Well, these are beta, and under evaluation. I'll see how they work, and if not satisfied, I will make the nessicary chages. What would you have done?

 

i made a set with Aurora teflon lined rod ends. They needed to be bushed since the stock bolt is smaller than the available rod end size, and the yoke they fit into is wider. I machined aluminum shouldered bushings.

the problem was:
1. the +/- 10 degree shake was not compatible witht he DSC sensor clamp (and I had to make a clamp, which had to be loosened when the arm was adjusted).
2. access to the inboard locknuts on the rod end was a *****, making trackside adjustment way too difficult.
3. the rod end joint (instead of a compliant bushing) was a class violation for autox (important to some).

H-sport has addressed 2,3 above (except for 1, the DSC doodad) with their product.
Helix and Mini madness are already offering an adequate product functioanlly identical to yours for the same $.

I made my own version for my car alone, (historical remark)

 

Thanks for the information. I will take it into consideration, and see what modifications I need to make. I personally am not worried about the class issue, but I will look into that for the people that are.

 

http://www.spidertrax.com/fabrication_rea.htm

 

Well, The Rear Control Arms are installed in the stock Length for testing Purposes. Here are some install pics. I was able to install with out dropping the exhaust or anything.

 

Looks good Dan, keep up the good work, I'm digging the process so far, even with all the 'concerns' that keep cropping up. It seems like it/they will turn out to be a very competitive product(s), even coming from a start up company. There's plenty of room in the MINI aftermarket for another product to choose from and hopefully bring some of the other guys prices down to where they should be.

This is how products get developed and enter the market-without the 'corporate-crap-red-tape' to deal with. It may be uncommon for many larger companies to share their developement prpcess with the public for obvious reasons, but I happen to appreciate it, thanks for showing us.

BTW, some of the most recognized MINI tuners out there are fairly new to the scene, yet they're getting oohs and ahhs daily. they're not much different than Pilo Racing. People, give The Pilo some respect, please. Sorry for the breif rant, I will shut up now :smile:

 

>>Looks good Dan, keep up the good work, I'm digging the process so far, even with all the 'concerns' that keep cropping up. It seems like it/they will turn out to be a very competitive product(s), even coming from a start up company. There's plenty of room in the MINI aftermarket for another product to choose from and hopefully bring some of the other guys prices down to where they should be.
>>
>>This is how products get developed and enter the market-without the 'corporate-crap-red-tape' to deal with. It may be uncommon for many larger companies to share their developement prpcess with the public for obvious reasons, but I happen to appreciate it, thanks for showing us.
>>
>>BTW, some of the most recognized MINI tuners out there are fairly new to the scene, yet they're getting oohs and ahhs daily. they're not much different than Pilo Racing. People, give The Pilo some respect, please. Sorry for the breif rant, I will shut up now :smile:

Seriously, whats up everyones butts. I very much enjoy the fact that minipilo showed us the design process, and its great that people are offering suggestions, but everyone needs to drop the attitude! Give minipilo some respect, he certainly has been showing everyone here the utmost respect....

rant over, g'day!

 

Thanks for the compliments guys.. This is exactly what I stand for, letting you be part of the design process. And I hope that from that, better parts will come to be. And Again with very competative pricing!

 

based on my airplane experience, i don't think the teflon lined joints will last very long in the dirty undercar environment. they're really meant for clean places.

if you're set on heim joints, i'd suggest metal on metal/dry film lubed, with grease nipples, and with rubber dust booties. but these will cost more: "you pay your money and you make your choice."

 

>>based on my airplane experience, i don't think the teflon lined joints will last very long in the dirty undercar environment. they're really meant for clean places.
>>
>>if you're set on heim joints, i'd suggest metal on metal/dry film lubed, with grease nipples, and with rubber dust booties. but these will cost more: "you pay your money and you make your choice."

Guess What.... I did pay the money, and I did get the Oil Filmed Heim Joints. No teflon Heim's here The Metal Is Oil Imprebnated, so there is no need for the nipples to oil them. I made them with the best joints that were available to me. The Fianl Versions will be made slightly Different, but should be even stronger when there done.

 

>>>>based on my airplane experience, i don't think the teflon lined joints will last very long in the dirty undercar environment. they're really meant for clean places.
>>>>
>>>>if you're set on heim joints, i'd suggest metal on metal/dry film lubed, with grease nipples, and with rubber dust booties. but these will cost more: "you pay your money and you make your choice."
>>
>>Guess What.... I did pay the money, and I did get the Oil Filmed Heim Joints. No teflon Heim's here The Metal Is Oil Imprebnated, so there is no need for the nipples to oil them. I made them with the best joints that were available to me. The Fianl Versions will be made slightly Different, but should be even stronger when there done.


Guess what? Oil Impregnated is wet film, not dry film. You want something like Moly or Titanium Nitride.

The reason everyone is so critical of this project is you're trusting your health and well being to this gentleman who has very little real world experience in engineering or product design. When you design critical components like this, there is a lot of risk involved and you better carry a hefty insurance policy.


--
Cheese