Drivetrain changing valve spring
#1
08-24-2008, 11:10 AM
#2
08-24-2008, 01:31 PM
i've tried a couple different valve spring tools on the mini head and it sucks. the casting seems to always be in the way . the tool you want would be the tool from mini (head still on ) you can bring the piston to t.d.c. and run chord or yarn into the cyl. so the valve won't drop then do the spring.
#3
03-08-2012, 07:30 PM
I am in this exact same position right now. i have a broken spring on the intake and I dont want to pull the head.
how could one compress the spring enough to get the valve on there? (while still on the car) does anyone have a photo of this? or can anyone direct me to more info?
Thanks guys
I just found this tool... not sure if it will do it though
http://www.samicspecialtools.com/uni...mpressor-tool/
how could one compress the spring enough to get the valve on there? (while still on the car) does anyone have a photo of this? or can anyone direct me to more info?
Thanks guys
I just found this tool... not sure if it will do it though
http://www.samicspecialtools.com/uni...mpressor-tool/
#4
03-08-2012, 07:53 PM
ok - i am getting there... I just found this:
Pressurizing the Cylinder
Pressurizing the Cylinder
The easiest way to change that leaky valve stem seal, or to change the springs and retainers on your set-up without removing the head is to pressurize the cylinder. First you will need to get an attachment for your compressed air that can be threaded into the spark plug bung. You can purchase them from most major suppliers like Jegs or Summit. Also my local carquest had them. Also if you have a compression check guage, most of the guages can have the hose removed from the guage and a compressed air fitting can be fitted on and wala, you got it.
Once you have that set-up you should then:
1. Remove the valve cover
2. Find the particular cylinder your going to work on
3. Set that cylinder at TDC so you have the smallest volume to keep pressurized
4. Insert your adapter and set your line pressure at around 20-40 psi.
Remember to not go crazy and try to pressurize the cylinder with 120 psi just because your compressor can do it. While I know that the cylinder experiences pressure way higher, there is just no point. Now you are all set up and you can change those leaky valve stem seals in a matter of a couple of hours instead of a days project.
For those that don't own an air compressorAnother trick that works just as well, but requires more finesse and time is to use a rope. Yes you heard me correctly, I said a rope. You want to use the soft wax covered ropes often used for rock climbing. Then do the following:
1. Locate the cylinder you plan to work on
2. Lower the cylinder half way down
3. Feed the rope down into the spark plug hole while giving it a little turning motion with your hand. The idea is to get the rope to coil like a snake and fill the cylinder area.
4. Start to bring the cylinder up until you feel the rope compress against the roof of the combustion chamber.
5. Have a friend hold or wedge something to hold the crank while you compress out the valves. With the nice, soft rope you can compress the valves and remove the valve spring clips out of the retainer without doing damage.
***Remember*** to check for other relevant information in the columns and article tables.
#5
03-08-2012, 09:53 PM
watch these videos before attempting this job!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2MvH3...e_gdata_player
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fZ5nZ...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2MvH3...e_gdata_player
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fZ5nZ...eature=related
Last edited by vr4; 03-11-2012 at 10:13 AM.
#7
03-09-2012, 08:29 AM
http://parts.miniofsouthatlanta.com/...hString=spring
I will purchase 12 and 13 - any other suggestions?
Last edited by vr4; 03-09-2012 at 09:10 AM.
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#8
03-09-2012, 12:02 PM
here is another tread dealing with this:
http://www.mini2.com/forum/first-gen...2-misfire.html
Quote:
"I decided to pull off the intake rocker arms. I did and as I was peering closely at the cam I noticed 1 intake valve appeared to be sitting a little bit lower than the other 7. Well what do you know,it was the 3rd valve from the left, or #2 cylinder intake valve. I have one of those "See Snake" inspection camera/viewer made by Ridgid with the extra small head so I passed this veiwer down through the spark plug tube and did not see any shiny spots on top of the piston to indicate any collision between valve and piston. Yesterday I drive the hour up to the MINI dealer and bought 2 valve spring just in case I found a second bad one. This morning I installed the valve spring and I just got back from my test drive and all is well again. No more codes, no more misfires, and everything is great again.
I really appreciate anyone's interest in this thread and especially appreciate anyone that wrote me with insights or advice.I hope my efforts will save someone some of the frustration I have experienced in the past 3 weeks.
The valve springs are about $9.00 ea. I bought a valve spring compressor at NAPA because the one you rent at Autozone I could not get to work because the jaws that hook on the bottom of the spring are not staggered to squarely grab spiraled spring. NAPA tool $35.00. I bought the Bentley manual locally because I'm a little impatient, (could have bought it on ebay for probably $90.00 with shipping but I couldn't wait so I paid $115.00).
So all done , about $160 or so.
While picking up my springs at the MINI dealer I noticed their labor rates are $49 to $149 / hour.
I was lucky and hope this info helps someone else."
http://www.mini2.com/forum/first-gen...2-misfire.html
Quote:
"I decided to pull off the intake rocker arms. I did and as I was peering closely at the cam I noticed 1 intake valve appeared to be sitting a little bit lower than the other 7. Well what do you know,it was the 3rd valve from the left, or #2 cylinder intake valve. I have one of those "See Snake" inspection camera/viewer made by Ridgid with the extra small head so I passed this veiwer down through the spark plug tube and did not see any shiny spots on top of the piston to indicate any collision between valve and piston. Yesterday I drive the hour up to the MINI dealer and bought 2 valve spring just in case I found a second bad one. This morning I installed the valve spring and I just got back from my test drive and all is well again. No more codes, no more misfires, and everything is great again.
