rbaker - Great idea!

 

I re-installed the plastic cover as well, after cutting a rather large whole out of the bottom to allow the shifter free movement. I figured a little was better than none. Haven't notice a heat issue, but of course I will be LOOKING for heat now and will likely find it. I never should have read this post. However, the bit about a thin piece of aluminum is a good idea - next time I find myself under the car with the exhaust and heat shield lowered I'll have to look into this.

 

I've had it both ways: with a hole cut out of the plastic cover and with the cover removed completely. The heat was the same, it made no difference (at least in my car).

The least amount of heat I felt through the shifter was when the resonator was wrapped, I will probably do it again next time I have the car up in a lift.

 

Same problem with the Alta SS kit. I get a slight hot breeze coming in from the small gap between the stick and the leather.

 

Whelp...you were right maybe... RacePak called today, I fried 2 chips they claim, however it never picked up the serial port from the get go. I'll be adding heat shielding below and above where the unit sits before it's reinstalled. They told me it cant get over 150F. Guess I'll be placing a thermometer in it's location and doing some testing to be sure the already hacked up space is kept cool enough.

 

I'd reconsider that location Nathan...insulating it will still take a lot to keep the heat from eventually saturating the box over time...just move it back like this...

 

An issue with mounting it there is cable length. The cable that runs the gauges will not reach back there and I'm loath to order yet another bit from them until I know the unit and all the gauges work. Have only seen the gauges light up not actually do anything. Factor in that I've cut up the console directly behind the shifter that housed the mirror and seat controls I no longer need and the console around ebrake. I'd need to purchase new ones of both. That still doesn't fix the real issue of the shiftbox being open and and allowing all that heat to pass when a window is open. The trick is to close off the shift box and for extra measure insulate both the interior and exterior in that location. I'm determined to make it work there dagnapit!

 

Two other points I thought off while grilling a beautiful bone in Ribeye...

1. The serial connection never worked properly. I always received the same error. Tested with multiple laptops and OS's, with and without serial to USB converters. My unit was purchased "used", it was one of the ones used at AMVIV. They didn't use Vnet functions so that was never tested until I had it. Racepak only charged me for labor and only 1 hour at that.

2. I'm stubborn and want the unit to be in the spot I have planned. It WILL work there. That and the OEM armrest would prevent me from installing it in the same location you did Sid.

 

Yes the cable reaches with lots to spare Nate...you must've gotten short changed...LOL

 

The cable I speak of is the Vnet cable that plugs into the Aux connector next to the GPS connector. The other end connects to the end of the all of ganged sensors for the gauges. Part # 680-CA-AUX-084. Not running the RacePak gauges you would not need or have one of these.

 

Oh them gauges for the space shuttle...

 

Whit what I have tied up in those gauges one might be able to launch a shuttle...sheesh...

Doc O sent me some pics of another location to mount the base unit. While I greatly appreciate the input I'm determined to make this work.

 

I would caution against short shifters that extend the shaft far enough to require removing the dust cover; it puts too much speed on the shift action in my opinion. But, you fellows are committed to your decision.

My SS allows the cover to remain so I can apply sound deadening material to the surface which also performs a thermal barrier function. There is also an application to the interior box.



In addition to the channel below the car, viscoelastic material can be applied to the interior console trim pieces. I also have aluminum tape covered Koozy foam placed in the center trim pieces.



If the downtubes/faux supports are getting hot for you Nathan, perhaps insert some insulating material within.


I have a project planned to apply a thermal barrier to the bulkhead's exhaust header channel and the center channel over the existing viscoelastic layer. http://www.heatshieldproducts.com/heat_shield_mat.php

 

A plan has been formulated.

We are going to fabricate a new dust cover out of Al. The underside of the Mini in that area will also be covered with heat shielding.

Whats causing the issue now is the dust cover being removed and when the window is open air comes up from the tunnel and into the interior. Sealing off the lower entry points and covering the area with shielding in theory should solve the issue. I'll know after my first track session next Saturday.

 

Did anyone ever resolve this heat issue?
I'm having the same heat problem with mine. Dust cover left off because I shattered it trying to get it off!

 

Oh yeah, forgot to report back.

All is well now. A new cover was fabricated and the cover plus the surrounding area were covered ion a heat shield. No heat related issues whatsoever have shown up after two track weekends in 90+ weather. The down tubes are not getting hot and there is no longer a hot breeze emanating from under the shifter.

 

So is the factory heat shield still there and just shaped to fit the cover?
Jason

 

Any chance of you making some more of these sheilds for your friends? I would be willing to pay for something like this.