My first response to this debate is ultimately to each his own!

That said, there are benefits to spritzing Hydro on the entire car before drying as long as you don't overdo the quantity (which seems difficult for most! ). Why? It actually prevents the water from drying on the paint as quickly as it would without Hydro (to a degree anyway)- and this helps prevent water spots. And, as ImagoX found, you can usually use even less Hydro this way.

However, if you use too much and it dries on the paint then it can get a little smeary as you dry (or at this point, since it's already dried, then you're really buffing not drying). It's not a problem though- you just need to buff it a little and/or add another very wee spritz to loosen it.

So, you're both right in that both techniques work well- they just have pros/cons and going around the whole car first assumes you're not overusing the product. It's actually yet another example of Hydro's flexibility... it's pretty forgiving in the application technique you use.

I was teaching the "spritzing the entire car first" technique at the Dragon because I could (almost always) monitor how much Hydro was being used and therefore illustrate some of the benefit in doing it that way.

And yes, as you have found, you don't need to "buff" Hydro when it's used on a wet surface... you just dry and go! It's beautiful stuff that way.

-Heather

 

Blessed are the cheesemakers ... uh, I mean peacemakers.

 

I suppose Ken's gonna go pout now, and I can't wait to hear Matt with his chest all puffed out.

 

I use a combo of the Cali Water Blade and the large Griots microfiber towel w/ the built in pockets

 

why would i go pout when im correct both times?

1) spritz and wipe as you go = OK! per heather (to each his own!)

2) buffing not necessary = OK! per heather

From what i see, im still at 100% accuracy.

 

Heather was really just trying to make you feel good Ken.

Actually I spray as I go and never need to buff either (but don't tell ImagoX).

 

yah, i know...

yah, i kinda like to mist and wipe each panel at a time... as i do for
claying and polishing.

 

I don't use just one drying towel. Prima Waffle Weaves are great. I like having two on hand although you could get away with one, you really can never have too many drying towels. For Meguiars, their Microfiber Super Suede Drying Cloth is one of the best I've ever used. It looks like a Chamois, but that's only in color. It holds water like an Absorber, but you don't need to use the blotting technique to hold the most water.

So I tend to use a combination of the Suede Drying towel and the Prima Waffle Weave--the WW for picking up the majority of the water and the Suede towel for any details that may leak.

But I'm also now using compressed air to blow water out of the crevices, so that makes a huge difference too.

I don't use my Absorbers much, unless I've got a really huge car and also if my WW and or Suede towel is dirty!

Recognizing "damage" is the key here. Over at the Dragon, one MINI owner took her car to the local car wash, and came back with deep grooves all the way around the car thanks to those wonderful spinning brushes. That $4 car wash is probably the most expensive lesson she will learn on her MINI.

Damage doesn't come just from the brushes of course. It comes from the guy who's drying off your car--or just as bad--at the hand washes--where the dirty rags used to clean the 100th car that was last seen on the ground, is being used to wipe off your paint.

While there is obvious damage like gouges and huge scratches, swirls are probably the single most common damage from the car wash. I see them everyday--it only takes one car wash to get them, and imagine what months or years of car washes will do. Most people who aren't OCD, don't even realize that Swirls are a byproduct of the "neglect" that occurs when you don't take care of your paint. Most people, especially with black cars, that aren't OCD, think the scratched, swirled, hazy look is just a natural occurrence of owning a car. Not saying that you're like that, but it's pretty common. Now of course, not all colors will show swirls as readily. Pure Silver, Pepper White are examples that are harder to see swirls--but look at your car under a street lamp at night and you will see just how bad the finish is. This applies for any paint, not just the lighter ones.


This technique works great if you've got a waxed car. Otherwise the water won't sheet off and leave your car mostly dry.

Since this has been another lively debate here on NAM, I figured I better stick my head in it as well--as one not so infamous president of a MINI club once said to me---"Where there's trouble, there's Richard".....

I use both techniques of spraying a panel or spraying the whole car depending on the conditions. If it's extremely hot outside and the water has the potential to dry before I can wipe it down, then I will spray each panel and wipe it off. This way I can rewet a specific panel if needed.

If heat isn't an issue, then I will just go around and mist the entire car before wiping it dry. For me, being able to wash the car outside, and drive it into my shop for drying out of the sun is most ideal--but not always feasible due to the number of cars there. Just like polish, you don't want your paint to heat up in the sun, otherwise everything will evaporate.

