I busted mine out this weekend too! I wasn't super happy with the Prima Swirl application that I did with the white pad, but I LOVED applying Klasse AIO with the black pad. What a difference!

That said, I am really glad I used the swirl - it helped greatly. I just think next time I need to work it in a bit more and also tape the trim...

 

I also liked using the PC to apply the Klasse twins but I found the MF bonnet to not be much help at removing them. That Klasse Sealant Glaze was a total bee-yotch to get off but it sure does add a lot of shine. I thought my arm would fall off before I finished. I broke down & used Hydro the next morn to get the SG that I missed though & it worked like a charm

 

What a bummer. I'm always OVERLY optimistic regarding my capabilities. Hand stitched a leather stearing wheel cover on the Volvo after work one evening years ago. Didn't finish till around midnight, and my fingers were nearly bleeding. You're about twenty years younger than I am. I'll probably have to allow 16 hours for the PC job.

Your pictures look good. Maybe you're being too hard on yourself. Our first results aren't gonna look like the Vette in OG's DVD. Do you think it will improve after time for the wax to cure? I'm so glad I decided to limit my weekend wash to Hydro. If I procrastinate much longer, however, it's gonna be so freakin hot I'll sweat off 10 pounds polishing Flo.

 

I've found that the AIO comes off very easily, as long as you use VERY little product. It only takes a nickel size amount to do a large body panel.

As for the SG, it can be a PITA, unless you do a final once-over with an acrylic detail spray, such as Sonus Acrylic Spritz. That takes off the SG haze like it's just dust. Will really save your arms

 

Excellent suggestions, Ken!

In general, I find this too. Many people don't let the abrasives break down all the way because they don't work each section long enough. Great suggestions.

-Heather

 

Bamatt, I feel your pain. First time I used the combo I think my black roof looked worse than when I started. Tons of new tiny scratches. Work the m80 slow and long with some pressure at the beginning lightening off and slightly increasing arm speed at the end when you see the polish breaking down. Some cars its wax ready after the m80 and others need another step. For me amigo on the black pad works good. Since you have the sonus system and Klasse I would work with what you've got, just incorporate the PC to save your hands.

 

I honestly think that the Meguiar's 8006 pad probably wasn't aggressive enough for the job. It may be that the M80 wasn't aggressive enough either (I'll let OG answer that one). I know that when paired with polishes like the Sonus polishes and the Prima polishes, the 8006 pad is more of a finishing or light polishing pad as opposed to a light cutting or swirl removing pad.

Keep in mind that M80 has filler/concealers in it. So, I think that it may have appeared that the swirls were diminished or gone after you were done polishing. Then, when you used the Klasse AIO, which has some very powerful paint cleansers in it, you essentially cleaned the fillers out- revealing the reality of the swirls. AIO will always remove fillers.

Tip: Whenever I use a product that has fillers in it but I am not at the finishing stages (in other words, I'm abrading out swirls still), I spritz each section with a small amount of rubbing alcohol and wipe it down. The rubbing alcohol removes the fillers so I can see what's really going on. Fillers can be really great at the final stages when you're tired of messing with that final 2% of perfection, but I don't like them when I'm doing true abrading. They "trick" you into thinking you've abraded enough when often you haven't.

Also, I think OctaneGuy often uses M80 after he's used the rotary to remove the majority of the swirls, right OG? I don't think it's powerful enough to do hardcore swirl removal. OG will correct me if I'm wrong... OG??

My advice?
If you still have your Sonus polishes, use them with the Lake Country pads. (if you don't, then I'd try to talk you into the Prima polishes) I would suggest getting an orange pad and a white pad. You'll probably only need the white pad, but you may find the orange one handy too.

On your curvy areas, you might want to consider the 4" pads in addition to the standard 6.5" pads. For most, you add these after you've learned on the 6.5" pads but at the same time they are very helpful on the MINIs curvy spots.

I'm sure you're not feeling up to another long day, but I don't think your swirls are that far out of reach! I think you just need to tweak a few things.

-Heather

 

Here's another tip for anyone out there just learning OR if you're about to use the PC on a different car than usual...

Start out by working on just a 2'x'2 (or thereabouts) section. Ideally, choose a nice flat, horizontal section.
Get this section perfect before moving on to the rest of the car!
(up until the point at which you would normally wax).

You'll find that focusing on just a small area and figuring out what combination of polishes, pads, timing, speed, pressure, etc. works best on your paint is the best way to polish. That way, after you've found the perfect combo, THEN you go on to the rest of the car.
It's much more efficient and less frustrating doing it this way.

In fact, even with all of our PC experience, this is exactly what Nick and I both do when we start polishing a car. You never know what exactly will work until you "get to know" the paint. A 2'x2' section will help you get to know it.

-Heather

 

Heather,
Thanks for the suggestion. I think this is a big reason for my procrastination. A small section wouldn't be so challenging, and I was debating on where to start. The horizontal or vertical. I think I'll need to get a stool so I can reach the center of the roof, however. I'll be applying Epic with the white pad that came with my PC as you suggested to me on the phone some weeks ago. Flo doesn't have any scratches nor swirls since I've been very careful with her washes. Now if I could talk my son into coming over for a tape party.
Sharon

 

And if you're only applying Epic then that's easy as pie anyway!

With applying Epic you really don't need to do all the trial and error on just a small section. Just dribble a little Epic (after shaking it very well) on your pad (2 strings of "spaghetti" in a circle around the pad), place the pad on the paint and move it around just a sec so it doesn't splatter when you turn it on, then turn on the machine and go! You'll have to add just a wee small bit of Epic after each major panel. After you've applied it all over the paint, then wait 45 minutes or so. Then wipe it all off with a MF cloth. Done!

Honestly, there's you'll find right away that you don't need to focus on just a small section to just apply Epic. Plus, you don't want to wipe off Epic right away anyway. Get it all over the paint and wait 45 minutes before doing so.

So get your son over and get to it! I promise it'll be easy as pie.

-Heather

 

Hee hee..... time for me to recall past due debts. Thanks, Heather. I think I can do this.