I really appreciate anyone's interest in this thread and especially appreciate anyone that wrote me with insights or advice.I hope my efforts will save someone some of the frustration I have experienced in the past 3 weeks.
The valve springs are about $9.00 ea. I bought a valve spring compressor at NAPA because the one you rent at Autozone I could not get to work because the jaws that hook on the bottom of the spring are not staggered to squarely grab spiraled spring. NAPA tool $35.00. I bought the Bentley manual locally because I'm a little impatient, (could have bought it on ebay for probably $90.00 with shipping but I couldn't wait so I paid $115.00).
So all done , about $160 or so.
While picking up my springs at the MINI dealer I noticed their labor rates are $49 to $149 / hour.
I was lucky and hope this info helps someone else."
#9
03-11-2012, 09:54 AM
Problem is fixed!
I feel like i have been talking to myself for this whole thread - but its ok... I hope it help-some one who runs into the same problems
A few notes:
- with cylinder @ TDC the valved can NOT fall into the cylinder. So proceed with confidence!
- check fro tdc by sticking something in through the sparkplug hole.
- when working on these valves, there are a number of holes for the oil to flow through. make sure u plug these with papertowel, it would SUCK to drop anyhting down them.
- I did this job without a compressor, and without using string. it took me Hours to get the colar on the vavle.
- before I started this job i had read that a pen magnet is a must. thank g-d i bought it! let me repeat what I read - you NEED to buy a pen magnet. I almost wish i had two pen magnets!
this is the exact tool i used. It is very similar to the one mini uses. (i saw the mini one @ the dealership)
I had to modify this tool. i bent in the silver part. i also took off the "t" section that is heldinplace with the c clip. (if you buy the tool you will see what i mean.) i bought the tool @ hrbor freight for $15. also after you have the spring compressed, you will need to move it within the clamp by lveveraging it with a screw driver. this buys you an extra little space that it necessary to proceed.
here is the dealership one
I attempted this job intending to do the strng method. But - i could not get the string into there... and I did not have a compressor here. I was able to complete this job by holeding the valve in place witht he magnet. aligning those coloars wat a B1tch!!!
Also, my springs were broken in 3 pieces. When I assembled the springs, i saw that that a tiny piece was missing.. i then ran my magnet around and caught the piece in the pools of oil. I was very lucky. you should do the same.
look at how the spring wore down the spark plug pipe
re-assembled broken spring (top)
look @ the piece of spring that was broken off in the oil. good thing i looked for it....
this is my tool and my spring. grip it as high up on the spring as possible.
this is an orange colar holding the "tapit" onto the rocker. i figured that evn though it was broken it would still hold the thing inplace.
not sure if this was the right decision...
and success - this is the highest compression!!
good luck guys!!!
I feel like i have been talking to myself for this whole thread - but its ok... I hope it help-some one who runs into the same problems
A few notes:
- with cylinder @ TDC the valved can NOT fall into the cylinder. So proceed with confidence!
- check fro tdc by sticking something in through the sparkplug hole.
- when working on these valves, there are a number of holes for the oil to flow through. make sure u plug these with papertowel, it would SUCK to drop anyhting down them.
- I did this job without a compressor, and without using string. it took me Hours to get the colar on the vavle.
- before I started this job i had read that a pen magnet is a must. thank g-d i bought it! let me repeat what I read - you NEED to buy a pen magnet. I almost wish i had two pen magnets!
this is the exact tool i used. It is very similar to the one mini uses. (i saw the mini one @ the dealership)
I had to modify this tool. i bent in the silver part. i also took off the "t" section that is heldinplace with the c clip. (if you buy the tool you will see what i mean.) i bought the tool @ hrbor freight for $15. also after you have the spring compressed, you will need to move it within the clamp by lveveraging it with a screw driver. this buys you an extra little space that it necessary to proceed.
here is the dealership one
I attempted this job intending to do the strng method. But - i could not get the string into there... and I did not have a compressor here. I was able to complete this job by holeding the valve in place witht he magnet. aligning those coloars wat a B1tch!!!
Also, my springs were broken in 3 pieces. When I assembled the springs, i saw that that a tiny piece was missing.. i then ran my magnet around and caught the piece in the pools of oil. I was very lucky. you should do the same.
look at how the spring wore down the spark plug pipe
re-assembled broken spring (top)
look @ the piece of spring that was broken off in the oil. good thing i looked for it....
this is my tool and my spring. grip it as high up on the spring as possible.
this is an orange colar holding the "tapit" onto the rocker. i figured that evn though it was broken it would still hold the thing inplace.
not sure if this was the right decision...
and success - this is the highest compression!!
good luck guys!!!
Last edited by vr4; 03-11-2012 at 10:05 AM.
#11
11-09-2018, 10:02 AM
May be it is me being a n00b. I failed to see that you posted any fotos in this thread. You posted URLs may be. If that are not fotos or photos you indeed posted, if I mistaken I am sorry.
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