Has anyone used a pressure bleeder, such as those made by Motive to bleed the brakes on the MINI? If so, would you recommend this to someone? Any other feedback regarding pressure bleeders?

Thanks in advance for any responses.

Len

 

i have used alot of brake pressure bleeders, but all of the ones i have used look like tiny kegs on wheels. I would recommend them, i have never had any issue with them. The style however i was using needs it rubber seal replaced from time to time due to people leaving pressure in it and developing a leak. other than that pretty trouble free.
Most good pressure bleeders are a bit pricey and i cant see spending that kind of loot unless you track all the time or plan to do multiple cars since the brakes only need flushed every 2 years ( recommended ) from production date.

 

I use the the Motive Products brake bleeder, works great. The instructions for use are printed on the bleeder thus obviating the need to keep an instruction page, neat. The one I received had no gasket on the brake reservoir attachment end, I had to go down to the hardware store to get one. Check for this or you could make a mess. I alternately use ATe Blue and Gold fluid to make sure that I have thoroughly bled the brakes.
You will need a bleeder bottle to catch the fluid while you proceed. Denatured alcohol will come in handy when it comes time to clean the pressure bleeder, hoses and bleeder bottle, 1 quart will do.

 

I also use the Motive PowerBleeder and it's very effective and makes the bleeding a joy : 45min and it's done !!
It's really worth it !!

 

hey . i need to bleed my system bad . i got air in there when flushing . i'm liking the price of the 0250 kit . is this adaptable to the mini no problem ?

 

One hint on using the pressure bleeder........after pumping up the bleeder and attaching it to the res., open the res. cap and let a bit of air out. This will allow the fluid to replace the air in the line between the bleeder and the res. and make the process a lot easier.

 

How-To , and gravity works also.

 

wow, nice how-to thank you.

 

ah yes, our good ol friend gravity

 

Herbie Hind I hope you didn't get any air in the ASC/DSC module. If you did, I think you will have to resort to the dealer doing the job. I believe they are the only ones equipped with the proper type of bleeding equipment that will remove all the air trapped in that module. Good luck

 

Thanks for all the responses guys. Keith - thanks for another great how-to.

I recently did the second brake job on my 2003 MCS with 80,000 miles. The first time I used all OEM stuff w/o any issues. This last time I went with Powerslot rotors, Hawk HPS pads, and Goodridge SS brake lines. Two brake bleeds done with the two man method and the pedal still feels a bit soft with a longer pedal throw to engage than before the brake job. I'm thinking that there must still be some air trapped in the system that we are missing, and maybe it is time to try a pressure bleeder.

Len

 

A few extra steps not mentioned, wait 20 minutes or more after the first flush, perform a second round of short pressurized bleeds; for the latent OCCD in me I remove the pressure bleeder and do a short gravity bleed, after tapping the piston housing and caliper area near the bleeder valve with the nylon end of a screwdriver. If you still can’t restore a stiff pedal, use a traditional pedal pump method, working each caliper one at a time tapping and pumping, till the problem caliper is located.

 

oh yes in deed i may have ...but for what they charge i'll pressure bleed it 5 times before i go to them .

 

Is the clutch cylinder bleed absolutely necessary? The motive website instructions seem to skip this part altogether.

 

Bentley manual shows the clutch and brake bleeds in two different sections and does not say you have to do one when doing the other. Motive Power Bleeder..

 

I made my own Motive-style pressure bleeder. In fact, my local hardware store had the very same (sprayer) pressure tank that Motive uses. So mine looks like theirs, but without the logo!

There is nothing sweeter than positive pressure bleeding. Pump up to about 10psi, and then open requisite nipples one by one. Doesn't require disinterested peddle pumper (or any helper) and is so much more effective than pumping peddles. It's fast, too, and these are all the reasons garages do this.

Before making this positive pressure bleeder, I'd made and used a negative pressure bleeder for a few years. It consisted of a vacuum pump located downstream of the nipple. This was more hassle than the positive pressure and I don't recommend it.

 

Allow me to add some notes to the above. I bleed my brakes before each track event, usually no more than two days before same and have never lost my brakes at an event. Brake fluid is hydroscopic, i.e., it sucks up water. Since I do about 8-10 events/yr., I don't do a complete bleed. I just use a turkey baster to remove the fluid in the reservoir, then add fresh fluid. While I do use a MOTIVE, I just fill the reservoir, pressurize the MOTIVE and bleed the rears, then de-pressurize, add more fluid, re-pressurize and bleed the fronts. Using this method, I use about 1/2 liter of ATE typ 200. Another tip: put a light coat of brake fluid on the MOTIVE O-ring and cap gasket. It minimizes pressure leaks.
A word of warning about the clutch slave cylinder: DON'T do this unless you read the factory instructions. You MUST remove the slave cylinder from its mount, depress the plunger completely with a clamp before you open the bleed screw. If you don't you're in for a horrible time and at least a couple of liters of brake fluid to correct your mistake. Believe me, I know!