Now that is some pretty sound advice!!

 

Greg
If your talking about Rode Island with Randy you seem to have forgotten a few things. I know your car only made about 202-204 on the dyno as mine did. You made the 230 only when a bottle of compressed gas was blown over the intercooler. Remember those days of the unichip. I'm glad that was my old car. I've moved on with a tune thats not on the edge in my GP and glad I did.

 

No, ... I made 214 with the gas on the IC. I made 236 with the fan. I still have all those pics. It was a different time, It's why I made the fan for that day because I saw how everyone's ICs were heat soaking.

 

Nothing misleading. The RMW tune are the numbers in my sig.(I only mentioned my numbers BEFORE the tune.) I actually lost 1peak whp with the tune. but gained about 5whp avg. throughout the powerband, and about 10ftlbs of torque.

Also, the 168whp and the 193 whp involved no fans whatsoever. only when i went for the RMW was a small fan used on the intercooler.


sorry...I made a mistake. Once I got home and went through my folder. I only made 168whp with just the intake. and made 193whp with intake and pulley....I was going from memory and I updated my previous statements to reflect the correct numbers(my memory was close)...but regardless what you say or think.... it happened. I have video and papers to show it. Ive even replicated the results using two different dynos. Wish I had a nice fancy explanation, but i don't. Everyone at the tune was just as shocked as I was.

 

It really doesn't matter at all to me. I was just pointing it out.


So many factors come into play on a dyno. Even a small miscalculation in the calibration will throw off numbers radically. We proved with with Mustang Dyno at my school in Cleveland. Cars were putting down almost 1.5x what they actually made with only a slight miscalibration.
Dyno numbers are only useful to a point. Then real world numbers need to be used after that point to compare two vehicles. I like to use 1/4 mile times and trap speeds. They are much better at comparing vehicles, alike or not. There are some cars that put down incredible dyno numbers but lack the real world performance. I'm not saying that is what you car is, just making the statement.

 

Yes.. do the pulley and CAI.. then save for the head! the head pulls it all together, then do the TUNE as the last mod if you can wait that long..LOL
The averages I see with pulley/CAI/1-ball is about 180 whp ( dynojet) some a bit more and some a bit less!! But the 180 is a fun ride!! Most tunes are seeing 20-25 more HP.

There is a big post on water-meth!! After you wade thru the posts, the bottom line is that it is a power booster and added safety to the boosted MINI!! I saw 10 WHP on an untuned ECU, on a few tuned w/m as much as 24 MORE hp!!

Just a few thoughts.. shop around, there are a lot of good parts at a lot of different pricing... cool??

Just me.................................

Thumper

 

i'll be able to give a better idea once I learn how to drive on a dragstrip, lol. I know all dynos are different. I kept track after each mod, not to see what my peak whp was, but just to see what kind of benefit each individual mod gave my car. My greatest mistake/regret is not getting a stock hp reading. I figured id just go by what every other car gets on avg...

 

With:
17%
CAI
Exhaust
DFIC
380'c
I dyno'd 187 to the wheels before tune.

If I was starting over I would do:
17%
CAI
Exhaust

Then I would save for a head cam header - tune combo

 

ive been doing things a bit backwards from most people here. my first mod was a CAI then did a Miltek cat back, threw on the huge Alta IC havnt dino'd yet but feels stronger than my buddy's with just the 15% pully. then did the useless UNIchip (crap 100% crap!) I have a M7 16% pully that I am getting put on soon along with doing the dimesport tune may throw on 380 injectors just for the hell of it. if I was going to do it over again id go head first cat back then CAI THEN pulley but thats just me.

 

especially if you install yourself. And it's $/hp is close to the best that can be had. While a head really opens up the airflow, it's open heart surgury to the Mini.....

Matt

 

Becoming quite the fish tale. You don't know the baseline so we don't know the delta. All dynos are different but you replicated the results on two others. So, you dynoed each component on two other dynos and obtained the same numbers for each addition, but no baseline for comparison.

 

1) Pulley

2) Cam, Header, Injectors, Tune

3) Head, re-Tune

Not much else is giving substantial gains. #2 can be done in various orders, its up to your pocketbook and time table. I can say though, with the right combo of parts and tuning, a hell of a lot of power can be had without the head.

