Maybe I'm a little slow but after reading through numerous past forums I'm even more confused than when I started about what to use and when.

1. How soon after I buy my MINI should I wax it?

2. I understand the difference between the synthetic "waxes" and the carnuba wax, but can they or should they both be used?

3. Does using a product such as ICE eliminate the need for "traditional" waxing?

4. What's the difference between a wax and polish? Should I be using both?
Is Zaino a wax or polish?

If someone could help me out it would be greatly apprectiated. I come from a family that never really took good care of their cars. I was usually the only one that would ever bother to wash/wax them but I didn't really know what I was doing then and I don't now... Thanks!

 

LOL - join the club! I've been here for weeksnow, and these fine folks are helping me see the light. Here's what I know (and I'm sure that Octane or someone that really knows their stuff will correct me where I'm wrong):

When to wax? Yesterday. Seriously, even on a new car it looks MUCH better waxed, and the paint is far better protected from the elements. Just be sure to properly clean it first (see below), as putting wax on top of contaminents just traps dirt and moisture BENEATH the wax...

It's generally accpeted that putting a SYNTHETIC on top of a NATURAL is better than the reverse, but most of the purists seem to like sticking within a single brand (Griot's, Meguiar's, etc. to reduuce the possibility of a poor interaction) and within a single category (natural or synthetic, possiblyfor simplicity).

Ice DETAIL SPRAY does NOT replace traditional waxing. Ice makes a liquid wax, however as well as the detal spray, so read the label (they're both clear and can be easily confused). Ice is a synthetic. I use Ice detail spray on my car, but I'll probably switch to Meguiar's when it runs out, as all my other stuff is that brand and the cost is more or less comprable).

A Polish is a very slightly gritty material that buffs out scratches and swirls from damaged paint. A wax is a SEALENT that keeps crap off the paint. Between them is a product called DETAILING CLAY, that you use after washing but before polishing or waxing to clean away contaminents off paint. Just waxing withourt polishing will make new paint SHINE!!

Polishers can be used by-hand or with a totally awesome power tool called a Random Orbital polisher, if you really want to go nuts. After using one, I'm totally and completely a convert -it's fast, safe and really fun, and the results are amazing. Here's my experience with one - even though the paint was meticulously cleaned a few times a week and was only two months old, my car looked MUCH better after this process, and I know now that it's sealed against moisture and dirt far better than it was from the dealership:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ad.php?t=75603

Here's what I recommend right out of the gates to get you started (each brand has different names, but this will give you an idea):

* Bottle of "detail spray" like Ice, Meguiar's Quick Detail Spray, etc.
* Bottle of wax (Meguiar's Gold Class is what I use so far, but there are tons of different ones)
* Bottle of Interior Detail Spray (for the dash, etc.)
* Bottle of leather cleaner/conditioner (if you have leather seats)
* Bottle of Glass Cleaner (Meguiar's is recommended by my local guy... I do not recommend "Invisible Glass" brand personally so far.
* Bottle of vinly/rubber trim protectant (for all that black plastic)
* 3" foam or microfiber applicator pads (for the wax - reusable if you put them in a ziplock bafggie afterwards)
* Bottle of wheel cleaner (dissolves brake dust in rims)
* Wheel Brush - Meguiar's makes a great one shaped like an Xmas tree that gets into all the nooks and crannies in the rims that only costs like $8
* Pile of microfiber towels, large and small (for everything from drying to ppolishing) - at least 8 or so as you can never have enough
Good bucket with grit guard (at least one, two if you're really ****)

I bought all of this a few things at a time, starting with the detail spray and wax, and moved up from there.

Beyond that, you can really get deep into the weeds fast, with random orbital polishers, all kinds of protectants, polishes in different grades, etc.but this will get you started and most everything should be on the auto section of Wal mart or Anderson's. See Griot's, Zaino's, Meguiar's and the ShowCarGarage.com web site for really specialized stuff.

This should get you started, but feel free to PM me if you have any questions or just ask 'em here - these people really know their stuff and are SO nice!

 

Detailing can very quite overwhelming at first, but once you understand it, it will become an addiction. First, you can wax your MINI immediately upon receiving. You do not have to wait 30 days. I personally recommend doing it within a couple weeks after picking up your MINI. The sooner you get some sort of protection on there other than what the dealer provided, the better.

Synthetic and carnauba waxes can be used together, although it is not necessary. Some people like to put on a couple coats of carnauba to get a really deep/wet look, and then seal it in with a couple coats of a synthetic wax since a synthetic wax will last longer than a carnauba.

A polish is used to remove swirls or other defects from a finish. A wax is used seal the paint providing a protective barrier from things that come in contact with your paint.

Hopefully someone can help you with your other questions as well...

