Drivetrain Pulley install going bad
it will come off, it takes a lot more force than expected so just keep torqueing the puller. Also if you have a propane torch or something similar to heat the pulley that will help. With that kind of puller you will bend the stock pulley so dont worry to much
so,i got to the point where the stupid puller doesnt want to tighten any more... idk what to do. I keep reversing and tightening hoping it will break lose. But its not budging. but i will keep trying hopefully it does something
If that's the case, then put a socket(or suitable spacer) in between the lead screw and the bolt you have screwed into the supercharger shaft.
I wouldn't heat the pulley, the heat will transfer to the shaft and then to the seal. You will then have bigger problems than not being able to get the pulley off.
Spray some PB Blaster all around the areas where the pulley contacts the shaft front and back.
Do not remove or loosen the puller, leave the tension on it.
The threads on the puller look dry. Try adding grease or anti-seize to them. Under high tension, the friction gets really bad and makes it more difficult to turn. I had the same problem where I nearly broke the bolt getting the pulley off. I put some anti-seize on and it came off with a lot less effort then I put on before.
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Like mentioned...lube up the threads and shoot the pulley....if it wont tighten anymore, loosen it up and shoot it again....try again...if not, then get the drill out and drill it to the point it breaks, or use a cutoff tool....
hi, i actually whipped out the dremel and started cutting, but I think im using the wrong bit, because the things not falling apart still... I cut one line on each side, but i just cant reach the back portion without messing things up. Can you recommend a bit for my dremel? thanks
Sorry to see this. And your troubles. These are great pictures but I would use them as how NOT to remove the SC pulley. The ribs and the area this type of puller used will not get a good enough torque on the center portion of the pulley which is where you want to be. At this point it is clear that you strip a part of the threads on the puller. Cutting it off with we dermal is serious last resort.
Try the PB Blaster and heating as mention by an earlier post. Don't feel bad you are not the first to do the pulley removal this way and will not be the last.
Good luck
Try the PB Blaster and heating as mention by an earlier post. Don't feel bad you are not the first to do the pulley removal this way and will not be the last.
Good luck
I can't see the pics from here (red x on my screen) but it sounds like you're doing the crank pulley, right?
It took me 8 hours to get mine off w/a variety of 3-arm pullers, etc. I eventually had to cut mine off!
I'll post pics to my gallery as soon as I get a chance (they're in a thread on the Europe forum). WHatever you do once you get it off DO NOT try to make it easier to get the new/aftermarket one on there w/some lube. Eventually the pulley will spin on the shaft and start to back the bolt out; misaligning/shredding the belt (don't ask how I learned this).
I can't emphasize enough how important it is to use the right tool for the job... After shredding my belt and towing my car home I couldn't get the new pulley off either. Since I'd already broken all my other pullers I finally got the factory BMW tool and guess what...the pulley popped right off w/no effort at all. It's a really slick setup but don't forget to get the thread protector (bolt) that goes into the crankshaft...it's a separate part # than the 2-piece puller itself. The thread protector also has a nice concave recess for teh ball bearing tip of the puller's bolt to ride in. The puller itself is a workk of machined steel art. Well worth the $80 or so that I paid for it.
I did bake the new pulley for 20 min or so at 200 degrees in my oven to ease the re-installation but it went easy as pie w/a piece of 12mm (IIRC) threaded rod and some grease-covered washers (to keep from marring the finish on the pulley)and a couple of 12mm nuts.
Don't forget to use Locktite RED (not blue) on the threads of teh crank bolt...I also highly recommend a new crank bolt after seating the pulley w/the threaded rod and somewashers/bolts. At the very least, use the old crank bolt to seat the pulley then use a new one w/Locktite for the final torque.
BTW, I also bought the tool to hold the pulley in place while torqueing the crank bolt in place. It looks like a giant steel lollipop w/an offset head that has a hole in the middle and 3 little threaded holes around the perimeter to bolt to the pulley.
Remember...the right tool for the job: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...d.php?t=135344
and: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...d.php?t=135612
And pics of the painful original removal on page 5 (embedded link) in this thread (last page talks about my experience w/the grease on the crank nose too): https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...=123357&page=5
It took me 8 hours to get mine off w/a variety of 3-arm pullers, etc. I eventually had to cut mine off!
