I have a lot of left over car soap from the Prima line. big jug of it. It is VERY STRONG SOAP it is NOT mild. It removes all the oil stains on contact on my driveway, one drop and they are gone.

I am wondering how strong it is using it with Klasse's AIO plus sealant glaze system? I know people say its iron tough, but really, chemicals of this power could be harsh for longevity. I am trying to figure out the best soap to use that is the most neutral after the klasse. I am giving up Epic. It is beautiful, but it does not last in the outdoors. I just doesnt. I use apply and buff by hand, I use a monster fluffy to buff off, no one keeps more on and applies such a coat like me that I know of. I do not want to buy hydro to keep it up, i want to switch to a real toughie like Klasse. Unfortunately, DP doesnt do Klasse, it once did as far as I know. I will go with autopia guys for that.

well, what about the soap?

 

By Prima "car soap", do you mean Mystique?

 

Nick here.
It seems like you posted with the best of intentions, but your interpretation of the phenomenon just doesn't add up.

There is quite simply no way a drop of any auto soap would remove an "oil stain" from a driveway. If your car had just leaked a drop of oil, then it is reasonable to believe that a soap could dissipate the oil and allow you to wash it away. That's the entire premise behind soap and surfactants.

Mystique is a mild, pH neutral wash that is environmentally friendly and biodegradable. It does not have the ability to spot clean oil stains from a driveway. It is absolutely impossible. I know exactly what is in the product and without any doubt it cannot do what you claim. It doesn't contain the ingredients required.

Perhaps MiniMaybe, a petroleum engineer, can explain what could have possibly happened in your situation.

With all this in mind, Mystique will not strip wax, including Klasse, Epic or whatever.

 

Maybe he's confusing Mystique with Dawn? Dawn will remove oil pretty well. But even with Dawn, it takes 5 or 6 back to back washes, before a synthetic wax will lose it's beading capability. Multiple washes with Mystique actually makes the paint look better, so not sure how you can call it Harsh?

 

I need some soap, send me your jug

Mark

 

I need some soap, send me your jug, I'll use it

By saying this I mean no car soap I have ever used can clean a driveway.

Mark

 

I remember this OP was very concerned about his wheels. I wonder if he might be confusing the purple Mystique soap with the purple Meguiar's Wheel Brightener that I told him about??

 

Drugs?
I dunno, I've never found anything which, with one application, will remove oil from concrete. Problem is porosity - the oil gets in the pore of the concrete which limits the contact of any solvent to the actual oil. So though soap has surfactants which change the wetability of the surface and help to release the oil, it by no means would displace oil from concrete with a just drop. Now if you poured chlorine bleach and oxidized the oil that is another thing - but why would you be using bleach on your MINI? Hydrochloric acid would dissolve the concrete and allow the surfactants to contact more surface area - but again I can't recommend using hydrochloric acid on your MINI either. You could burn the oil and eliminate it but this would probably damage your paint so don't use fire on the MINI either.
Best I can offer is to totally saturate your concrete with oil so you can't see the spot any more. Oh and send me your Mystique if you please. It is soooo strong that I can only use it twice a week for six months in a row before it totally eats my Prima Epic and I have to put on another layer.
Dang Nick - tone it down a little would you!

 

Wait a second. I was the first to reply, so I get the Mystique!

 

eh, who knows. it did remove it, i dont use concrete for a driveway, and my driveway is sealed. It is blacktop and in perfect condition. The spots remained for several days before it washed them off. Nothing cleaned my driveway better than Mystique, that's for absolute certain, not even dawn

It does dry out my hands and make them tingle, never had that before, and it's summertime so my hands are never dry/cold.

Griot's didnt do this, and mother's didnt.

Now i have to say Mystique cleans BETTER, but the concern was using it for other, very different substances. Acrylic AIO is very different from Prima's synth car wax.

 

you once told me you thought DP was brainwashing the forum before you signed on. hm.

 

I did? I doubt I used those words. Course I thought Meguiar's was the bomb at the time, until I found that Prima was superior in almost every way, and that decision came from actually using it.

As for your issues with Mystique..I have to agree with everyone else. Mystique won't remove waxes like Dawn does. I use Mystique in the correct proportion as the bottle states and have never had any problems with irritation.

I still think you are confusing Meguiar's Wheel Brightener with Mystique. They are both purple, but Wheel Brightener will do everything you mention..and it is a product that needs to be diluted.

 

at least initially,when you started using DP's stuff, you told me that you use several ounces more than it states as you get it in bulk for your business/promotional, that is why I use more.

 

I wash my Klasse-protected car with some kind of sudsing agent made by Sonus. When I wash it. Usually I can just take to the car wash, rinse it off, and wipe down. Klasse is the best stuff in the world IMO.