Good luck!


edit: looks like I was a few minutes late

 

Depends on when your Mini was built (painted) New paint USUALLY should not be waxed for 90 days IMHO (except in extreme climates)

I have an 04 MCS and just finished Claybar and the 3 step Mequires process with an Orbital Porter cable machine.

Here: Run your hand over the finish..if it is not really smooth...Claybar time. Mini's coming from overseas have paint contamination a lot...Claybar (I use Mcquires) removes (actually lifts) these imperfections before waxing. (Smooth as a Baby's behind!) you can find it at Kragens or Pep Boys etc.

I live in the scortching Reno desert (in the summer it is hot and cold in winter...so I like PURE Carnuba wax ...PURE! I do not like the Cleaner waxes...too abrasive IMHO.

Zaino is really expensive stuff but is supposed to be the best out there. BTW: That BLUE Zymol is NOT Real Zymol...it is a Turtle Wax cleaner wax product licensed by Zymol (name only)

A VERY IMPORTANT STEP IS IN WASHING YOUR CAR....that is where most people pick up swirl marks etc by grinding in dirt particles. There is an excellent thread in detailing (use the search button on top) explaining how to wash properly (link to a site with movies!) I cannot stress the importance of washing properly. I use sheepskin mit (like the movie and Mequires wash....slippery stuff I am also lucky to have reverse osmosis water (our water is really bad).) I also use Microwipes extensively.

That new Turtle wax synthetic is also getting rave reviews....Synthetics have not let the paint breath here in the desert so i do not use them...Pure Carnuba for me...I hear that Harley Davidson has a great 100% pure carnuba but I am currently using Mequires (have had it a long time)....Polish for clearcoat finishes should only be necessary for fine scratches and swirl marks...Mequires Scratch X by hand for me and Mother's (also good stuff) machine polish when I break out the orbital for a real campaign (about 1 time yearly on my cars. I also use the PC random orbital when I wax...it is very gentle and saves a lot of work...stay away from those round $20 jobs....

The Mini is small enough that with some work...you should be able to achieve great results by hand!

Now if I could only get Ziplock to make a baggie large enough to put the Mini in!

Good Luck
jeff

 

I agree with what everyone had to say.

To simplify things, you have a few basic steps.

1. Wash
2. Clay bar
3. Polish
4. Wax

The washing is the most important. If you search around this section of the forums, you will see that people often mention preparation. How you prep your paint will make the difference. Washing, Clay and polish are all part of the prep. Some of us have been known to go "overboard" and tape everything off. I found this makes clean up alot better.

As for products, much has to do with personal preference. I use all Griots stuff because it works well and is *almost* Idiot proof. I am able to get good results without having to know that much. That being said, as I learn more, my results also improve.

 

I'm with you except for the layering...

A synthetic sealant needs to bond to a clean paint surface. This is why Zaino instructions have a Dawn wash step in front of the base coat... It needs you to strip away all the old waxes and oils before laying the sealant down. The sealant forms a molecular bond to the paint, so it needs to be 'touching' the paint. A wax 'floats' on whatever surface it is applied to.

You can layer a NATURAL WAX ON TOP OF A SEALANT but not the other way around. If you apply the wax first, the sealant never touches the paint... it just bonds to the outer molecules of wax (if anything at all) and will come off in the next good rain or wash.

For your first few months, it's really easy to get wrapped up in products when what you need to focus on is technique. Spend time reading the threads in this forum and learn the proper way to wash your car to avoid swirlmarks. Learn what happens when you get wax on textured plastic. Spend some time on the www.autopia-carcare.com site and read their how-to's.

For the products: get a decent wax/sealant that is fairly simple to use... Meguiars NXT jumps to mind. Get a quick detailer spray from the same manufacturer as your wax/sealant to keep them compatable. Get a good drying microfiber and buffing microfiber (Sonus makes some good stuff, but you will have to order via the web.) and a simple wool wash mit. Also get some auto shampoo... again, Meguiars makes some good stuff in the NXT line (don't use dishwashing liquid like your parents probably did). If you have window tint, get a glass cleaner that is safe for tint (not Windex) and some rubber/plastic treatment (303 Aerospace Protectant, Vinylex, Meguiars #40) to keep your wheels/arches black and your dash protected from UV. If you have leather seats, get a quality leather cleaner/moisturizer... Lexol makes a nice product that is available at Target, etc.

There are lots of other things you can get into once you know what all of the above products and treatments do... claybar, paint polish, car dusters, spray waxes, mechanical polishers like the PCDA, sealants, cleaner waxes vs 'pure' carnuba vs. sealants and the pros/cons of each... but all of these are the fluff that takes your car from 'shiny, protected and preserved' to 'better than showroom quality'. Driving a car that is kept in the 'better than showroom quality' takes dedication to keep it that way, but the nuts out here love 'em and love the reactions we get from folks on the street.

