Drivetrain What's My Next Mod Would Be? Opened For Suggestions
Camber plates and 19mm swaybar will make the car handle like it should
If you run more neg camber at the front, you don't need the swaybar to be as big. (19mm on middle would probably be a good start, with -1.5 to -2 deg of camber at the front, and -1 or so at the rear)
Yup, I've got little info about that and I'm foloowing up with Jan about it. The problem is that the redline is coded in the TCU (Transmission Control Unit) and not the ECU which is mastered by Jan already. Another thing is, there's some kind of protection system that kicks in to limit the revs of the engine in case the gearbox did not shift, or something like that. Those information are from a friend of mine who works in Mini plant, Oxford.
Now I'm lost, with current engine power which is above 200HP, shall I move to suspension and brake mod? Or shall I continue slight engine mods like the RMW cam and RMW programimg?
Is there any LSD or gearbox upgrades for the automatics? I started feeling that there will come levels that the gearbox will not be able to match and tolerate the engine power.
I think that the auto has been taken up to at least 230HP so at 200hp I wouldnt worry. That said, aside from a tune the only other big gains to be had are either through twincharging or a new head, both of which are big money. If I were in your posistion I would get a tune then focus on suspension and brakes.
There are some really high price:performance ratio suspension components out there if you havent actually done any suspension mods yet. The price:performance ratio on engine parts starts to go down real fast once you do the big four (intake, tune, pulley, exhaust).
There are some really high price:performance ratio suspension components out there if you havent actually done any suspension mods yet. The price:performance ratio on engine parts starts to go down real fast once you do the big four (intake, tune, pulley, exhaust).
I think that the auto has been taken up to at least 230HP so at 200hp I wouldnt worry. That said, aside from a tune the only other big gains to be had are either through twincharging or a new head, both of which are big money. If I were in your posistion I would get a tune then focus on suspension and brakes.
There are some really high price:performance ratio suspension components out there if you havent actually done any suspension mods yet. The price:performance ratio on engine parts starts to go down real fast once you do the big four (intake, tune, pulley, exhaust).
There are some really high price:performance ratio suspension components out there if you havent actually done any suspension mods yet. The price:performance ratio on engine parts starts to go down real fast once you do the big four (intake, tune, pulley, exhaust).
Luys, I forgot to tell you. the $900 include the following parts, not only the intercooler:
Intercooler 1 17-51-7-565-302
Cover 1 17-51-7-565-345
Air Duct (underhood) 1 51-13-4-404-668
Support 2 17-51-7-511-947
Hex Bolts 4 07-13-0-782-486
Intercooler 1 17-51-7-565-302
Cover 1 17-51-7-565-345
Air Duct (underhood) 1 51-13-4-404-668
Support 2 17-51-7-511-947
Hex Bolts 4 07-13-0-782-486
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I'm not aware of anything you could do to "Beef up" the transmission. I don't know of any LSD's (Which wouldn't help with strengthening transmission internals) for the Auto, or any other types of upgrades. The torque converter is the likely thing to watch, but since our cars, even modded, don't make that much torque, you shouldn't have any immediate issues.
You could of course sell your car for one that's stick, that will raise both the fun factor and solve any potential transmission issues
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This is true, if you haven't already invested in a suspension and tires to put that power down i'd suggest you do that. I've already spent all the money that needs to get spent on suspension, brakes, tires, etc. Now my focus is power! 
I'd suggest a good, sticky set of tires and a stiff suspension to limit the inherent weight transfer to the rear on hard acceleration. TSW makes a great set of springs that don't lower the car that much, or if you've got the coin, go with a set of coilovers.

I'd suggest a good, sticky set of tires and a stiff suspension to limit the inherent weight transfer to the rear on hard acceleration. TSW makes a great set of springs that don't lower the car that much, or if you've got the coin, go with a set of coilovers.
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Ok, my plan is GP wheels and have Michelan tires on them, maybe wider than the stock GP tires are, 255 or 265. Then JCW suspension and 25mm rear sway bar. This is after I finish my JCW brake upgrade project which I already started searching for.
. Honestly that's WAY too much tire for a car this light. 215 width tires are plenty for the street and even the track.
Nick, PM sent. I must have made a mistake. I thought the stock tire width is 245. I should get back to one of the GP pictures I've got.
I NEED GP wheels because my vendor will drop any warranty on anything related to wheels if wheels are not OEM. This is why I'm paying $350 per GP wheel. Also, no one can argue that GP wheels are the best looking wheels ever on a Mini
I NEED GP wheels because my vendor will drop any warranty on anything related to wheels if wheels are not OEM. This is why I'm paying $350 per GP wheel. Also, no one can argue that GP wheels are the best looking wheels ever on a Mini
Nick, PM sent. I must have made a mistake. I thought the stock tire width is 245. I should get back to one of the GP pictures I've got.
I NEED GP wheels because my vendor will drop any warranty on anything related to wheels if wheels are not OEM. This is why I'm paying $350 per GP wheel. Also, no one can argue that GP wheels are the best looking wheels ever on a Mini
I NEED GP wheels because my vendor will drop any warranty on anything related to wheels if wheels are not OEM. This is why I'm paying $350 per GP wheel. Also, no one can argue that GP wheels are the best looking wheels ever on a Mini
You're saying that your dealership in Jeddah will not honor the warranty if you have aftermarket wheels? That sucks, in the US we have a law that was passed to prevent treatment like that, I'm not sure of the local laws there, but perhaps there is something similar?
Edit: On reading further, you said drop the warranty on anything relating to wheels, does that mean anything on the axel? Brakes, suspension, axels, wheel bearings, etc?
Nope! Here things are different. On my first maintenance visit they warned me of getting ANY aftermarket part as it will voide the warranty of connected/related parts. In Saudi, Mini/BMW are monopulated by one dealer. As per the dealer, any accessory or added part should carry the warranty when:
-Proof it's OEM provided on warranty claim.
-Proof it's purchased from a certified dealer provided on warranty claim.
-Proof it's installed by a certified dealer provided on warranty claim.
I had my JCW gear shifting indicator failed once, and they asked me for the above to get it replaced on warranty!!!!
-Proof it's OEM provided on warranty claim.
-Proof it's purchased from a certified dealer provided on warranty claim.
-Proof it's installed by a certified dealer provided on warranty claim.
I had my JCW gear shifting indicator failed once, and they asked me for the above to get it replaced on warranty!!!!
Nope! Here things are different. On my first maintenance visit they warned me of getting ANY aftermarket part as it will voide the warranty of connected/related parts. In Saudi, Mini/BMW are monopulated by one dealer. As per the dealer, any accessory or added part should carry the warranty when:
-Proof it's OEM provided on warranty claim.
-Proof it's purchased from a certified dealer provided on warranty claim.
-Proof it's installed by a certified dealer provided on warranty claim.
I had my JCW gear shifting indicator failed once, and they asked me for the above to get it replaced on warranty!!!!
-Proof it's OEM provided on warranty claim.
-Proof it's purchased from a certified dealer provided on warranty claim.
-Proof it's installed by a certified dealer provided on warranty claim.
I had my JCW gear shifting indicator failed once, and they asked me for the above to get it replaced on warranty!!!!
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Yeah you are right. The only aftermarket thing I have is the pulley which I do not expect them to notice during regular maintenance visits. That's why I like Jan's tunes and work. His cars' looks are silent and never tell they are modified.
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, I've checked already. Luys, I can get you one for $900+shipping. Shipping is from UK to Turkey. Tell me if you want one so I'll arrange for 2 for both of us.
isn't expensive or normal ?