Drivetrain super charger belt change
If you look at any of the HOWTO threads on changing the supercharger pulley, the steps for replacing the belt are included in the directions.
Basically, the swap is very easy if you have the factory tool to relieve the tension on the belt. Some people have done it without the factory tool by either fabbing up an equivalent tool themselves or by using a combination of prybars, screwdrivers and the like, but the factory tool makes it much easier.
Basically, the swap is very easy if you have the factory tool to relieve the tension on the belt. Some people have done it without the factory tool by either fabbing up an equivalent tool themselves or by using a combination of prybars, screwdrivers and the like, but the factory tool makes it much easier.
Turner Motorsports sells it for $95, but if you ask around, I bet some local MINI owner bought one to do a pulley swap and would let you borrow theirs.
Wow, somebody is making some serious profit on those things. It looks like about $5 worth of materials. I can see why so many people use alternatives means to get that spring depressed.
Thanks for the info I had no idea they were that much.
Thanks for the info I had no idea they were that much.
Borrow the tool and spare the expense. Check with your local MINI club members. Our club has a few that members don't mind sharing.
The belt swap is not hard to do.
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Point taken minihune, that tool definitely has an aggravation prevention value of way over $5. Good Point.
Borrowing from a local club member is always a good option and an opportunity to share a little more personally with another enthusiast.
Borrowing from a local club member is always a good option and an opportunity to share a little more personally with another enthusiast.
I used my Bentley manual to help me remove the drive belt. Bentley's never failed me but it is very simple, just remove the fender liner and some of the bottom front spolier/rock-guard. The aforementioned tool does help significantly as does having small hands. You could also look for instructions on replacing the pulley as you have to remove the belt to do so, and that could point you in the right direction as there are tons of those guides out there. I got the belt tensioner tool from Aaron at OutMotoring and it couldn't have made the job easier. I did my belt around 65k miles when I started to hear a chirping and when accelerating I felt the car slipping. I'm glad I replaced it when I did (see pic of the old belt)...
The belt can be changed without removing the wheel and liner. Drive up on ramps, remove the splash gaurd over the oil pan, slip the belt from the idler pulley, off the SC pulley, and pull through the bottom; installing the new, hang the belt over the SC pulley, and route the new belt over the other pulleys saving the idler for last. I use a stick to position the belt where my hands can't reach.
The belt can be changed without removing the wheel and liner. Drive up on ramps, remove the splash gaurd over the oil pan, slip the belt from the idler pulley, off the SC pulley, and pull through the bottom; installing the new, hang the belt over the SC pulley, and route the new belt over the other pulleys saving the idler for last. I use a stick to position the belt where my hands can't reach.
The best part is it was fast and cheep. And no tool to buy.
The belt can be changed without removing the wheel and liner. Drive up on ramps, remove the splash gaurd over the oil pan, slip the belt from the idler pulley, off the SC pulley, and pull through the bottom; installing the new, hang the belt over the SC pulley, and route the new belt over the other pulleys saving the idler for last. I use a stick to position the belt where my hands can't reach.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but are you saying you can simply slip the belt off and back on without using the tensioner tool. I am getting ready to change my belt and would like to avoid buying the tensioner tool if at all possible. I am running a 15% pulley and would like to put a smaller belt on.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Since replacing supercharger belts comes up periodically with always the same responses about using buying/borrowing a tensioner tool, how about a show of hands and locations of listers who have the tool to loan out and post it some place on this forum. OK, I'm George in Shoreline (just north of Seattle Washington) and I have a tensioner tool for borrowing for Seattlelite R53 owners. I have replaced my belt so can also offer tips and encouragement.
One thing that I did find out about the tool; it's a little fiddly keeping the tool pins engaged in the tensioner holes when you're loading it up. I used a long piece of welding rod to lock the tensioner.
One thing that I did find out about the tool; it's a little fiddly keeping the tool pins engaged in the tensioner holes when you're loading it up. I used a long piece of welding rod to lock the tensioner.
Tip: To keep the tensioner tool pins in place, I use a wood shim on the side. BTW, I wouldn't think of taking a long trip or going to a track event w/o the tensioner tool. I've saved a couple of MINI owners a bunch of aggrevation due to thrown/busted belts. Oh, yes...check your tool kit..either in the tool wrap or the foam plastic "brick" wedged into the battery box. You'll find a wire tool to stick in the tensioner hole.
Thanks for the response and tips.
Good idea ramjet77. I will be purchasing the tensionser tool very soon. I can't offer any guidance yet, but can offer the tool for borrowing. I'm Chris and located in Dayton, OH.
Good idea ramjet77. I will be purchasing the tensionser tool very soon. I can't offer any guidance yet, but can offer the tool for borrowing. I'm Chris and located in Dayton, OH.
You don't need the special tool, just a long steel rod, about 3ft long.
I found some guy's solution on here for not using the tool, after a while of searching. Can't remember his name or where to find the post, but the credit goes to him for this. It works quite well. I just found some old iron rod in my garage, it was about 3ft long, and just picked random screw out of my toolbox that looked about right.
a 5/8" or 16mm hex socket for a fulcrum point
a 1" to 1.5" screw
and a little allen key to place in the hole to hold the tensioner back.
My crappy diagram, giving you the basic idea.
I found some guy's solution on here for not using the tool, after a while of searching. Can't remember his name or where to find the post, but the credit goes to him for this. It works quite well. I just found some old iron rod in my garage, it was about 3ft long, and just picked random screw out of my toolbox that looked about right.
a 5/8" or 16mm hex socket for a fulcrum point
a 1" to 1.5" screw
and a little allen key to place in the hole to hold the tensioner back.
My crappy diagram, giving you the basic idea.
Belt has been changed
I purchased the tensioner tool from ebay for $65 shipped and it worked great. First time changing the belt and did it in less than thirty minutes. I used the Gatorback 635 and know now the old belt was slipping.
Thx for the tips.
Thx for the tips.
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