Yup, thats how I do it. Otherwise you will just remove the clear by the time you get it smooth.

Mark

 

Ok so if I hear you correctly here is the plan: I get a bottle of paint and clear coat. Using a toothpick apply the paint in very thin small coats waiting at least a couple hours between. Fill the chip to the surface. Use Langka to knock it back down a bit. Then use the same process with the clearcoat and continue above the paint surface and then use Langka to knock the clear coat back down so the it is smooth with the existing surface.

 

Thats how I do it.

Mark

 

I use a toothpick as well, just to be sure the paint fills the entire chip. But I don't really put it on in thin coats, I just blob it on and wait. When I'm done the paint blob is probably 1/16" above the surface. The Langka will take off the excess to just below surface. I do the same with the clear - blob it on and let Langka remove it to flush.
I'm sure there is no real wrong way to do the process. Just be patient with the chemical and allow it to work. I usually put a dab of chemical on the paint blob for about a minute and then start smoothing with a cloth covered plastic scraper. You won't need much pressure to start removing the blob since it is really the chemical doing most of the work.

 

great work guys. thanks for the info this was helpful for me as well.

 

i use the autosharp pens. i blob it on also. they match pretty perfect IMO. then after i apply it i wait a few minutes and take a MF towel and a mild paint polish to it. rubbing over it quickly- it removes any excess paint or blobs. then buff off the polish. then i let it dry then do a coat of clear. although it seems with the autsharp pens the clear is not needed? i do it anyway, then do the polish thing again. i've tried it with a plastic car wrapped in cloth and just a cloth seems to work the same in both cases IMO.

i have the langka kit but, it seems like the polish trick works better for me. or maybe the langka kit IS just a bottled polish kit. can't recall what polish it is i use right now. megs stage 2 or something i had sitting around before i got the klasse twins. anyhow it works effectively and quickly for my needs.

 

^+1
I highly recommend multiple thin coats over 1-2 heavy coats. It's also best to allow each coat to dry thoroughly before adding the next coat.


We've also had great results with Autovisuals. It's easy to use and they have excellent color matching.

Plus, Autovisuals is a NAM vendor!

NAM Vendor Directory

-Heather
(from upstate New York)

 

I've had great results with the Microbrushes. You can find them on my store
http://www.showcardetailing.com/esho...p?id=167&bc=no

Just dip it into the factory touch up bottle, and the paint just flows into the chip.

Here's a before and after








Click this link to see a Flash Slideshow of the process
http://www.showcardetailing.com/link...s/protouch.swf

 

toothpick with the tip tapped flat works the same.

 

Wow is that invisible ink???

Uhm, it doesn't work the same unless you've tried the microbrushes. I've tried them both, and find the microbrushes work so much better.

 

actually, i have a set myself to do larger chips like 3mm.
but the flattened head toothpick works for most of my tiny 1mm chips.

 

Hahaha, oh ok.

 

the invisible ink was hilarious BTW.

 

I tried holding my monitor over a flame, but I still couldn't get it to appear!

Anyone care for some smoked Samsung?

 

I gotta get in the garage and do this...
- Thanks for clarify-ing the processes everyone - I was wondering the same thing about the "paint then clear" process

 

Desert MINI just quoted me $28.50 + tax for the Hyper blue/clear coat combo.

Do you use the clear coat pen also?

 

I used the clear on mine for 1 chip I touched up on the bumper. Later the bumper got repainted through the dealer so my terrible touch up job ended up getting fixed nicely as well.

 

you guys would be better off ordering from morristown mini and paying for the shipping. i paid 8.50 plus shipping for BRG.

 

i called to confirm and their rates have gone up since then it's now $19 plus shipping. might still be less for some.

 

i was just wondering how to fix pebble induced damages on my mini...especially the front.....i live in las vegas and there are a lot of big trucks carring small pebbles on the truck....unfortunetly those pebbles hit my car in the front occassionally...and made these little marks which seem unpleasant after i get my car washed... in my opinion, i don't think it's gonna cost that much...since they can paint over those marks??? what do you guys think???? any help? much appreciation...thanx.

 

I wash the car well and then go about filling in the nicks with touch-up paint. After it dries (30 minutes or so), I come back and smooth over the blob of left-over paint with a product called Langka, which is an abrasive paste that 'melts' new paint and leaves old, well cured, paint pretty much alone. I'll polish a bit with Scratch-x and maybe a finer abrasive to shine it up and move on.

The tiny chips are gonna happen on our flat-nosed little cars... no getting around it. I'm just hoping that the touch-ups will get me a few more years before I break down and respray the bonnet and bumper.

 

Do the touch-up paint and then ClearBra it.

 

thanks.but where can i buy touch up paints and scratchx or clearbra products?

 

I ordered touch-up paint from the dealership. I got scratch-x at pep-Boys. No clear bra here.

 

Most Tint Shops also do Clear Bra's. they are well worth the investment. i'm going to respray and apply the bonnet with my Gov't Stimulus check.