 

Thanks for all the great advice! It really clears everything up for me. I think the dealer may have applied a coat of wax when they took it in for detailing just before delivery because when I picked it up there were a few white streaks on the paint that looked like wax. So I think I'll just wait for a few more weeks and then do a coat or two of something. Thanks again!

 

One benefit of Ice detail spray that I forgot to mention, but that I love:

it works equally well on paint AND the black trim. not every product can make that claim, and m,ost actually leave white residue. With anything, wax or otherwise, what you use on paint is almost never what you use on the black plastic - Ice is very much the exception to that rule. That said, the actual vinly/plastic dressing will make it look even better and UV seals it too. I use the Ice for between bucket washings and then use the actual plastic dressing after I do a real hose wash.

And just put like a squirt of Dawn in a bucket of water and wash, and whatever wax the dealer put on should strip off -easy peasy...

 

One more question. How often is it recommended to wax? I've heard at least every six months, and I would imagine more often during bad weather or harsh climates... Oh, and what do you mean by "between bucket washings?"

 

Literally that - I only wash with a bucket once a week or so. the rest of the time, I just spritz on the detail spray and wipe it off. It's MUCH easier and you can do the whole Mini in like 10 minutes tops, and it gets off things like dead bugs and stuff before they really have time to bake on solid! As Ted, my locak detail guy wisely said: "It's much easier to take 10 minutes 2 or 3 times a week and keep the car looking showroom fresh than wait a few months and spend the whole afternoon trying to get it BACK into that shape." I'm finding he's totally right. it was the same in my family - I was the only one to ever wash the cars, and I had no freaking idea of what I was doing.

I wax when the surface feels less slick - after you wax, you'll know what I mean. Properly waxed, the paint is so smooth that it almost feels oiled beneath your rag... VERY smooth. If you're detailing you'll feel the difference when it's ready for a new coat. It ususally takes a few weeks to a few months, depending on the wax. Synthetics seem to last a tad longer, but traditionalists and pros all swear by the deep, "wet" shine of carnuba and other natural waxes.

Clay barring is optional - most people recommend doing it 2-3 times a year, while others clay once a month or even more. That really depends on where you live and how much crap gets on your car. Clay is GREAT for removing tar, hard water spots, acid rain, baked-on bugs and other hard-to-remove crap.

 

You are spot-on here. Every 6 months is a general guideline if your car sees gentile conditions... garaged in the evenings and moderate weather. If you add heavy weather conditions (lots of rain, snow, very high or very low temps), more time outside (no garage) or environmental challenges (acid rain or salt water nearby) you should increase the frequency.

I look at the way water beads on a CLEAN car after it rains. If the flat surfaces accumulate tall, well rounded puddles of water, the finish is still good. If the puddles get thin or take on more and more irregular shapes or just sheets away, the wax/sealant is running thin and should be recoated. I've gone out to the parking lot of my office 3-4 hours after a rainstorm and my car is the only one that is still wet... all of the others have had capillary action from dirt increased across the surface of the paint and the surface tension of the water broken by the same. It's kinda cool.

 

I think you got that backwards. The Carnuaba goes on after the synthetic sealer. (e.g., Klasse twins followed by carnuaba)

See http://autogeek.net/carwax.html

 

Yep, I was... someone corrected me. Thanks!

 

I'm always amazed every time someone says that. A $15 bottle of Z2 lasts about 2 years and will outperform anything else even without all the other zaino extras. It's probably as cheap as turtle wax...not to mention the time (=money) saved with the easier application and removal.

It's our detailing addictions that are expensive

 

I'm not sure if Zaino is easier to remove than all waxes... some of them, for sure.

Where Zaino really pays off is the durability. If you only have to seal/wax half as often, the hours you save are well worth any additional cost.

 

I agree completely! I just usually bite my tongue when people say that.

 

Actually, no you're both correct.

There is no one "Correct way". I've found that applying a sealent over a Carnuba helps make it last longer while having the benefits of both chemicals.

As for how often to claybar, the best way to know is simply by feel.

If your paint is covered with bonded above surface contaminants, your fingers rubbing against the freshly washed paint will sand like sandpaper, and the surface will be bumpy.

Although my car is garaged, it's been well over a year since I last claybarred it, yet my finish is still smooth as brand new glass. The reason is simple. If you regularly clean your paint, the above surface bonded contaminants won't have a chance to bond in the first place!

I maintain my paint between washes using Meguiar's Final Inspection--one of their professional line quick detailers. The smell is great!

Again, similar advice for how often to wax. You can wax every month if you want, or every few months. It depends on how your car is kept and how frequently you touch your paint. For me, when I start to see swirls, it's time to wax! Around every 2 to 3 months for me.

Finally, not all polishes are abrasive. Meguiar's #7 Show Car Glaze is a pure polish which doesn't contain any abrasives. However, their Cleaner Polishes like #80 or #83 do contain diminishing abrasives for removing swirls and defects.

Richard