When I wax....Meguiars NXT....I first go along all the borders of the textured vinl applying the wax with my hand in a thin cotton sock...this way I have much more control and dexterity over where the wax is going , or not going. Then I finish the rest of the car with a pad or applicator.
Has anyone else tried this method?

 

I gave up and painted mine.....

 

No, never. Cotton fibers are not nearly as soft as microfiber and get matted down quickly when saturated with wax and it's rare to find socks that are 100% cotton. Most are a mix of polyester fibers which are deadly on paint.

I understand what you are trying to do about getting close to the trim. And that's great in theory. Just be cautious because socks, T-shirts, diapers, rags and such can scratch even though they "feel" soft.

 

painters masking guard

Where does one find these?

 

The last time I was in Home Depot they had a couple types. Plastic, soft and flexible. They were in the painting accessories aisle hanging along with things like tape, trim knives, etc. Lowes and other hardware stores would have something similar.

 

Cool, will def give these a try as the whole - getting wax on the wheel arches vs getting plastic protectant on the paint - is a PIA!

 

Quick question....Does Klasse AIO create this white stuff if it get's on the trim? Same goes for Klasse SG...

thanks
ep

 

I have yet to try Klasse' products - but based on their composition, I'd say No, they do not create the while residue. In my experience, typicall carnauba-based waxes that use silicone-resins for quick drying leave the white residue.

Examples: Anything Turtle Wax, or other cheap waxes you find at Wal-Mart (grrrr!)
Zymol's Cleaner Wax, which works really well for cleaning paint, as long as you keep it away from trim like the plauge!

Stuff that defintely won't leave white residue:
Zaino, Zymol's higher end waxes, P21S & S100, Stoner products....

 

BradB...uses the wifes toothbrush...thanks for my Friday laugh!!

 

True...I've used the Klasse twins for the past year and there's been no residue.

 

I had the same problem. Orange cleaner and a brush took it off. Carefull - orange cleaner will take wax off everything it touches.

 

Yep, last week used peanut butter (not chunky!!) and a toothbrush to take of the Meguiar's NXT wax that was on the molding. Worked like a charm. Who'da thunk it?!?!

 

I've finally found a product which consistently, and easily, removes wax - it's Honda Spray Cleaner and Polish. I've been picking it up at motorcycle shops. btw, isopropyl alcohol also works but it takes a lot more effort.

Best way I've found is to spray the Honda stuff on and let it soften the wax for several seconds (it foams on -- no drips). Then use a microfiber cloth to get all of the gunk out of the plastic pores. You might have to do this a couple of times to get out really old, hardened, wax buildup. But it will clean up!

Great stuff!

 

I should add to this great thread now that I've tried a few things:

Peanut Oil...hey, it works! Best option for cheap cost. But, the arches are left oily of course, and dirt sticks to oil. Then I'm scared to touch them with my wash mitt when washing the car in case the oil spreads to the paint. I started researching some other solutions.

Vinylex has a similar effect, makes them nice and glossy, but goes away in days. If you have it sitting around and no other option, it is OK.

303 Aerospace Protectant will clean it a little, keep them glossier, protect them, and seems to mark the wax harder to stick to them. It has so many other uses you should already have a bottle of 303, and if you don't want to buy another specific product, it works well.

Autoglym Bumper Care was made for exactly this, and works the best. I should have known when I saw so many recommendations. That being said it may only be for us nuts...a specific product, and the first time I went through a third of the bottle. It is thick and made to scrub the pourus plastic clean and adheres to it making a long lasting coating. Water actually beads up on the trim!

So those are my recommendation--pick whichever fits best to you.

 

I figured if Dawn is used to take wax off a car before Zaino, it might work on the plastic trim, so I put a little in a small plastic container, mixed it with a little water, and scrubbed with a toothbrush. I think it works pretty well and there's nothing left to clean up.

 

Real easy. $1.25 jug of peanut oil (by the EVOO) at Wal-Mart, dab on towel, wipe on plastic, off comes any wax leftover white crap. Bada-bing!

 

Or do this, took 1/2 an hour.

 

I've used peanut oil, 303 protectant, Mothers back to black, and now Meguiars trim detailer. Can't say much about the Meguiars yet, but so far peanut oil has worked best

 

Coat your vinyl well with a good dressing just BEFORE you wax and then it won't stick if you to happen to slop it over while waxing.

These applicators make super fast work of it. They fit your fender trim perfectly.

 

used on walls to touch up scuffs - it works like a champ getting off the white residue - just DO NOT get close to your paint with it.

 

I've gotten residue from Klasse...

 

I waxed PeeWee last Thursday with P21S. It took about two hours including a cursary clayjob on the hood. It also included about 15 minutes on Sunday taking the white residue off the wheel wells. The bottom line is I love P21S but it definetely will leave your plastic white it you get wax on them regardless of what their literature says.

 

as someone kindly suggested to me, i used peanut oil (the chinese type) and it not only removed the wax but it also made my mcs even "hotter" than it was, lol...
next time i'll try the IPA.

dave

 

yep... me too... to get rid of the mother fx wax... worked good....

used a rag to put oil on the molding... waited about 10 mins.... washed it off using soap and water...

 

This method has always worked good on all my vehicles, especially the MCSC. My favorite wax produc is "Liquid Glass"
http://www.liquidglass.com/index.htm

Happy Motoring