Well, I've been staring at my R99s all winter as the sit stacked in my bottom floor while my R84s did the winter duty. I cleaned them quite well before storing them, but I finally got around to giving them a good wax/polish. I zymol'd them on Sunday, both inside and out--everywhere there's paint. Now they shine like never before, and they're super slick to the touch. I almost hate to mount them back because they look so good now. Will probably put them back on next week or the following. Temps are still dipping into the lower 30s at night a few days per week. Come on Spring! Can't wait to give my MINI it's first 2006 waxing as well.

 

I used Klasse on my S-Lites about a week ago and have driven about 500 miles since. They looked so shiny at first, better than new! Today I stopped at the self-serve wash and sprayed them with the soap...they look almost perfect. It makes a HUGE difference having them polished.

 

wat do u use to wax ur rims? im fed up with this f ' ng brake dust covering my wheels.

 

First, your brake dust will be reduced by 80-90% if you get some EBC Green pads. I run these all year long (except for at the track) and I love them. Even Hawk HPS's, which I have on the rear all the time, dust much less than stock.

Using a heat resistant wax (a polymer) on the wheels it will fill the pores and make the brake dust stick less and the wheels easier to clean. If you use a carnauba the affects will not last as long since the wax dissipates so fast.

 

BradB, do these pads eliminate the squeaky stock brakes? At least my stock brakes squeak when applying very light pressure - like going through a drive through our parking.

 

I have never had a squeel out of the EBC's. But when I first put them on I applied some anti-squeal spray to the backs of the pads.

My Pagid race pads don't squeak...they scream! It scares people on the sidewalks!

 

Did u have a problem with your factory pads before you changed them?

 

BradB, one more question - do you have a pic of your brakes with the Green Stuff EBC's on? I'm curious how much they show - I wouldn't want to drive around looking like a MINI Christmas (CR with Green pads showing ).

What about the Red Stuff EBC's? Any knowledge/experience with them? Still quiet w/ no squeaks? Less dust? Etc...

 

My factory pads worked fine...just choked the wheels with dust!

The green part of the pad shows a little, especially in the center....I painted the pads with BBQ black paint and that worked great. (see below)

The reds are more prone to squeaking and dust. (Than the Greens) They are a higher performance pad.

 

Brad,

Are the Greens relatively easy to install?

Rob

 

You know, I had an 84 5 series, and driven every BMW under the sun at my old job as a valet at a private club, and it never ceases to amaze me that BMW continues to use the crappiest, dirtiest pads on the autos they put so much time and engineering into and charge so much money for.

My pads are being swapped for EBCs as soon as I can sit in the driveway without freezing!

 

Piece of cake!

1. You pull off the wire clip (pull straight toward you) on the outside of the caliper. I have a $5 T-handled hook that I got at AutoZone made just for this task. This makes it a snap. Or use screw drivers to snap it out.

2. Remove the two 16mm bolts holding the caliper to the carrier. (they are viewed on the inside of the caliper area...stick your head in behind.) The caliper can be slid forward right off the rotor now.

3. The outside pad pushes inward and out. It practically falls out. The inside pad (against the piston) has a three prong centering clip holding it to the piston. (the clip is out of sight inside a detent in the piston. it is the same as the one that comes on the replacement Green pads) This means the inside pad takes a little more pushing to get it out. Just push straight out.

4. You can easily set the caliper (brake line still attached) on top of hub/strut area. It holds it securely so you don't have to hold the heavy caliper the whole time or bother tying it up.

5. Reverse procedure to slip new pads in. It may be necessary to push the caliper piston in (to slip the rotor back in between the pads) if the new pads are thicker than the old ones. A $5-7 piston pusher tool is available at AutoZone and makes this easy. Bolt the caliper back into position. Attach the spring clip by hand.

It takes me roughly 10 minutes per side not including taking off the wheel. I do this a lot because of swapping pads for the track.

 

theres a brake pad diy chance by octaneguy do a search, easiest thing to follow.

 

Just to add my 2 cents, replacing the brake pads was most of the most important cleaning things I've done. My white rims were black within 3 days, and now they go several weeks. I however use Mintex Redbox pads, they are slightly cheaper than the EBCs, and I have seen numerous reports of the greenstuff pads gouging the rotors. I was pretty scared installing brakes myself and did take a good hour on the first wheel but by the time I got to the 4th I did it in only 10 minutes. $75 for pads is a great deal anyway, some places will charge you $600 for the procedure.

 

What type of process and products do you use for cleaning your wheels? Mine are looking like **** and I hope to fix that soon, aka get some suggestions, buy some product and do it this coming weekend.

Leif

 

can you use something like Turtle Wax Bug n'Tar Remover on the wheels...they were spotless when I simply rinsed them and then put 2 coat of Zaino Z2 on them a year ago...but now a year and a winter later there's lil black specks in the textured part of my 8 spoke stock 15" wheels....and what to scrub it off with....toothbrush?

 

The tar remover will work, but I clay my wheels as needed throughout the year. It removes the spots.

Never use a toothbrush. They are far too stiff and the bristles are coarse nylon which can scratch. Always use a detailing brush instead of a toothbrush. I like the new Meguiars one and have several of these, too.