 

even your skillz, octaneguy?

 

Sometimes I have to wonder if Ken is drinking too much Hydro!

 

arrogance.

 

Oh Ken is definitely drinking too much Hydro. I keep telling him that he only needs a little bit and that a little goes a long way! Other than that, there's nothing wrong with drinking Hydro if you want to. Don't fault Ken for that! (just kidding out there... please don't drink Hydro!)

-Heather

 

I usually just blow on my car....

no joke....i have an air compressor and i use the jet end to blow off all i can then use a 100% terrycloth towel.....

 

I use cloth diapers to wipe down my Mini. Just buy a new pkg of them, prewash and dry them first, then they're really good to absorb moisture without scratching or leaving swirl marks on the paint. I use them also for buffing off wax.

 

Richard,
Thanks for backing me up on this with solid tech speak. I know I am not just making this stuff up about car washes ruining finishes or that they DO NOT take good caution in washing/drying...and it bugs me when people claim that there is NO risk in visiting these places.

TJM

 

I just came off of a heated debate off a professional detailers forum where the long time car wash detailers were arguing with me that Dirt Guards and Grit Guards are unnecessary, that they cost money and waste water, and the sea sponges are much better than lambswool wash mitts because they last longer--they don't mention anything about what it does to the paint--and that tunnel car washes are safer than washing your car at home.....

One guy had the nerve to accuse me that I'm doing a disservice for my customers because of my "inefficiencies" at washing a car using two buckets with Dirt Guards?? The mentality of some people on the net who claim to be knowledgeable is astounding! Just because I told him that I felt Dirt Guards were worth it to reduce the risk of swirling the paint, he called it a Dog and Pony show???? WTF?

Trust me, this thinking is common up and down the ladder-from consumer to professionals alike.

Richard

 

OG, I know what you mean when people don't know that swirls are byproducts of poor washing. I was talking with a friend's dad who owns a beautiful car, a Maserati Cambiocorsa. I told him I could take the swirls out, and he said "what are swirls, I thought those were always there." I want to detail this car sooooooooo baaddddddd.

Quick question for OG: Do you ever detail cars and just do a wash and wax without getting all of the swirls out? I have a number of customers who have wanted this and I have done it but it drives me absolutly crazy and it makes me anxious knowing there are still major swirls in it.

 

I know how you feel!!

re: washing
Yes, I've done it. When I first started doing it, I kinda did a little extra--ya know?? Did a little bit of polish, and a bit more....but no longer because a 2 hr wash and wax turned into 8 hours.....these days, with a shop and fixed rent each month, I tend to accept more types of work that in the past I wouldn't do. If a customer wants a wash, I'm more likely to do it, though I'm grumbling the whole time--cause I know I'm going to get compared to their local car wash and while I know I'll do a better and safer job for the paint, there's always someone that's unhappy and will say their local car wash does a better job at vacuuming, etc...

When I was mobile, I didn't do that kind of work though because gas would have eaten up any money brought in.

As to your question, for me, and only me, as long as I don't have to decline higher paying work just to wash a car, and I know that it's not going to cause me a lot of grief, I'll tend to accept the work and put aside my personal gripes. ...for an hour.



It does drive me nuts to see a black car come in for just a wash and wax though. Although if they are paying really really cheap--the pain is a lot less--just wash and Hydro. Just make sure that if you use 1/4 bottle of Hydro on that car, that you get paid enough to cover it!

 

Yea, when I just wash and wax, I usually charge a good price that will cover the supplies (by cover, I mean cover and then some) and then add that on to an "hourly" wage kinda thing I created. O well, money is money.

 

I use many types of materials to dry my car, depending on what part I am drying.

Terry cloth for rubber, tires, wheels, drainage areas around openings, and any part under the car.
Chamois for the quick pass over the body.
Air compressor for blowing out nooks and crannies.
MF towels for final pass.

 

I don't know if this is hilarious or tragic.

 

Why?

 

Res ipso loquitur.

 

eh? This isn't a tort claim, so how does, "the thing speaks for itself" apply? And they call me nuts.

 

it applies to anything that speaks for itself; as in you asking why your obsessiveness could be either hilarious or tragic.