticed with more mods, it seems to get louder. I've got the DoS intake, PnP Head, Alta Intake Tube, Alta Boost Tubes, Forge DV, ED Downpipe, and Invidia Exhaust. And it really has seemed to increase with every mod. Hopefully the HKS helps!

 

Hey guys and gals,

Forgot to mention I changed the AMP-INT-620 on our site to reflect the Boost Port Adapter to being included. If someone already has the Boost Gauge Kit and now needs the BOV, order it, and then I will credit back to the card to compensate.

Also more pics with installation instructions updated very soon! Sorry for the previous confusion.

Thanks again!

 

Hey all,

I just removed my forge (spacer) last night = NO surge now!! Gear shifting seem much smoother now..

So I have to agree with Adam. The spacer from forge can´t get all the air out as fast as the oem... And I have all the mods. except a bigger turbo..

 

GOOD Information! That should help a ton of people!

 

Shocking...

You mean OEM bypass works better?!?! NO WAY!

 

no seriously it might. The Forge valve restricts some of the vented boost pressure. So yes the OEM would be better as it vents more. Using an ALTA, Helix or similar would be a better choice if you want to improve on the stock setup.

(again not poking!)

 

Hmm..interesting, so you no longer get surging when you partially release the throttle? And what do you mean about all the mods? Do you also have a unichip?

 

my post was sarcasm.

 

Yes - I no longer get surging and I try giving full throttle to 3000/3500(many times) letting go and then phiift - like it should do. I have shiftet the inside off my oem bov to the oem 2.0 TFSI audi.
I have the Steinbauer box (i´m from Denmark) aprox. 235 and 305 nm. at the wheels.