Drivetrain Head Swap
Head Swap
OK, I am swapping out my MCS head for an upgraded RMW modified version. I am on the verge of pulling the OEM head off and am on page 113-34 in the Bentley manual, where it sez I need BMW special tool 11 8 250 to loosen the camshaft sproket bolt.
1. Do I really need to get one of these things or is there an established workaround?
2. Also, once you remove the chain from the camshaft sproket, how do you secure the timing chain to prevent it from dropping down AND ultimately get the head off.
3. Is it typical to remove the intake manifold with the head? I was able to get all of the nuts off the intake, but no way to actually remove the intake while the head is still installed as the SC horn prevents intake removal, just can't get the intake to slide off the first stud in the front of the engine, it hits the SC horn.
4. Last one, at least for now. Once the tensioner plunger is squeezed into the retracted position and re-installed, what is the special BMW pry bar thingie 33 2 140 ? And how exactly do you release the chain rensioner plunger? This seems to be relatively glossed-over on page 113-38 in Bentley.
Need help please please.............
1. Do I really need to get one of these things or is there an established workaround?
2. Also, once you remove the chain from the camshaft sproket, how do you secure the timing chain to prevent it from dropping down AND ultimately get the head off.
3. Is it typical to remove the intake manifold with the head? I was able to get all of the nuts off the intake, but no way to actually remove the intake while the head is still installed as the SC horn prevents intake removal, just can't get the intake to slide off the first stud in the front of the engine, it hits the SC horn.
4. Last one, at least for now. Once the tensioner plunger is squeezed into the retracted position and re-installed, what is the special BMW pry bar thingie 33 2 140 ? And how exactly do you release the chain rensioner plunger? This seems to be relatively glossed-over on page 113-38 in Bentley.
Need help please please.............
The cam sprocket special tool would be nice but you don't need it. I only swapped a camshaft and did it(with the advice of NAMers and Bentley Manual) by chalking wheels with parking brake on and with 6th gear selected. I used a 5/6" by 4" bolt through the aft hole in cam sprocket too. It was taped up and chunks of taped up plywood were placed between the bolt and the head while undoing and torquing up the cam sprocket bolt. I think it's only 59 ft-lbs so it's not too tight.
I tried to release the plunger with a few pry bars but I don't think it released. I risked it and fired it up hoping oil pressure would release if for me! It worked!
I can't really help you with the rest, but I would think you should be able to get the SC horns off while the car is in service mode. There should be lots of NAMers here to help you with that!
Enjoy your new cylinder head!
Jeremy
My cam sprocket special tool, minus wood. haha
Zap strap holding timing chain for me.
Tensioner plunger.
I tried to release the plunger with a few pry bars but I don't think it released. I risked it and fired it up hoping oil pressure would release if for me! It worked!
I can't really help you with the rest, but I would think you should be able to get the SC horns off while the car is in service mode. There should be lots of NAMers here to help you with that!
Enjoy your new cylinder head!
Jeremy
My cam sprocket special tool, minus wood. haha
Zap strap holding timing chain for me.
Tensioner plunger.
Hey Jeremy:
Now that is what I call as established workaround. Thanks, and that method will work just fine.
I am actually going all the way with the head, cam, and shorty header. Since the local shop wanted $2K, I bought a Bentley manual.
According to the shop, replacing the head is a 20 hour job. Whoa! While I am sure it will not take me that long, this is definitely is a significant project. It does always seem to go back together much quicker.
Well, glad to hear you had good luck with the chain tensioner plunger release, but I do not know what to think of this. It is kind of important to have the proper tension on the timing chain.
Thanks for the info..........
Now that is what I call as established workaround.
Thanks, and that method will work just fine.I am actually going all the way with the head, cam, and shorty header. Since the local shop wanted $2K, I bought a Bentley manual.