I'll post pics to my gallery as soon as I get a chance (they're in a thread on the Europe forum). WHatever you do once you get it off DO NOT try to make it easier to get the new/aftermarket one on there w/some lube. Eventually the pulley will spin on the shaft and start to back the bolt out; misaligning/shredding the belt (don't ask how I learned this).I can't emphasize enough how important it is to use the right tool for the job... After shredding my belt and towing my car home I couldn't get the new pulley off either. Since I'd already broken all my other pullers I finally got the factory BMW tool and guess what...the pulley popped right off w/no effort at all. It's a really slick setup but don't forget to get the thread protector (bolt) that goes into the crankshaft...it's a separate part # than the 2-piece puller itself. The thread protector also has a nice concave recess for teh ball bearing tip of the puller's bolt to ride in. The puller itself is a workk of machined steel art. Well worth the $80 or so that I paid for it.
I did bake the new pulley for 20 min or so at 200 degrees in my oven to ease the re-installation but it went easy as pie w/a piece of 12mm (IIRC) threaded rod and some grease-covered washers (to keep from marring the finish on the pulley)and a couple of 12mm nuts.
Don't forget to use Locktite RED (not blue) on the threads of teh crank bolt...I also highly recommend a new crank bolt after seating the pulley w/the threaded rod and somewashers/bolts. At the very least, use the old crank bolt to seat the pulley then use a new one w/Locktite for the final torque.
BTW, I also bought the tool to hold the pulley in place while torqueing the crank bolt in place. It looks like a giant steel lollipop w/an offset head that has a hole in the middle and 3 little threaded holes around the perimeter to bolt to the pulley.
Remember...the right tool for the job: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...d.php?t=135344
and: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...d.php?t=135612
And pics of the painful original removal on page 5 (embedded link) in this thread (last page talks about my experience w/the grease on the crank nose too): https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...=123357&page=5
Last edited by 91Eunos; Aug 6, 2008 at 11:14 PM.
ya, its okay, im trying not to feel bad. Just want to put the new one in and be worry free because I really miss the mini :( I already started butchering the pulley, just need someone to help me wit the right dremel tool
Also its the supercharger pulley
Also its the supercharger pulley
bro, just get 2 metal pipes or one if you dont need to hold the puller in place and put it on the end of your wrench or wrenches. it will give you lots of leverage and it give you all the torque you need to get the pulley off (used this method for 2 pulley installs)
I didn't use a dremel...I used a big-a** cutoff wheel! Be careful. I also had to use a 3-foot prybar after cutting. don't be alarmed if you see smoke when cutting; the stock pulley is also a dampner w/a rubber center.
...or you could order the BMW parts, and pull it off w/almost no effort. Trust me, it's worth the peace of mind. If you're in a club maybe everyone can pitch in for the tools.
Just my $.02 after going through your pain.
...or you could order the BMW parts, and pull it off w/almost no effort. Trust me, it's worth the peace of mind. If you're in a club maybe everyone can pitch in for the tools.
Just my $.02 after going through your pain.
D'oh, just saw your note re: it being the supercharger pulley...
Dude, get the Alta or M7 tool... Cheap and easy. Every club should have one...and many vendors on NAM rent them out.
Dude, get the Alta or M7 tool... Cheap and easy. Every club should have one...and many vendors on NAM rent them out.
Last edited by 91Eunos; Aug 7, 2008 at 12:46 AM.
I have heard that some take the entire super charger off and mount it on a bench so they have ample clearance to get at the pulley.
I did it with removal tool that Alta had supplied. After I figured out how to use the tool right, it came of easily.
I did it with removal tool that Alta had supplied. After I figured out how to use the tool right, it came of easily.
That's the way mine was done. Even so, I was surprised at how much force it took to get the pulley off. We also heated it up a bit. That was 18k miles ago and no problems whatsoever.
have a feeling a ruined the supercharger... I used the pulley puller 3 jaw type from sears, started getting harder to get tighter and tighter, then boom, something popped out, and then i saw the hole shaft come out a bit :( really bad week, the shaft is now really hard to spin. Don't know what to do now
sell the car and start over..
I would say the best thing to do now would be to take the SC out. Take it on a bench and really look at it. Maybe you did something that can be fixed.. Also a good time to re-fill the oil and check your water pump gears.
I would say the best thing to do now would be to take the SC out. Take it on a bench and really look at it. Maybe you did something that can be fixed.. Also a good time to re-fill the oil and check your water pump gears.