 

Here's my plan of action since I'm more limited on funds for the more expensive stuff liker headers, cams etc... This is my 10 focused goals right now.

1.) Alta CAI V.2 $250-300
2.) 17% Helix Pulley with SC Belt $120 - 130
3.) One-Ball Exhaust Mod $50 - 100
4.) EBC Green Stuff Brake Pads w/ New Rotors $200 - 250
5.) Brisk Spark Plugs $60
6.) New plug wires because mines are going bad. (optional) $30 - 40
7.) M7 STB $200
9.) Helix Short Shifter $Forgot
10.) Lighter Wheels and Better Rubbers $1000 - $1300

Maybe 11.) Radar Detector. $250 - 300

All priced before labor.
And then every now and then I'd throw in a aesthetics mod. So far, I've changed my mirror caps, blacked out my belt line, gas cap, side scuttles, and door handles.

 

What is the difference between the Alta sportone and the Alta Stealth catback exhausts?

 

in the Alta ask and answer thread? They'd be the best source of that info...

Matt

 

1 is chrome and the other is black

 

Like one guy said before, if I buy the Alta stealth catback, and buy the Megan Racing Header later, won't those to fit together, they are both 2,5 right? Isn't that a good setup together, Megan Racing header and Alta catback?

 

I am sorry you are having difficulty following. I have a local dyno that I have been using. I dyno the car after each modification. I went to charlotte and got a RMW tune, and was dyno'd there obviously...on a totally different kind of dyno. Came home, ran on my same local dyno and Replicated the results.

And yes ALL dynos are different, there are too many variations that play into results. but if i get 202.7whp on one dyno and 201.9 on another dyno. I would argue to say that we can consider that "replicating".

I am sorry you dont want to believe me. I dont really care. I am not selling anything or trying to prove anything. Just stating the numbers that appear on the papers laying infront of my face.

 

If it is a true 2.5 inch header and you want an optimum match, look elswhere.
I'm following your lead and it has taken this many posts to get a clearer description and timeline of events. It is now known all the mods were not installed and dynoed on the same dyno or day of the tune. It is now known there was only one other dyno used (not the two stated for corroboration)and the component installs were over an extended period which makes each of those dyno deltas less than accurate. We know there was no baseline to see what the intake made and we know that without a baseline for each dyno, comparing two dynos is less than useful, much less understanding the peak delta on the same dyno. Another gap, were both dynos load bearing or inertia? Now we have qualifiers, unfortunately, the OP probably will only see the optimistic numbers (without understanding the impact of the qualifiers), at least now he has the opportunity to see those numbers are exceptions.

 

onasled

I remember the first time our cars were done, But I wasn't around for your home made fan deal. I remember we met at the first when I was on my way back from LRP. I think that started your bug for the track. Then we met at LRP that spring. Now look at your car. When's your first track date this year.

1. header,exhaust,cam and tune if you have a JCW gen1.

If you have the bucks add a head to above at the same time.

 

Yes Larry, I remember those Randy Webb days. I believe that was the day that the Nitrous Mini jumped off the dyno.
I've been involved in racing for a lot of my life but it was the mini that actually gave me the opportunity to be the driver rather then the crew. Thanks to Miss Michele for that! I often wonder how different life would be if I had bought that Jetta.

Yea, that second time I went back I brought that fan. Gave it to the owner there also. Was amazing what numbers everyone was getting with that fan. Being you were with me when we dynoed without it, you can see the difference. Now, if only you could move anywhere near that much air through the IC when driving.

Not sure about race schedule in '09. Finances with this economy are somewhat restrictive. Maybe some hill climbs up in NY and Vermont.

Here ya go Larry!

 

The Megan racing header is cheap. The welding is fine, the design is not optimal, and the flex joint is a piece of carp. I had 2, and I believe now that a header is not a place to economize. Better to wait having done other mods first.

 

Well it depends on what you want out of your.

Way back I had an OBX with a Milltek. I never dynoed to see what I got from the two but I didn't care back then. What I did get was what I consider the best sounding Mini exhaust period. I loved that sound and it only added more everytime I drove it. It was well worth the money spent.

Longboard

 

Off topic but, onasled, what wheels are on the mini in the right of that picture? Thanks a lot.

 

Im not Onasled, but I have those wheels--Kosei K1s. No longer made so I was told. They used to be very popular with the Miata crowd.