According to the shop, replacing the head is a 20 hour job. Whoa! While I am sure it will not take me that long, this is definitely is a significant project. It does always seem to go back together much quicker.Well, glad to hear you had good luck with the chain tensioner plunger release, but I do not know what to think of this. It is kind of important to have the proper tension on the timing chain.
Thanks for the info..........
Last edited by mini_racer; Aug 17, 2008 at 10:06 PM.
If you can borrow the tools from you nearest MINI service center do that for sure. The MINI service center said I could borrow cam sprocket tool if I needed it but I opted to try it without. The one mechanic did say that one of his snap-on pry bars worked well to tension up the timing chain. Good luck!
Jeremy
Jeremy
Unfortunately, my local MINI service center is 75 mi. away. I do have a local shop that works on MINIs and I planned to try to sweet talk them into a rental if I get stuck and need a special tool I can't work around.
Snap-on pry bars, hmmm good tip, thanks I should be able to find those locally. A quick search indicates that some of them are not very expensive, I wonder which one is the proper one as they have many and I realize you may not have those details. I'll have to look at it, maybe I can use a long screwdriver wrapped in electrical tape or something similar, something will work.
Snap-on pry bars, hmmm good tip, thanks I should be able to find those locally. A quick search indicates that some of them are not very expensive, I wonder which one is the proper one as they have many and I realize you may not have those details. I'll have to look at it, maybe I can use a long screwdriver wrapped in electrical tape or something similar, something will work.
And yes, I will report back once I am rolling again. As painful as it is to have my can in a billion pieces right now, it will soon all be worth it.
I am looking forward to that day, too bad it is not tomorrow, I need another weekend day to finish this thing up.
I am looking forward to that day, too bad it is not tomorrow, I need another weekend day to finish this thing up.
Last edited by mini_racer; Aug 17, 2008 at 08:58 PM.
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3rd Gear
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 190
Likes: 0
From: Maumelle, Arkansas
I just got through doing the same thing, plus pulley and cat-back. Special tool isn't necessary for the cam sprocket. I just used 2 flat tip screwdrivers to keep the pulley still. I used a piece of twine to hang the chain off the hood. Be sure to mark the chain for the tooth on the pulley that has the arrow. I had to pull the head up slightly to get the intake off the first stud on the head. And I couldn't get the tensioner to release so I just fired it up, and the oil pressure did it for me. Make sure you put your head bolts back in before you install the screws that hold the tensioner in. Otherwise, you'll be taking them back out. Also, don't hook the header up to the exhaust until you get the bolts caught in the head. It ain't fun trying to get things aligned on the head while fighting the exhaust. Ask me how I know. Another thing, it may look like the cooling system just keeps sucking up coolant when you first get it running. I bled the system, but I still had to top the bottle off 3 or 4 times before it stopped drinking.
2nd Gear
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 127
Likes: 0
Just something I found helpful when I did my head was once you position the mark on the cam gear, as per the bentley manual, use something to place a mark on you timing chain (white out works well) and a matching mark on your gear then if something should happen you can easily line things up again.
Yes, I went with the head/header/cam combo, and the 440s go in just before the tune, whenever that is. Tentatively scheduled for October. Oh, and the pulley I am running is the Madness 15%. It was a significant boost (pun intended ) over the JCW. However, I have been thinking about a 17%, but since I live in Austin and it gets so damn hot here I have been thinking twice about that option. For this adventure, I am just going to leave the 15% on and add a DT tensioner stop.
) over the JCW. However, I have been thinking about a 17%, but since I live in Austin and it gets so damn hot here I have been thinking twice about that option. For this adventure, I am just going to leave the 15% on and add a DT tensioner stop.
Last edited by mini_racer; Aug 18, 2008 at 06:18 AM.
I just got through doing the same thing, plus pulley and cat-back. Special tool isn't necessary for the cam sprocket. I just used 2 flat tip screwdrivers to keep the pulley still.
Exactly what did you do with those 2 flatblades? Through one of the holes in the sproket?
I used a piece of twine to hang the chain off the hood.
