I know this is not the right forum but I thought I would ask the mini crowd first. I am researching higher quality paints than just standard rattle can and was hoping someone with paint experience can point me in the right direction to using 2 part chemical cure paint (or "2k paints").

I have access to a spray facility and plan on visiting some auto paint suppliers but if possibly was wondering if anyone had experience with 2k aerosal paint as well. They have these cans with the chemicals inside and once you shake it properly it breaks a glass container on the inside mixing the catalyst with the polymer.

The chemical cure and bond of the paint makes for an industrial finish as appose to standard solvent based paints.

Thanks,
k

 

I no nothing of this kind of paint, but it sounds like the widget that some beer bottles/cans have in them to make it like it is "On Tap"

Mark

 

Yes, you are right. Guinness in a can has something like that...

 

Here we go... Google revealed something.

http://www.repaintsupply.com/cat_spraymax.cfm

 

what is it that you want to know.

 

Now if I can just find custom colors in this system. Not the most cost effective way but eliminates the mixing hassle and cleanup for small jobs...

http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?i...emType=PRODUCT

 

I kind of started answering my own question. But I was wanting to know if 2 parts paints were really available in aerosol form. I also was wondering if there is a certain type of 2 part paint (brand) that is better than the other. Also what minimum air compressor would be needed if going the spray gun route? I have a small 21gallon compressor which I could use. I can go to my dads if I need a bigger one.

Its for painting wheels stripped down to the metal. I realize powder coating would be better but a higher quality chemical cured paint seems to be a happy medium as far as cost to get higher quality more durable finish over standard wheel paint.

And lastly more information:

http://www.fluonova.com/2K-Aerosol.htm

 

you can do OK with paint on rims, but thell chip easily.
have you priced out PC? I cant imagine it being all that expensive to do a set of rims

 

I know here in Denver I found a shop that will blast and PC wheels for $45/wheel. Problem is the center piece is plastic and would need to be painted to match.
BTW - I love Guinness and have liberated the widget from many a can.

 

if you are using an HVLP gun then it only requires 12-15 psi.
I would recomend using Imron brand paint for rims. you can get it in a single stage and is the same paint they use on big rig frames and cabs. these trucks are usually asked to do duty in the million mile range!

in al honesty though i think that by the time you buy the etching primer, and paints, you will be spending more in the long run then if you powder coated them.
JMO.

 

I've used the spraymax 2k cans (both single stage and bc/cc) for motorcycle projects and have been very happy with them. The nozzle atomizes paint very well for a can and it's pretty easy to lay down a nice slick finish. Not quite as good as a gun but can't beat them for small jobs.

Not the greatest pic but most recently shot the tank and seat with spraymax 2k single stage black

 

normally I'll roll my eyes at a thread resurrected from years ago but in this case there have been new developments in what's available.

To explain - modern clears and primers are two part products that are mixed product + hardener and applied with a spray gun ... they have a fairly limited shelf life once mixed but dry to the hardest finishes. (the base color coat is not two part and is 'soft', that's why it must be covered with a clear)

Recently specialty companies have been releasing primers and clears in a new rattle can. The can holds both components in sep' compartments. When ready to paint, a provided tool is used to pierce the activator section inside the can to yield a product same as the the gun mix. As a side effect, the mixture, even once combined has a longer shelf life in the rattle can due to isolation from air ....

an example:
http://www.eastwood.com/paints/2k-ae...ay-paints.html

I haven't tried this stuff yet but HAVE tossed half cans of 2 part clear and primer bought for small jobs so NEXT time may give this a try

Use a new 2 part rattle primer

then base coat from someplace like automotivetouchup.com

then finish with rattle 2 part clear . . . .

COULD be same quality as what needed getting the guns out b4 and mixing the products as needed . . .

 

That is true, but one must remember two things: 1. HVLP, per gov't regs, is 10psig AT THE AIR CAP. 2. If using an HVLP you need to have a compressor that can supply 20scfm of air at that pressure. HVLP means High Volume, Low Pressure, and is referring to the amount of air used, NOT the paint.

Keep in mind too that the rheology of the paint is important as is the projector (tip/needle/air cap set-up) of the gun. Highly thixotropic paints and/or colors take different set-ups and spray techniques than do paints of lower viscosity and/or solids and/or rheology levels.

High thix paints can be successfully sprayed at viscosities as high as 50 #3 Zahn cup (practically a milkshake!) and achieve a nice finish... all it takes is practice and the right equipment set-up. (You don't want to run a paint of this high vis with a siphon or gravity feed gun, you'll need a pressure pot and a good fluid regulator to properly deliver paint to the gun.)

Regards,
XLXRider... OEM Automotive Paint Engineer for the last 40 years.
2013 BRG Clubbie... LOVE this air-conditioned go-kart, yes I do!