 

Yes, to answer your original question...
Prima Mystique is very safe on acrylic-based waxes/sealants, such as Klasse AIO (All-In-One) or Klasse Sealant Glaze, as well as non-acrylics. It will not strip or harm any type of wax or sealant. This goes for both it's recommended dilution with water as well as undiluted (i.e. you can pour your Mystique straight over your wax/sealant, including Klasse AIO, and it will not strip it).

-Heather

 

Hmmmm. What I said was that for Mystique, I prefer to use a bit more than the 0.5oz per gallon that's recommended on the bottle. So in a 3.5 gallon bucket, instead of using 1.75oz, I would use probably something closer to 2 to 2.5oz. That's my personal preference as it gives me a bit more lubricity. Purchasing by the gallon is cheaper than individual 16oz bottles. I still use less than typical 1oz/gallon mixes though.

Thanks for clarifying

Richard

 

I remember everything Richard says!

He is married and wouldnt date me though. :(

Well, good to know about the car wash. I really do like it, it is the best car cleaning substance possible. You can not wash for 3-4 weeks and it be completely stripped of gunk in one wash. All of the other cleaners I would have to go over a second time on the fenders and doors for that stuck on scum.

I am going to be using AOI klasse knowing that it will not look as good as Prima. I however live in a cold climate, its an outdoor car, and I need to do hit the car once in the fall then I do a weird thing in winter.

I first nail it perfect with a claybar, polish some areas if needed, then I wax fully the thing, do the Black Wow on the trim, strip the rubber gasket/weather stripping things and treat them, make the car look spiffy.

then, the weird thing is I wax one area at a time in the cold in a friend or mother's garage. I cannot wait for a whole car to dry, I did this once and it was until 1 AM when it dried hard. So, I switched to sections. One week I do roof, next i do rear, etc. I do this NOT for looks but to keep up a layer of wax. I sometimes cant wash for a couple of weeks, but at least most is getting re-waxed. Now, I was GOING to do Klasse Sealant Glaze for huge durability. The AOI has super fast drying time, that is KEY to not wanting to be in a 45-48 degree temps for hours on end.

But, you know what? Where I live it wouldnt be a great idea. There are so many contaminants and road crap that stick to the paint that I would want to clean it/bar it regularly with more than soap. If i lived in even colder weather I would just probably use "SG" on top. I do get to wash every two weeks in the worst of the winter on Long Island.

+1 for global warming!

I plan also to "top" with p21s. This also is a fast wax and also doesnt get stuck on trim. I need those two attributes. The cleaner and light polisher in the AOI makes it ideal for commando styled detailing like I have to do. P21s will be for when I have some time to nail the front and main parts of the car for a nice event or some extra time off. I hear that looks is fantastic and adds a few weeks of wax. I'm a fan of carnauba based waxes in winter, they last much longer than they are supposed to. It hardly snows here, it mainly rains and is cold and dry, so its not that sort of harshness that makes it hard to detail, its the outdoors and 25 degree weeks on end sort of thing.

I wish DP sold the klasse system still. They are the ones that explained it to me and got me interested in it. I might use Epic from may-september as it just looks perfect, nice balance, only bested by a high grade carnauba (which is terrible to use in the summer sun for longevity! cold = great, hot = melt/gums, catches dust, erodes faster)

 

I would reconsider adding the Klasse Sealant Glaze (SG) step over your Klasse All-In-One (AIO), and here's why...

Several years ago now, Klasse was forced to make a small chemical change in AIO in order to comply with California's VOC regulations. This small chemical change, quite unfortunately, resulted in a significant decrease in AIO's durability. Fortunately, the other great attributes of AIO have remained the same (i.e. paint cleansing and filling, not to mention extreme ease of use).

Of course, if you have a bottle of AIO from severalyears ago then you are a lucky one and don't have to worry about the durability issue. The old AIO had excellent durability. Unfortunately, there is no way to tell definitively from the bottle which version of AIO one might possess. You can take a guess based on when you bought it but even then it's hard to say... unless you actually test your particular bottle for durability.

(by the way, this formula change made it difficult for us to sell as much Klasse and thus our demand for it plummeted... which is the primary reason we haven't been selling it for the past couple of years)

You probably already know that, unlike AIO, SG can be a bit of a pain to work with... unless you apply super-super-thin AND wait for at least several hours or better yet a day to remove AND you spritz a bit of distilled water on the paint as you remove it. It can be even more stubborn in cold temps. That said, once you have done it a few times and have a good app and removal system down, it's not that bad. Some people just don't have the patience for it though.

I used to be a huge fan of AIO... until the formula change. It was very sad when it had to happen.

So, if you want to use the Klasse system and need winter durability for your harsh New York weather, I would strongly recommend you use both AIO and SG.

Alternatively, you could use Amigo and Epic, which would protect you through your harsh winter weather. For supplemental protection (and mostly peace of mind if you need it ), you can always add a bit of Hydro with each wash in the winter since you're able to wash throughout the winter (of course, you can add the Hydro step with either system- Prima or Klasse).

Either way, you'll need more than just AIO to protect through your winter.

-Heather