Ok, that sounds fine, but then you will need to take the head off, and you can't cause the twine is going through the head, I will need to get more hand to help.
Be sure to mark the chain for the tooth on the pulley that has the arrow.
Yes, I did that and a good reminder thanks, this is important.
I had to pull the head up slightly to get the intake off the first stud on the head.
Hmm, yes this will work, I just thought I would tak the whole thing off as a unit, not sure if that will work though until I get there, this is a viable option, thanks.
And I couldn't get the tensioner to release so I just fired it up, and the oil pressure did it for me.
Sounds scary, but if it works...........
Make sure you put your head bolts back in before you install the screws that hold the tensioner in. Otherwise, you'll be taking them back out. Also, don't hook the header up to the exhaust until you get the bolts caught in the head. It ain't fun trying to get things aligned on the head while fighting the exhaust. Ask me how I know.
I am not gonna ask, but I think I have a good guess.
Lessons learned hard.......... Thanks for helping me to avoid that one.
Another thing, it may look like the cooling system just keeps sucking up coolant when you first get it running. I bled the system, but I still had to top the bottle off 3 or 4 times before it stopped drinking.
Got it, thanks.
Also, did you take any compression readings when done? And of course, are you happy with the perf changes?
Exactly what did you do with those 2 flatblades? Through one of the holes in the sproket?
I used a piece of twine to hang the chain off the hood.
Ok, that sounds fine, but then you will need to take the head off, and you can't cause the twine is going through the head, I will need to get more hand to help.
Be sure to mark the chain for the tooth on the pulley that has the arrow.
Yes, I did that and a good reminder thanks, this is important.
I had to pull the head up slightly to get the intake off the first stud on the head.
Hmm, yes this will work, I just thought I would tak the whole thing off as a unit, not sure if that will work though until I get there, this is a viable option, thanks.
And I couldn't get the tensioner to release so I just fired it up, and the oil pressure did it for me.
Sounds scary, but if it works...........
Make sure you put your head bolts back in before you install the screws that hold the tensioner in. Otherwise, you'll be taking them back out. Also, don't hook the header up to the exhaust until you get the bolts caught in the head. It ain't fun trying to get things aligned on the head while fighting the exhaust. Ask me how I know.
I am not gonna ask, but I think I have a good guess.
Lessons learned hard.......... Thanks for helping me to avoid that one.Another thing, it may look like the cooling system just keeps sucking up coolant when you first get it running. I bled the system, but I still had to top the bottle off 3 or 4 times before it stopped drinking.
Got it, thanks.
Also, did you take any compression readings when done? And of course, are you happy with the perf changes?
Just something I found helpful when I did my head was once you position the mark on the cam gear, as per the bentley manual, use something to place a mark on you timing chain (white out works well) and a matching mark on your gear then if something should happen you can easily line things up again.
So, yes, that mark on the timing chain is critical. I cleaned the spot on the chain with a bit of acetone to be 100% sure, then used a little testors paint, then checked to be sure it was not gonna flake off. Maybe a little OCD, but better safe than sorry.
3rd Gear
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 190
Likes: 0
From: Maumelle, Arkansas
I did stick one of the screwdrivers thru a hole in the cam gear. Then laid another long one on the rail the valve cover mates to and the end on a machined ledge in behind the cam gear. The screwdriver going thru the gear then laid on top of the long screwdriver. That served to lock the gear in place (not perfectly, but it couldn't go far). The important factor is the arrow/chain relationship. I did need a hand when lifting the head off to help pass the twine thru while not releasing much tension on the chain. Then I just tied it back up. I didn't take a compression reading. It would be hard to get the gauge in the spark plug hole tightly. I guess the injector holes could be used if the fuel system were disabled. But I have no faith in the type of gauge that would be needed to do it that way. Compression shouldn't be affected unless there's a lot of cam overlap. Not much in the combustion chamber or piston is affected by the swap. As far as my impression of performance improvement, there really isn't much. But I understand why. The head, cam, header and exhaust system simply increase the engine's ability to flow air/gases through it. So as a result the supercharger, which can only pump a finite amount of air, can't build as much boost anymore, since boost is simply a result of the engine's inability to allow the air the supercharger pumps to pass through. The air then backs up, building pressure (boost). I can see this since I have a ScanGauge, and I watch the MAP reading. The highest I've seen on the MAP is 22 or 23 PSI, which is 8 or 9 pounds above atmospheric (14.7PSI average). I would bet a stock engine sees a few PSI more. So the combination of less boost (even though I get some of that back with the 17% pulley) and the fact we still have stock injectors being directed by stock fuel maps and an ignition system still being directed by stock timing maps, results in not a heckuva lot of improvement without the bigger injectors and the tune. The injectors and tune will get the wow, I expect. And a supercharger that can pump more air, developing more boost as a result, wouldn't suck, either.
