Hi,
I have JCW car. I want to change the camshaft to Schrick Cooper S Cam but i am not sure Can any body tell me about this idea and who installed it into JCW can please help me
Thanks

 

Um, good idea. I think the JCW cam is the same as stock. it's pretty easy. just be careful.

 

About what you are not sure?

 

 

So change it.

The JCW cam is standard cam. They sell you new with JCW kit, just to get your money.

JCW is waste of your money. Why? Because the sell you 50% standard parts.

 

Here is the link to the article you might be interested in.

European Car reviews MINI Cooper Schrick camshaft


Hope this will help you decide.

 

, the beginning of that article... "you reach for third gear and start to nose away"

Yeah and you've also hit 70 mph on a public street and are being pulled over for speeding and reckless endangerment.

 

please... i'm sure none of us ever run 3rd gear out to redline.

 

I do.

(at the strips, track or off-road, of course)

 

I've been seriously considering the same mod in the very near future

 

I had the Shhrick in my 03 JCW. There is a difference from 3200rpm up. Also got agout 7 extra HP on the Dyno.

 

What other mods did you have?

 

I have the Scrick cam and the low end tq to high end hp could be a tradeoff.... there are rumors of some new cams coming...

not sure i would do it for the cost..... I think that the head/header/tune is the best use of money

 

Alta CAI, Intercooler, Milltek header, Resonator elim-pipe, WMS TBI, Unichip, Alta2%, P/P Intake manifold, JCW 380 injectors and a few other mods.

 

Sure, maybe on a highway... but surface streets? No way.

 

I also hit the fifth to redline.

But not in US.

 

Only on the way to Vegas, baby!

 

Now, I just yawn when I hear this rumor. I first naively began to anticipate "new cams" from one source or another when I read on M7's web site -- many moons ago -- that the Shrick would temporarily replace the Cosworth in their Stage whatever "Cosworth" engine upgrade packages. Two years + later, no change there.

In addition, for quite a good long while now, this one or that one have hinted here on NAM that they grind their own and so forth. I still haven't seen anyone claim repeatable positive results with any stick other than a Schrick. I am sure that many excellent tuners have approached this with the best of intentions, but just have not been able to beat the OEM (on the lower end) or the Schrick (from 3500-4000 and up).

I have given up on considering a Schrick as a likely path to (street) upgrade success because of the tq/hp tradeoff you also mentioned (MiniMania's 2005 Euro-Tuner mag article to the contrary). My next major play is definitely a head -- either RMW or FBT.

 

well, something i have learned by reading into what will become my next major mod, a stand alone ecu, that you really cant do to much with cams in any stock car. The reason being that the injectors fire what is called "sequential" a bit of a misnomer but what they call it anyway. What this means is that the injector only fired when the valve is open, and it fires more fuel right before the valve opens. This is good for emitions, but does nothing for power fwiw. Anway, what this means is that you cant go drastically changing cam specs or else your injectors wont be firing at the right time. Longer durations (at least at the front end) are largely wasted. All you can really benefit from is changes to the exhaust, which there is only so much you can do, and higher lifts, which again, has alot to do with how long the duration is. You can only open and shut the valve so fast. So, to get what i would call a good cam (i guess the schrick and the like are the best for the stock ecu anyway, even tho i dont like them on the whole), is not going to play with the stock ecu. I dont know if LDG or Jan or anyone can actually change injector firing times and what not. I suppose they could, but imagine the bill from that dyno tuning ( at least im assuming). Maybe one of them can chime in and let us know if they can (or maybe even do) do this, or if it is not possible. Another thing to consider is idle characteristics. Stock computers dont like lumpy idles, it confuses them (as the idle drops it would feed in more fuel to speed it up, but by that time the rpm has picked up naturally already, and now its rich, and on and on and on). There isnt much to be done without putting idle into a range that the stock computer wouldnt like. Might be able to fix that as well. But by the time you have done all this in the stock ecu, you probably should have just gone with a standalone anyway. Ive always loved looking at cam specs, and the cams for minis have always disapointed. Actually, if you would like to hear it, the schrick cam is almost identical (ramps are different) to the 75 year old cam i am running in my hot rod. Its a race cam. The main difference is our intake specs is my exhaust spec, and vica-versa. I laughed a long time when i seen that, i just dont like how they are vica-versa. I have actually considered putting the identical cam into my cooper (mines not an s) as my hotrod, hahah. I dont like it much for a forced induction motor much at all, but its the best you can do with a stock ecu from i can see.

Man, this got to be a long post, sorry...

Beecher

 

Here are the spec for both Schrick camshafts (older & current) for R53 (MCS).

part no.42401521-00 has been an earlier version produced for the Cooper S.
The specs are:
opening duration intake/exhaust: 252°/260°
peak timing:114°
cam lift int./exh.: 5.77mm/6.24mm
lift at TDC int./exh.: 0.26/0.42mm

the "current" version, part no.: 42401641-03
opening duration intake/exhaust: 264°/272°
peak timing:114°
cam lift int./exh.: 5.77mm/6.24mm
lift at TDC int./exh.: 0.5/0.65mm

I have an older version and Jan will dyno tune my MINI in January.

 

Beecher,
The sequential injection is only for part throttle low rpm. Once it gets to about 3k rpm it is semi sequential and basically injecting the whole time. Sequential does make a big performance difference at idle, low rpm and part throttle. Disconnect your cam sensor and it will be obvious.

I have the newer schrick cam and think it was well worth it. This is on a stock head with mth (not tuned for the cam). I don't know that it would be worth while without a header/exhaust though. Probably better with some head work too. the tune and power feel great, enough to leave the car alone and not nickle and dime myself with mods until I'm ready to add some big power.

 

didnt know that. Sort of makes sense tho, cause by the time the rpms get up, you would be dealing with microsecond pulses probably (assuming anyway). I agree that it would work better in those areas, was just saying you cant stray to far from stock with out modifying the program. You can disconect the cam sensor? hmmmm. Would that basically just give me batch injection? I could be up for that so i can get a cam in before i get the stand alone. Then again, the cam is half the standalone cost, so i should probably just get it first, aaaaahhh. After the great sale of 07 i have no money left anyway. Darn jcw parts. on the up side, my dash and spoiler are arriving home finally today, which makes it that last of the jcw parts i have ordered to get here. now i just need to go get my coilovers that are at my friends house. Sorry, im way off topic, just angry im not rich...

Beecher

 

The sensor is there for to tell the dme which 180* cycle the crank is in. Without it the injection is in default semi sequential mode. I can tell you that the car drives much better in sequential. It was driveable, but gas mileage dropped fast. My schrick works fine and I have not heard of them having issues with the injection. You could probably fine tune it, but you would need some serious cam timing changes to cause a problem. Why do you need a stand alone to run a street cam?

 

I have the cam with no head mod, and run with stock ECU (JCW) for over 10k miles. No issue as well.

 

"Ah see there is your problem, there appears to be a beaver drinking redbull in your engine bay."