well since im sure there are some of you who are like i am and dont have warranty on your mini, and have to or will have to replace your leaking motor mount here is an easy how to, took me about 25 mins to do

Items needed
16mm socket
18mm socket
13mm socket
12" long extensions (i used 3/8 sockets)
E12 star socket (7.99 at autozone in kit)
jack stand
stock jack ( if lowered like me)
hydraulic jack
chunk of wood

please refere to this picture when said to do so



1. jack up car on passenger side, just high enough to get the jack stand under on its lowest level

2. remove passenger front wheel

3.refer to picture and remove bolt number 1 in red with a 18mm socket

4.take your hydraulic jack with the piece of wood on top and stick in the rear passenger side of the motor and raise it about 2" once it starts to come off motor mount

5.refereing to the picture take the 13mm socket and remove bolt number 2 in yellow this is the ground

6.refere to the picture take the 16mm socket and remove bolts marked #3 in blue and raise the entire piece out

7. from the bottom of the car take the E12 socket and remove the hex head screw from as shown in picture below, it is hard but once its loosened it will come out easily

8.refer to the picture at the top and remove bolt #4 in pink/purple


then replace with new and follow instruction directly in reverse and this will replace your leaking hydraulic motor mount


thanks
chris

 

Ive been trying to make the no1 bolt fitting. so i hit it with a chunk of wood and a hammer till the motor drops on works pretty well i thought.
Just a tip i thought might come in handy.

 

Bravo, I trust this will become a sticky. I need to replace mine soon.

 

you can also move the motor while its on the jack i did it with the motor hot wich sucks, but i put the my gloves on grabbed the supercharger horn and was able to move the engine around enough the make it fit

 

Nice write-up!

Or you can do what I did: talk yourself (and the car's owner) into just doing a pulley swap since this get's you 1/2 way there...

 

pulley is already done, the mount was just leaking alllllllll over the place its even on the inside of my wheel

 

alil info....you DO NOT have to unbolt the bracket or ground strap.

just unbolt the bolt on the strut tower, upper mount, and lower inverted torx and your good to slide it out once you lift the motor alil.


im still amazed with these leaking mounts being i beat the ish outta my car and never lost one like that.

 

I did try to yank on it with the intake horn my was just a pita i guess.

 

can anyone tell me where to find that dogbone mount i seen on ebay which isnt there anymore.

 

http://www.vipcustomparts.com/minicooperparts.htm

 

i removed the whole mount. it was easier and you dont have to take the wheel off. just lift the plastic liner right under the torx bolt. If you do remove the ground strap, BE VERY CAREFUL!! My ground mount on the block just broke right off when i was trying to loosen it. I had to dremmel out the eye of the mount and put a couple of washers on the #1 bolt to make a good ground.

p.s. just noticed that my 02 r53 has the mount for the upper ground on the block and not the engine mount. huh...wonder why they changed it?

 

the 02 mount is totally different than the 04+ mcs

 

Thanks for the write-up and photos. Following a combination of these instructions and those in another post https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...d.php?t=112646, I was able to do the job without jacking up the car, removing the front wheel, or undoing any wheel liner fasteners. The car is a 2005 MCS with stock suspension.

I also removed the ground wire from the motor mount bracket instead of from the body rail. When I undid the star bolt underneath the car, some browish watery liquid came out. I don't know if the came from inside the motor mount, or from inside the frame rail, and it was thin, not thick and gooey.

It took me about an hour in the garage, including clean up. But, I probably spent more time than that reading here about how to do it, and getting the part and a couple of sockets. Part was $98 + tax U.S. at a dealer in California. The old part was labeled 6763259, new part 6778610, though they looked identical except for the part number stamped on them.

 

I have a 2004 R53 and had started to experience a vibration between 2200 and 3000 rpm. It was together with a burning rubber smell. The car has 130,000 and I just installed new struts, driveshafts and strut mounts. The wheel bearings, ball joints and tie rods were all replaced earlier and were in good shape.

With the help of this great site I began looking at the crank pulley. On visual inspection it was shedding rubber and delaminating. I replaced it with an ATI unit from Way Motor Works. The vibration problem cleared up some.

I then checked the motor mounts. The lower mount was tearing pretty badly. That was a real easy fix with all the help from here and also Pelican Parts.

The top mount was next and everything came apart easily except for the torx bolt holding the passenger motor mount in place. Nothing would budge the bolt loose.

Seeing as I purchased a new torx bolt with the motor mount I used a dremel tool to cut the old bolt head off. After the bolt head was cut off it slid right out no problems.

Vibration is now gone.

This site is such a great place. Thanks to everyone for sharing all of the how too posts.

Thanks also to all of the great vendors who reach out and help. Especially ECS Tuning, Way Motor Works and Pelican Parts.

 

You are welcome Fastzombie:

Thread is right here.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...placement.html