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Drivetrain Stall at idle

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Old May 6, 2008 | 07:41 PM
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Stall at idle

Installed new DT bypass valve. In doing so one of the boots on IC must have shifted (or it was screwed up) drove a while with it on highway, until I came to a stop and noticed the engine idling at ~2k and somewhat erratic.

Next day, inspected IC found leak, fixed it. Now the car stalls at idle. Reset the ECU a number of times drove it etc. No difference. Engine runs perfect as long as you are slightly on the pedal. Reset the ECU a bunch of times and drove it, the same. The second you let off the gas, it stalls.

Pulled the IC again, double checked vacuum connections. Same.

I notice this hose and coupling has a loose black plastic seal thing that will not snap back in. Is this normal? See picture




Also there is an SES light on. I will buy a scanner tomorrow check that out.

Until then, any ideas?
 
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Old May 6, 2008 | 08:43 PM
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That is the fuel line to the fuel pressure regulator. You need to push the plastic section in to release the coupler. It looks okay to me and if it is not leaking fuel, then it is okay.
 
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Old May 6, 2008 | 08:54 PM
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COR BLMY
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Look just under the regulator ... it is in your photo ... it has a hose & may be loose.
are you also running VGS ?
I really like the DT BPV but just be sure all hoses and even those you didnt touch are good..
Are you throwing a code (CEL) ?
 
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Old May 7, 2008 | 03:54 AM
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Originally Posted by COR BLMY
Look just under the regulator ... it is in your photo ... it has a hose & may be loose.
are you also running VGS ?
I really like the DT BPV but just be sure all hoses and even those you didnt touch are good..
Are you throwing a code (CEL) ?
The only dash light is the SES. I was running VGS, but uninstalled it with DT BPV.

I checked the hose under the fuel regulator, it was attached.
 
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Old May 7, 2008 | 06:15 AM
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this will sort it for you, a mate might be handy to help as well as a "driver"
loosen clamps to boots on intercooler, allowing a little to air to escape [ on exit side ]
re-fix whilst under a little boost and you should be fine
sorry cant explain the science behind it but worked for me
found this trick out after experiencing same problem
 

Last edited by blue al; May 7, 2008 at 06:17 AM.
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Old May 7, 2008 | 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by blue al
this will sort it for you, a mate might be handy to help as well as a "driver"
loosen clamps to boots on intercooler, allowing a little to air to escape [ on exit side ]
re-fix whilst under a little boost and you should be fine
sorry cant explain the science behind it but worked for me
found this trick out after experiencing same problem
hmmmm interesting and a simple thing to try....except my co-pilot is scarred of my car accelerator....I'll find something to safely hold it in just a touch and see if it works.
 
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Old May 7, 2008 | 07:15 PM
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Invested in OBDII

I had an SES light and decided to invest in a reader. Got this.

P0507-Idle air control system RPM higher than expected
P0107-Manifold pressure/barometric pressure circuit low input
P1237 I wrote this down wrong (it was dark by flashlight) may have been..... P0137-?
P1107-Manifold air pressure sensor too low at idle engine running
P0138-o2 sensor circuit high voltage (bank 1 sensor 2)

Then I erased them, and have no SES light. Started car. same stall, no more SES light when running.

I also pulled the IC out and double checked all connections, blew air through the vacuum hose for the pressure regulator to make sure it is not obstructed. No change.

The o2 sensor code is curious?!?
 
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Old May 7, 2008 | 08:39 PM
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It looks like its your MAP sensors. I had 3 of the same codes on my car just 2 weeks ago.
 
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Old May 8, 2008 | 03:51 PM
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It works!

Idle is back to working!!!!

I did two things different last night.

1. I unplugged the battery.
2. Removed codes from system (OBDII).

It felt like it almost hesitated to idle this morning, reset ecu a couple times, went to work. Left work, went to start and it almost idled, reset ecu a couple times, and it was idling back and forth for several minutes 500-1100rpm and then it steadied at 1100 and then slowed down to ~800 and is perfect. Car runs perfect!

I am pretty certain unplugging the battery did it.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2008 | 05:45 AM
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that makes no sense in my eyes being your ecu has memory even when the battery is disconnected or dead. removing both cables and touching them together resets the ecu besides doing it thru the speedometer.

i have no CEL myself but after getting a tune my idle is erract when i stop and just recently with the hot weather over here i started using my a/c so when i come to a stop she stalls intermitten. im still trying to figure this out
 
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Old Jun 10, 2008 | 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by 1FSTMINI
i have no CEL myself but after getting a tune my idle is erract when i stop and just recently with the hot weather over here i started using my a/c so when i come to a stop she stalls intermitten. im still trying to figure this out
Kelli's was doing the same thing. Danny raised the idle and it has been fine since. Go see him and it only takes about five minutes to do.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2008 | 01:11 PM
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raising the idle wont stop the erract portion and im in NY.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2008 | 05:05 PM
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Sorry I was thinking you were CFMini. Her idle was raised and that fixed it. It was erratic because it was barely hanging on and the AC would kill it. After it was raised, it was good to go.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2008 | 07:27 PM
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my idle is erract intermitten without the ac on. ill come to a stop and the idle would goto to normal and then bounce to like 1600 and then back down
 
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Old Jun 10, 2008 | 08:36 PM
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i have the DT BPV and i noticed at first it would hesitate...but after ive had the BPV on for awhile i think it broke in because it runs like a champ now...i think since its a stiffer set up than stock it takes a bit of getting used to
 
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