Happening in my '05 too! Never stalled tho, I know I run a bit too rich with the 380s, but it was doing it before my upgrades.

 

Really? That's in huh. No tricks of the trade or anything. Yeah it never stalls, ah wuh wuh wuh wuh wuh until I blip it. Seems I have the typical Chewbacka clutch too. It's getting worse I think though, first gear only and especially on hills.

 

The idle circuit issue depends on the year and whether any recalls were made to require the ECU to be reprogrammed. This happened with my old '02 MCS back on October '05. The dealership said they would not reverse the recall. However, you might get lucky with the one near you (provided they have a reference ECU program that's still around).

 

An ecu software update (from dealership or MINI shop with the GT1/Autologic tool) or a custom tune/mapping will solve this problem.

 

Ah. I don't feel like dealing with dealerships. So custom map. Is there any piece of hardware/sorftware that will allow me to do this on my own? I play with the fueling on my race bikes all the time so I'm familiar with the process. Just never done it on a car.

It's prob something as simple as boosting the idle 100 or so rpms or just playing with the air/fuel mix at the current idle.

So this GT1/Autologic tool is something that basically just pops into the obd2 and allows you to remap fueling. Anyone know if they can be rented anywhere? I'm assuming they're big bucks to purchase.

 

We offer the FA Tuning Kit for the 1st Gen MINIs... more info can be found here:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...0-r52-r53.html

This allows you access to the mappings inside your stock ecu.

BMW and MINI shops usually have the tools and they will charge a fee to upgrade the software to the latest version. Some have used the Autologic to loaded Canned tunes as well and that runs anywhere from $400 to $600.

 

Most tuners only tune the wide-open-throttle (WOT) tune. They don't work with the idle circuit. If Byte Tronik's device allows you to do so, consider getting one.

 

We actually focus more on the driveability of the car first, then worry about the WOT last.

And with the newer version of FA that we are working on, there are many added maps to the list.

 

i have an 03 R53.. eversince i got it, it did the same thing on every traffic light i had to stop on. at first i was afraid it would stall, but then it did come back to a normal idle.
i do run a custom map, colder spark plugs, 17%pulley, and the BMC fluidity filter (dont know if its a proper name but we call it here like that), and it did do it while it was stock and it still did it after the tune.
due to the circumstances, i had to rebuild the engine, and i thought, well, everything is completely new, i shouldnt be doing it...
ran the car few days after the rebuild, and it happened... obviuously, the rebuild didnt improve anything, and it didnt worsen things either, its just here LOL and i cant get rid of it. i am considering getting 440cc injectors and new coil and wires.. maybe that fixes it..

 

If you're thinking about injectors, you'll need a tune anyway, I would consider talking to the Byteronik guys, as stated before, the will focus on the everyday driveability first.
I had this same issue for a long time due to overfuelling by the ECU because of a cam it didn't like, we were still able to tune this problem out, sounds like a similar situation, if the car is overfueling slightly as it comes off rpm it is trying to compensate for this and seems to do so, but just takes a sec. or two. (just my thought since you didn't mention it doing it on start up & idle, just coming off rpm)

 

The idle problem can be addressed by a good ECU Mapping. We can actually tune out the misfiring caused by aggressive cams The UK MINIs were notorious for stalling at idle and rough idling... when we were there in 2009, we fixed quite a few bad idling MINIs.

On the injector upgrades, it all depends on your driving style. If you hardly go above 6800rpm, then the injectors you have now should be fine (it also depends on your mod list also).

Anyways, your tuner should be able to fix your rough idle and stalling issue... b/c he/she can't do it, then call us up about getting the FA Lite (or the FA53 if you want to tune it yourself or have your tuner tune it).

 

well, currently it has a 17% reduction pulley by KAVS motorsports, their custom map, colder plugs, BMC air filter which is placed in the stock airbox, but im planing on to put some CAI once i get the opportunity. But the car has been doing that since i got it, even after the tune it happened. Well, the main reason for getting new injectors is the mine are probably broken. at least ive been told so. the mechanic said that i could send them to get cleaned, but the problem is that he wont warrant if something goes wrong. he told me that they are the reason why the parts around the shifter is getting hot, cause of in properly given mixture of air and gas, and thats why the header is overheating, even with the heat shield on.
have no idea..
do you send international? what info do you need from me? what are the prices? thanks in advance.

