Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R53) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain intercooler coating

Old Mar 18, 2008 | 09:43 AM
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intercooler coating

this weekend i am ramoving my stock intercooler from my 02 MCS and cleaning it. while it is out, is it possible to cremic coat it to increase the cooling capacity? thanks
 
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Old Mar 18, 2008 | 09:47 AM
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https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ad.php?t=87352

Have fun reading this one.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2008 | 10:02 AM
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Search on Thermal Dispersant Coatings...

There are places near where I live that can do it faster, but the best price is from Cradin, www.cradin.com. I'm not sure what it costs now, but it was about $65 when I had mine done a couple years ago. I measured about the same temp delta as keith (k-huevo) during data logging session. If you think it's about 1% increase in air density, that's about 1-2 HP at well under $100. I do it to every IC I've run (stock and GP). It's relatively cheap, can't hurt and can help.

Matt
 
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Old Mar 18, 2008 | 10:05 AM
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it looks great, i was just wondering if i could do it at home?
 
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Old Mar 18, 2008 | 10:11 AM
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Yes...

but you don't want to. You need to really clean the surface well, and a dip tank is the best for that. There are coatings you can do at home, but really, let the pros do it so it's done well. Some require baking, some don't. It's put on with a sprayer, just like poweder coating or paint, but I think it needs a larger nozzle. Not sure there. There's also a bit of an art to getting it all down the fins so it's not just at the top layer.... It does make a massive mess. The "coating corner" at the local shop looks like someone spraypainted all the walls flat black. As does the bench and everything around there.

Matt
 
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Old Mar 18, 2008 | 10:31 AM
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money is tight right now, is there anything sold at a local auto parts store that would be at all effective?
 
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Old Mar 18, 2008 | 10:33 AM
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NO
 
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Old Mar 18, 2008 | 11:03 AM
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PATIENCE! if money's too tight just wait to do it right instead of wasting the money on something thats ineffective and end up having to do it again for it to work correctly.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2008 | 11:17 AM
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Bingo!

We have a winner!

Matt

ps, if you don't have it to spend, then don't spend it. Look at the mess the bank (and lots of people) are in now cause the either forgot, or never learned, that simple pearl of wisdom.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2008 | 03:52 PM
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www.swaintech.com can coat it with two different materials. One to block heat from the bottom solid portions and another that is used on the fins that allows a 5% heat removal increase.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2008 | 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by charger
www.swaintech.com can coat it with two different materials. One to block heat from the bottom solid portions and another that is used on the fins that allows a 5% heat removal increase.
Swain is really good, I've been using them for years. They aren't about bling, they concentrate more on function.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2008 | 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Dr Obnxs
There are places near where I live that can do it faster, but the best price is from Cradin, www.cradin.com. I'm not sure what it costs now, but it was about $65 when I had mine done a couple years ago. I measured about the same temp delta as keith (k-huevo) during data logging session. If you think it's about 1% increase in air density, that's about 1-2 HP at well under $100. I do it to every IC I've run (stock and GP). It's relatively cheap, can't hurt and can help.

Matt
So you take yours off and ship it to them? What was the turn around time Dr O.?
 
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Old Mar 18, 2008 | 04:36 PM
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This isn't a problem with the tight fins on our IC's?
 
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Old Mar 18, 2008 | 06:00 PM
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It was about 4-5 days I think...

I don't remember. Ask around, you may find someone with an extra stocker to keep you on the road....

I've looked at the fins on all four I've had done, and while penetration isn't perfect into the fins, I only had one that I thought could have been done better. But the coating thickness is more on the leading edges than deep into the fins.

Matt
 
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Old Mar 18, 2008 | 06:15 PM
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Old Jan 31, 2009 | 11:45 AM
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I realize that this is an older thread, but if you believe that the coating increases "micro-turbulence" why not just use some EZ-Off oven cleaner (contains lye) and do a slow etch to roughen the surface?

Or, if you think that the color matters (it doesn't)perhaps have the IC anodized black ?

Reducing airflow by putting a few thousandths of less-conductive material on the surface is certainly not going to improve things, IMHO...
 
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Old Jan 31, 2009 | 05:56 PM
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...wat?

DrO has shown that the coating disperses heat in numerous threads

Not sure where you got that etching the fins bit from. Are you referring to another thread?
 
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Old Jan 31, 2009 | 09:20 PM
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OldRick and I have had some PMs on the subject...

and what it comes down to is that not all ceramics have low thermal conductivities. And not all of these coatings are black either, just the one I got was (well, the two I got were). Anyway, for the relative cost and no measured decrease in performance, it's still a potentially good bang for the buck when compared to some of the other performance adders out there.

Matt
 
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Old Jan 31, 2009 | 10:02 PM
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Ahhhh,

Thanks Matt, thought I read everything there was about IC's (at least on nam) that part wasn't ringing a bell for me
 
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Old Jan 31, 2009 | 10:47 PM
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The etching notion was just a thought of mine - there is more than one way to create "micro-turbulence", and etching aluminum to roughen the surface can be done with household chemicals.

I haven't tried it yet, and probably won't, as I have no way to measure whether it was worth the mess.
 
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Old Feb 1, 2009 | 11:05 AM
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The thermal dispersant coating discussed here is not a ceramic. The OE IC has a “coating” to begin with that can be seen under high magnification, one of the preparation steps is to media blast the areas to be covered in order to remove this coating.
 
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Old Feb 1, 2009 | 11:06 AM
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On the topic, no IC works well when "coated" with bug parts and plant fuzz, and it's nearly impossible to clean out the impacted natural material once it gets into the fins.

Rather than put coarse screening in the mail slot (which definitely reduces airflow) it is less restrictive to put a finer screen directly over the IC surface, laid flat under the diverter.

The external turbulator vanes and channels are on 1/12" centers, so I got a piece of 12/inch nylon-coated screen from www.mcmaster.com (coarser than a standard window screen), with about 80% open area, and cut it to fit over the IC surface.

The 12/inch spacing ensures that there are no moire-pattern effects, and still keeps out the bug parts that are large enough to otherwise get impacted in the fins. My IC now stays much cleaner, and what does get through the screen is easy to rinse out.
 
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