It's time for me to give my boy his first detailing. I bought the super bundle which came with a whole bunch of things I've never used before. Can someone provide an idiots guide of which products should be used together and in which sequence. I know you wash first before you wax (I'm dumb but not that dumb) and I realize the wooley mitt is for washing. I think it comes with some special drying cloths. What's next? Do I wax with one of the little sponges? Do I use the hydro next after that? I've got stuff for wheels and I think glass. When do I use that stuff? Do I use one of the fancy micro-fiber cloths or will an old T shirt work?

 

No the the old t-shirt.

Lemme look up the super bundle and post a full response in a few mins...

Hmm, odd that there are no polishes in the bundle?

• 1. Wash w/ Mystique and Mitt
• 2. Dry with Waffle Weave Drying Cloth
• 3. Apply Epic with Paradise Skinny Applicator Pad(s)
• 4. While Epic drys work on the other stuff.
  • 4a. Use Clarity on windows with Paradise Glass Microfiber Cloth (thin yellow cloth)
  • 4b. Clean interior with Nero using Paradise Buffing Cloth
  • 4c. Apply Wheel Shield to wheels, I use a Paradise Skinny Applicator Pad for that.
  • 4d. Apply Wizards Black Renew to the trim, no sure how since I don't use it.
• 5. After doing the swipe test to be sure Epic is fully dried, buff off with Monster Fluffy Microfiber

After 2-3 washes and every 2-3 wash follow, spray Hydro as you dry (a little goes along way.) Gently work it into the paint as you dry.
Between washes use Slick to get a light layer of dust/dirt off.

Thats basically it, anyone else want to chime in?

 

Hooo-kay.

1) Wash with Mystique. Use the wool mitt and about 1oz of Mystique per 5 gallons of water. Do the wheels/tires last, and use a junky sponge/rag for them, if you have one - DON'T use the mitt on your wheels/tires.

2) Dry with the Waffle-Weave towel(s). Again, use a junky towel/rag to dry the wheels/tires (that old t-shirt would come in handy here )

3) Apply Wheel Shield to wheels (use one of the skinny pads) and let dry ~ 1 minute, then buff off w/one of the gray microfibers.

4) Apply Epic (use a VERY small amount - Heather says 1-2 tablespoons for the whole car but it's pretty hard to do that by hand) to painted parts of car using another skinny pad. DON'T get it on the black textured trim, but don't panic if you do, just wipe it off right away. Let it dry ~ 30 minutes but in FL humidity might take longer. To test to see if it's ready, swipe a clean finger across a waxed section. If the swipe mark is clean and not streaky, it's ready to buff off. If not, wait longer! Use a Monster Fluffy microfiber (the fluffy white ones) to buff wax off.

--These things you can do while the wax dries--

4) Wash windows inside and out with Clarity and the window microfiber (the thin, slippery one).

5) Clean/treat all interior vinyl (dash, seats if you have leatherette, etc) w/Nero and another skinny pad or two.

6) Treat/clean all exterior vinyl (textured trim, wiper covers, cowl vents if you're feeling adventurous, and side vents) w/ Wizard's Black renew and a skinny pad.

7) Vacuum, whatever else you feel you need to do. Don't forget to buff off the Epic when you are ready!

8) Let the Epic cure for 24 hours - don't wash, add another coat, etc, until the 24 hours is up. Then if you feel like you want a 'security' layer (I do this because I wax by hand even though I have a PC, just to make sure I didn't miss any spots), go ahead and do it after 24 hours, same way you did the first one - let dry, then buff off.

9) For the next 3-6 months, all you have to do is wash with Mystique, spray Hydro on each panel as you dry with waffle-weave MFs, and dress trim w/Nero, wash windows, and do your interior as you please. You can use Slick with a Monster Fluffy if you feel like the car is essentially clean, just not shiny (I do this after it rains), or Hydro and a Monster Fluffy if you feel like it needs major shine boost.

There, I think I hit on everything!

 

Aww Jeremy I didn't mean to steal your thunder...I must have been writing my book there while you posted that :(

 

No problem, we both gave the same advice so clearly we must have the right idea atleast.

 

for us and our detailing smartness!

Off to the beach with me and Clara!

 

Interesting, you all rock, now I have to go buy some supplies from my local folks down in Denver. I have a lunch/roadtrip planned for next Wednesday in their area.

I'm glad this question was asked.

Don S. I thought I knew how to wash and wax, guess I didn't!

 

Thanks guys. I just printed out your instructions and if there is no rain this evening, I will put them to good use.

 

Another thanks for the question- this bundle is on my Father's Day list so hopefully I'll be in the same boat soon.

