Drivetrain ALTA PWI-1 Water Injection Test!
The kit will always make a larger difference on cars with non-standard boost levels.
As always, more to come!
Hey Adam, I need a little help here. I am going to hook it up using IDC, instead of MAP load. I can not find what wire to use from the fuel injector on my 2008 mini cooper s? Can you have Jeff, or Chris respond to this thread with the answer please. I called Chris and left a message last week with no response. Thanks Adam
Last edited by chakraj; May 24, 2009 at 06:54 PM.
Hey Adam, I need a little help here. I am going to hook it up using IDC, instead of MAP load. I can not find what wire to use from the fuel injector on my 2008 mini cooper s? Can you have Jeff, or Chris respond to this thread with the answer please. I called Chris and left a message last week with no response. Thanks Adam
)Glad they got you handled today!
The PWI-2 system can do injector pulse pickup on a non-Direct injected car. But on the R56 you would use a 0-5V sensor like MAF or MAP. You could use TPS but it will not be very progressive.
Then for tuning at this point, nothing, but below may answer some of that question.
Well its not lean for a Direct Injected car. But lean compared to a normal turbo car. But yes WI does make it run richer, which is good and safe, but there is alot more to this story. In tuning the R56 with the Unichip and other ECU products the fueling is 100% closed loop. Meaning there is an AFR target and the ECU uses the Wideband 02 sensor to maintain this. Meaning the AFR will not change after the WI is install, also meaning the ECU is pulling fuel to meet the AFR target. Why this is weird is this happens under all loads not just cruise like normal cars.
An example is if a normal car is tuned to 11.0AFR, turning on the water/meth will make it .5AFR to 1 AFR richer. Leaning the AFR back to the same level is how we normally tune the fuel side of things. Going leaner can make more power, but that is the general rule. So with the R56, knowing that the AFR curve is just fine (yes can be better, but was very safe on our 280WHP R56) and knowing the ECU will lean it back out after the water is turned on its perfectly safe and it will make more power.
Well hard, is relative to your experience. I would say for a DIY'er with the normal basic tools and a auto parts store close by, not a problem at all. It would just take you about 2-4 hours depending on the tank and pump location. We will soon have some R56 specific instructions that will use the OEM washer tank. We feel this is the best solution as there isn't much room to run another tank in the engine bay. Using this for both windows and your Water Meth mixture is just fine. Windsheild washer fluid is already a meth/water mixture with a little detergent. Besides the water/meth mixture costing a bit more, not a big deal at all. Also the tank is rated for the mixture, and i feel its a better option than installing a tank in the trunk.
If you really don't want to use the front washer tank, a rear tank, with the pump mounted close to it or in the engine bay would work just fine, you may just need some more hose(which we stock).
Hope that all make sense.
Then for tuning at this point, nothing, but below may answer some of that question.
Well its not lean for a Direct Injected car. But lean compared to a normal turbo car. But yes WI does make it run richer, which is good and safe, but there is alot more to this story. In tuning the R56 with the Unichip and other ECU products the fueling is 100% closed loop. Meaning there is an AFR target and the ECU uses the Wideband 02 sensor to maintain this. Meaning the AFR will not change after the WI is install, also meaning the ECU is pulling fuel to meet the AFR target. Why this is weird is this happens under all loads not just cruise like normal cars.
An example is if a normal car is tuned to 11.0AFR, turning on the water/meth will make it .5AFR to 1 AFR richer. Leaning the AFR back to the same level is how we normally tune the fuel side of things. Going leaner can make more power, but that is the general rule. So with the R56, knowing that the AFR curve is just fine (yes can be better, but was very safe on our 280WHP R56) and knowing the ECU will lean it back out after the water is turned on its perfectly safe and it will make more power.
Well hard, is relative to your experience. I would say for a DIY'er with the normal basic tools and a auto parts store close by, not a problem at all. It would just take you about 2-4 hours depending on the tank and pump location. We will soon have some R56 specific instructions that will use the OEM washer tank. We feel this is the best solution as there isn't much room to run another tank in the engine bay. Using this for both windows and your Water Meth mixture is just fine. Windsheild washer fluid is already a meth/water mixture with a little detergent. Besides the water/meth mixture costing a bit more, not a big deal at all. Also the tank is rated for the mixture, and i feel its a better option than installing a tank in the trunk.
If you really don't want to use the front washer tank, a rear tank, with the pump mounted close to it or in the engine bay would work just fine, you may just need some more hose(which we stock).
Hope that all make sense.
Sorry, I know this is an old thread.
But I have one question regarding the A/F ratio on tuned Minis.
Mine was tuned, but I still see a 14.7 af/ratio. At any boost (even at 20 psi)
Only after a while after wot I see the A/F starts to gets richer reaching 11:1 in the end, but I´m afraid the engine could blow with 20 psi and 14.7 a/f before the upgraded map kicks in!
If you are running the factory tune, this is common. But normally on a custom tune, you wouldn't be seeing this. We posted a blog post about this a while back here.
If you have any more questions, feel free to PM.
If you have any more questions, feel free to PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Hippiehobbit267
MINI Parts for Sale
0
Sep 1, 2015 06:13 PM



...no CELs with your Uni?