Oh, I almost forgot. Don't torque your rocker shafts until you have the cam gear on the end of the cam. If you torque them, and you have to roll the cam to get the gear on the little pin in the cam, you'll be fighting the valve springs. So leave the rockers float till the gear is on.
Best of luck on the swap! I'll probably see you in October.
Oh, I almost forgot. Don't torque your rocker shafts until you have the cam gear on the end of the cam. If you torque them, and you have to roll the cam to get the gear on the little pin in the cam, you'll be fighting the valve springs. So leave the rockers float till the gear is on.
Best of luck on the swap! I'll probably see you in October.
I did stick one of the screwdrivers thru a hole in the cam gear. Then laid another long one on the rail the valve cover mates to and the end on a machined ledge in behind the cam gear. The screwdriver going thru the gear then laid on top of the long screwdriver. That served to lock the gear in place (not perfectly, but it couldn't go far). The important factor is the arrow/chain relationship. I did need a hand when lifting the head off to help pass the twine thru while not releasing much tension on the chain. Then I just tied it back up.
This was what I was thinking as well, just need another hand.
I didn't take a compression reading. It would be hard to get the gauge in the spark plug hole tightly.
Definitely this is difficult, I am sure there is a special tool for this purpose
I guess the injector holes could be used if the fuel system were disabled. But I have no faith in the type of gauge that would be needed to do it that way. Compression shouldn't be affected unless there's a lot of cam overlap.
Agreed, really just a check of the head gasket.
Not much in the combustion chamber or piston is affected by the swap. As far as my impression of performance improvement, there really isn't much.
I am certainly expecting something.
But I understand why. The head, cam, header and exhaust system simply increase the engine's ability to flow air/gases through it. So as a result the supercharger, which can only pump a finite amount of air, can't build as much boost anymore, since boost is simply a result of the engine's inability to allow the air the supercharger pumps to pass through. The air then backs up, building pressure (boost). I can see this since I have a ScanGauge, and I watch the MAP reading. The highest I've seen on the MAP is 22 or 23 PSI, which is 8 or 9 pounds above atmospheric (14.7PSI average). I would bet a stock engine sees a few PSI more. So the combination of less boost (even though I get some of that back with the 17% pulley) and the fact we still have stock injectors being directed by stock fuel maps and an ignition system still being directed by stock timing maps, results in not a heckuva lot of improvement without the bigger injectors and the tune. The injectors and tune will get the wow, I expect. And a supercharger that can pump more air, developing more boost as a result, wouldn't suck, either.
Well, I am installing this trio on my JCW car, which is just a little different. I will let you know what I can feel. I have the 380s in now, and will install the 440s right before the tune. Of course, the tune is required to tie everything together and see the real benefit (i.e. Wow)
Oh, I almost forgot. Don't torque your rocker shafts until you have the cam gear on the end of the cam. If you torque them, and you have to roll the cam to get the gear on the little pin in the cam, you'll be fighting the valve springs. So leave the rockers float till the gear is on.
This is great advice, thanks for this tidbit!
Best of luck on the swap! I'll probably see you in October.