Another question, can any of the Prima products be used as the lubricant for a clay bar-like slick? I noticed a clay bar is not in that kit but I want to get that as well to start completely fresh. I have seen the nice clay bar kit in Griots but I don't want to duplicate products if one of the Prima products is all I need for that process.

 

^^ im having trouble understanding your question. Slick is the lube
Prima recommends for clay.

you can use distilled water if you want, actually. i usually use the
cheap meg's maroon bottle QD as lube.

 

+1, the Meguiar's clay is good stuff too & both can usually be found at a local auto store

 

My wife calls me a Prima Idiot every time a new box arrives from DP...

 

i hide from my wife when a box arrives. jk

she doesn't care.

 

+1 again, its cheaper and easily availible.

Be sure to post lots of pictures!

 

Cool! Thanks for the tip on Meguiars clay and QD, I have seen that around town but was not sure if it was better or worse than the stuff DP or Griots offers. I guess I'll also have Slick if I get he super budle too, that was my question-is Slick the stuff to use with clay which you answered-thanks.

 

Did Jake's FIRST Epic today. Nice!!! Didn't know about the "streak" test (only noticed it in a couple of places).

But, my question is: How do you clean the applicators? I used round MF sponge style.

Thanks to all the Prima experts!

 

I wash them out (before the Epic has times to dry in the pad) with dish soap and warm water. Massaging out the wax, then soak in a mixture of vinegar/water to get out everything thats still hiding in the pad. With polishes you can usually skip the vinegar step, because it won't dry in the pad beyond what dish detergent can get out.

 

No, actually it is not . Straight Slick will work, but it is a waste of product and therefore too expensive. Actually what DP recommends is if you are going to use Slick cut with water by 50%. Half the cost, twice the fun!
For clay I just use the soapy wash water from my pre-clay wash. Even cheaper and even more fun !

 

i wasn't saying wat you recommend. i was recommending wat
DP's lube would be.

 

wow, car looks great. i like those unique stripes too.

warm water and soap is what it use. if i cant get to washing the
pads real soon before the polish/wax dries up in the wax, i just
put it in a bucket of water. (separating water based and polymer
will help too).

 

I have determined after Monday's polishing session that I do NOT like the concave pads (the ones that dip in in the middle).

I'm sure I could blame part of it on myself not paying quite close enough attention, but it's easier to blame the pad I made a little burn spot in one of my boot stripes coming up out of the plate recess. It didn't do anything other than take a bunch of black off the stripe so that the chrome beneath shoes through a little in the spot, but it bothers me.

Flat pads for me from now on!

 

First, hats off to Jeremy and MLWagner for great instructional summaries! So many of you NAMers are so knowledgable about the Prima line and related goodies that I don't even need to post anymore! I'm not going anywhere though...

Mini-hound- You're right. We need to include a simple how-to info sheet with our Paradise Bundles. Jeremy and MLWagner have you covered, but I think we'll create something that we can start including in the packages for this purpose.

Thanks for the idea!

-Heather

 

MiniMaybee is correct.

Not only is undiluted Slick a waste and expensive to use as a Lube Spray, it also is a tad too concentrated in its lubricity for optimum results. The point of a Lube Spray is to create a little bit of a chemical cushion, if you will, as you clay. Slick is so concentrated that it almost creates too much of a cushion, thereby diminishing your clay's effectiveness by a bit.

Having said that, it is perfectly fine to use Slick as a Lube Spray, even undiluted. Just know that for tough cases of claying, you'll lose a little effectiveness.

So, either dilute Slick with water (50/50 is easiest to remember but really you can dilute it a good bit further... it really doesn't take much), use a dedicated Lube Spray by another brand, or add a few drops of your favorite car soap (Mystique?? ) to a sprayer of water. All of the above make fine Lube Sprays. Lube Sprays, for the most part, IMO, are not a chemical category which is not as picky as others. I personally use whatever is handy or most convenient that day.

Last, Prima will soon be coming out with a dedicated Lube Spray of its own... probably by the end of the summer.

-Heather

 

Red Scooter
It looks like you did a Wonderful job!!!!!

 

Jake looks gorgeous!!! Tomorrow he will look even glossier and deeper, since Epic continues to fully cure for 24 hours after application/removal. It's part of the fun of Epic!

As has already been said, it's best to clean wax applicators (or wax pads) with warm water and some dish soap like Dawn. If you find the wax is being stubborn (common with many of the more durable synthetic waxes these days), work in some vinegar or rubbing alcohol, then wash again with soapy water. Air dry.

*Applicators used with Epic should be washed ASAP or Epic will cure in the applicator, making it very difficult and sometimes impossible to completely clean. In contrast, water-based polishes (like Prima polishes) can be left for a very long time and will wash out easily.

If applicators are cleaned properly after each use, they should last for years. (or until you lose them )

-Heather