 

Yep, we ship internationally all the time and have many int'l customers. In fact, KAV is one of our FA53 customers

What country are you in? Here are some feedbacks from our overseas customers who have gotten our Remote Mapping service with the FA Tuning Kit.
http://www.bytetronik.com//customers.html#pic_171

You will need to following for Remote Mapping Service:
1. FA-Lite ($450)
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...uners-new.html
2. The Innovate AFR Kit with serial patch cable $197
3. Remote Mapping (for the M45) on your current set up $150
4. Plus USPS Shipping

If you'd like a set of Bosch 550s to go along with the package, that's $275. If you want a set of used OEM injectors, that's $75.

Here are the procedures for our RM service:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...rocedures.html

All this can be ordered through our website.

 

I have an 05 refresh and I had the same idle problem. Seemed to be hunting for the right RPM at idle. Not sure if this has been mentioned but, look at your coil. When I replaced mine, the idle problem worked itself out. When I removed the stock coil, the number 3 terminal was completely covered with corrosion. MSD coil, colder plugs, and new wires fixed my idle problem.

 

did your car have any misfire code with the corroded terminal?

 

My 02 MCS has the same rough idle problem that you all are describing. Jan @ RMW noticed it while he was tuning my car a few months ago. He said it could be low compression. I had it checked out after returning home and sure enough low compression (leaking past the valves). Good excuse for a Thumper head!

 

what were your compression numbers across the cylinders? How many miles on your MINI?

There are many causes to the rough idle problem -low compression, clogged injectors, bad coil/wires, boost leak, etc... the latest we have seen are from agressive cam shaft grinds...

 

No codes thrown, just an irratic idle. Ignition upgrade was 3 years/30k miles ago. Has not been an issue since. Every so often, I get a stumble in the idle when its been sitting for a few days and cold but, not very often and it streightens itself out within a minute after warm up. Thinking of changing out the plugs again just because of age/milage. I have been running BRSK (I think thats right). I have seen some who had issues with them, I have not. But, I am thinking about just going back to the stock NGK's. My car is not heavly modded mechanically, just a 15% pully, CAI, Miltec exhaust, and the ignition upgrade mentioned. Many have said changing out the stock plugs is just overkill for those mods. Never done a tune yet to really tell how the heat range is reacting in my car. I dont track and just do some sprited driving occasionally. Getting ready to switch out my brake pads with EBC Green, Zimmerman rotors, stainless lines, urithane control arm and sway bar bushings, and a stock motor mount (all purchased from WMW). I just havent been able to find the time to put it all in. I might be calling Eric over at Helix for an install. He is a great guy and has done work for me before. The only reason I dont buy parts from him exclusivly is he is in PA and I am in DE. Between the PA tax bandits and the shipping charges, it adds alot to the cost. It's good to support small bussiness who support NAM and are real Mini fans, not just the "drop shippers" who are just in it for the buck and are just middleman sellers for Chineese sellers (wont mention any names). Wow I am rambeling... good luck with you idle issue. Maybe one of my suggestions may help. For now just pull the wires from your coil. If one has excessive corrosion, it might be the coil causing it. Others have had the same issue.

 

It's an 02 MCS with 85000 miles It does have a RMW street cam. My boost gauge reads about 14.5 psi with my 15% pulley. I had the compression test done by the dealer who told me that cylinder #3 was 17% low but I don't remember the specific numbers.

 

i just removed my intercooler to diagnose a fuel leak smell. i started the car with the intercooler removed. it was extremely loud and made a couple popping sounds so i turned it off right away. i just put everything back together, and now the idle is bouncing up and down around the 1k rpm mark, and very weak and sputtery, and just sounds so wrong. anybody know how to fix this?

 

Vacuum line somewhere?

 

thanks for the response. i dont think so though. everything was connected.

 

Has it thrown any codes?

 

just took down and rebuilt everything to triple check. its def all sealed properly as far as i know. still having the same problem. during startup, the ses light comes on, blinks a few times, then stays steady on. i dont have a scanner to check the codes right mow though.

 

Suggest that you clear the Adaptations and go from there - find a shop that has the Autologic or a buddy who has the right tools (Bavarian, FA53, FA-Lite or something similar). GL.