This was what I was thinking as well, just need another hand.
I didn't take a compression reading. It would be hard to get the gauge in the spark plug hole tightly.
Definitely this is difficult, I am sure there is a special tool for this purpose
I guess the injector holes could be used if the fuel system were disabled. But I have no faith in the type of gauge that would be needed to do it that way. Compression shouldn't be affected unless there's a lot of cam overlap.
Agreed, really just a check of the head gasket.
Not much in the combustion chamber or piston is affected by the swap. As far as my impression of performance improvement, there really isn't much.
I am certainly expecting something.
But I understand why. The head, cam, header and exhaust system simply increase the engine's ability to flow air/gases through it. So as a result the supercharger, which can only pump a finite amount of air, can't build as much boost anymore, since boost is simply a result of the engine's inability to allow the air the supercharger pumps to pass through. The air then backs up, building pressure (boost). I can see this since I have a ScanGauge, and I watch the MAP reading. The highest I've seen on the MAP is 22 or 23 PSI, which is 8 or 9 pounds above atmospheric (14.7PSI average). I would bet a stock engine sees a few PSI more. So the combination of less boost (even though I get some of that back with the 17% pulley) and the fact we still have stock injectors being directed by stock fuel maps and an ignition system still being directed by stock timing maps, results in not a heckuva lot of improvement without the bigger injectors and the tune. The injectors and tune will get the wow, I expect. And a supercharger that can pump more air, developing more boost as a result, wouldn't suck, either.
Well, I am installing this trio on my JCW car, which is just a little different. I will let you know what I can feel. I have the 380s in now, and will install the 440s right before the tune. Of course, the tune is required to tie everything together and see the real benefit (i.e. Wow)
Oh, I almost forgot. Don't torque your rocker shafts until you have the cam gear on the end of the cam. If you torque them, and you have to roll the cam to get the gear on the little pin in the cam, you'll be fighting the valve springs. So leave the rockers float till the gear is on.
This is great advice, thanks for this tidbit!
Best of luck on the swap! I'll probably see you in October.
Terry
Piston top cleaning
Ok, finally at the point where the ARP studs and new head is going in.
The block surface has been prepped and ready for the new gasket/head. However, the tops of the pistons have varying level of carbon build up on them.
Exactly how much of that should I worry about cleaning before it all gets put back together? Also, what would be a proper cleaaning method, some solvent and a plastic scraper?
The block surface has been prepped and ready for the new gasket/head. However, the tops of the pistons have varying level of carbon build up on them.
Exactly how much of that should I worry about cleaning before it all gets put back together? Also, what would be a proper cleaaning method, some solvent and a plastic scraper?
I would tape up coolant/oil passages and break out plastic scraper with a few drops of solvent/petrol. You could try light steel wool or wire brushing too.
Ahhh de-coking is gooooooooooood!
Jeremy
Ahhh de-coking is gooooooooooood!
Jeremy
I agree, and ended up using some brake cleaner on some rags and the plastic scrapers. While not perfect, it is much much better than before, and I guess that is what matters. Cleaner is always better!
I think I will slather a bit of oil on the cylinder walls before the head goes on just to be sure they are not too clean.
Looking at that much carbon with only 13K miles makes me think I was running on the rich side. I need a tune!
Maybe also need to invest in a gauge to at least see what is happening.
I think I will slather a bit of oil on the cylinder walls before the head goes on just to be sure they are not too clean.
Looking at that much carbon with only 13K miles makes me think I was running on the rich side. I need a tune!
Maybe also need to invest in a gauge to at least see what is happening.
Carbon build up is inevitable in public road going usage....
.
You are rotating the crank to bring each piston to TDC before you clean right? It's still a great idea to lightly coat the cylinder walls with oil. Good luck with the head install the rest of the way.
Jeremy
. You are rotating the crank to bring each piston to TDC before you clean right? It's still a great idea to lightly coat the cylinder walls with oil. Good luck with the head install the rest of the way.
Jeremy
