Lucky Dog Tune
I'll bet you asked for a flash by shipping the ECU to him. He doesn't have the ability to flash a free-standing ECU. In order to make the ECU be happy so that it can be re-zapped, he has to:
Given his modus operandi (he really is an artist), and the way LDG does business ( small local shop), my advice was that he should only do flashes at his shop, or at concentrated local group "pulley parties" in places where a dyno is available. He told me he was planning a "party" in Miami this month where at least 10 people had signed up.
Also note the posting by CmdrVimes (Matt) about 5 above here in a response to 1FSTMINI:
BTW -- John's "mail order flash" would be a LOT easier if he had a wiring harness into which he can plug your ECU. Unfortunately, it appears that in order to program the ECU, there are a number of VALID SENSOR tests that have to be passed. The only way that John has found that he can zap a mail-in ECU is to tie up an entire MINI. If anyone has a solution to this problem, I know that John would be forever in your debt
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- bring a MINI into his shop (it's usually his test "mule"),
- swap your ECU into the "mule",
- do the flash using the "mule's" OBD2 port,
- try the "mule" with your ECU to make certain that the flash "took",
- pull your ECU and replace the "mule's" ECU
- package up your ECU for return shipping (usually by UPS).
Given his modus operandi (he really is an artist), and the way LDG does business ( small local shop), my advice was that he should only do flashes at his shop, or at concentrated local group "pulley parties" in places where a dyno is available. He told me he was planning a "party" in Miami this month where at least 10 people had signed up.
Also note the posting by CmdrVimes (Matt) about 5 above here in a response to 1FSTMINI:
BTW -- John's "mail order flash" would be a LOT easier if he had a wiring harness into which he can plug your ECU. Unfortunately, it appears that in order to program the ECU, there are a number of VALID SENSOR tests that have to be passed. The only way that John has found that he can zap a mail-in ECU is to tie up an entire MINI. If anyone has a solution to this problem, I know that John would be forever in your debt
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,015
Likes: 0
From: Cruisin around in 8th Gear...
I spoke with John. And with the car in the shop he is charging $500 for the tune/flash.
For the dyno tune, it's like CmdrVimes said, it's $150/hr. John said it goes anywhere from $700-800. Which really matches what CmdrVimes said. Just depends how long it takes. John is doing a custom tune for your car. So he dyno's your car and sees where/what it is doing. He then flashes it. Dyno's again to see what the output of that was. Then examines where things can be improved. And basically it's a back and forth process of dyno'ing modified flashes to get the appropriate tune for your car. Something that will get the most amount of power without losing any reliability and quality.
For the dyno tune, it's like CmdrVimes said, it's $150/hr. John said it goes anywhere from $700-800. Which really matches what CmdrVimes said. Just depends how long it takes. John is doing a custom tune for your car. So he dyno's your car and sees where/what it is doing. He then flashes it. Dyno's again to see what the output of that was. Then examines where things can be improved. And basically it's a back and forth process of dyno'ing modified flashes to get the appropriate tune for your car. Something that will get the most amount of power without losing any reliability and quality.
I spoke with John. And with the car in the shop he is charging $500 for the tune/flash.
For the dyno tune, it's like CmdrVimes said, it's $150/hr. John said it goes anywhere from $700-800. Which really matches what CmdrVimes said. Just depends how long it takes. John is doing a custom tune for your car. So he dyno's your car and sees where/what it is doing. He then flashes it. Dyno's again to see what the output of that was. Then examines where things can be improved. And basically it's a back and forth process of dyno'ing modified flashes to get the appropriate tune for your car. Something that will get the most amount of power without losing any reliability and quality.
For the dyno tune, it's like CmdrVimes said, it's $150/hr. John said it goes anywhere from $700-800. Which really matches what CmdrVimes said. Just depends how long it takes. John is doing a custom tune for your car. So he dyno's your car and sees where/what it is doing. He then flashes it. Dyno's again to see what the output of that was. Then examines where things can be improved. And basically it's a back and forth process of dyno'ing modified flashes to get the appropriate tune for your car. Something that will get the most amount of power without losing any reliability and quality.
3rd Gear
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 233
Likes: 0
It's not that I can't, it's that I prefer not to. I've spent a lot of time figuring out what works and what doesn't and how to give the best results. The Mini after market is not a performance business but rather an image and lifestyle business. Most of the after market parts do not perform well and in some cases detract from the overall performance. This is the main reason that I'm considering only doing tuning at my shop where I can eyeball the whole process and fix all the problems that these cars come in with. This is the best way that I've found to assure that my customers get the most for their money.
6th Gear
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 5,149
Likes: 0
FWIW.....I had a 15 and then went to a 19..... I read all the stuff about why the 15% is overall better.... I experienced most of the issues.... I would never go back to a 19%.... with the 62 the point is mute but when people ask me I always recommend the 15% as that was the time the car seemed happiest
FWIW.....I had a 15 and then went to a 19..... I read all the stuff about why the 15% is overall better.... I experienced most of the issues.... I would never go back to a 19%.... with the 62 the point is mute but when people ask me I always recommend the 15% as that was the time the car seemed happiest
6th Gear
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 5,149
Likes: 0
well two things
1) I blew two belts off 60 mi from home
2) never got more power.... seemed a little toqueier down low but at sustained 5-6 k through the turns for anytime at all and the performance seemed to suffer.
this is because of the additional heat ... if you are running stop light to stop light maybe a 19% ( I would not do it again).... the reason Randy Webb and I think John doesn't like it is just that...
I have light weight pulley that I would love to trade for a stock 06 .,... mine is 0%.....
I thru one belt since i put the pulley on. i have 34k on my motor now with no problem i can see coming from the pulley.
i want a light crank pulley...mine is an 05 but i dont have a belt tensioner tool to do the swap.
i want a light crank pulley...mine is an 05 but i dont have a belt tensioner tool to do the swap.
1st Gear
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 13
Likes: 1
Hi there...
Sorry to bring this up again, but I believe it's of all's interest.
I have a 210 Bhp JCW, and I'm going to change the Crank pulley and the supercharger pulley. As no consensual opinion is found in what regards JCW supercharger pulley's % reduction, I am somehow "lost" in the "math" I have to do... meaning, a 2% Crank Pulley with the ??% JCW supercharger pulley will give me a total of ??% reduction facing the original. On the other hand, if I change the JCW supercharger pulley for a 15% one plus the +2% Crank Pulley, I'm pretty sure I'm gonna get a REAL 17% reduction facing the original setup. But, if in fact the JCW supercharger pulley were to be a 14,x %, maybe it wouldn't be such a great investment to go for the 15% Supercharger Alta pulley... Decisions, decisions...
I've picked up CmdrVimes (I hope you don't mind) picture example and tried to superpose JCW over the other pulleys, so we could have a better idea on the real size differences.
I know that having no scale makes it impossible to determine the real percentage reduction, but, I believe it already gives us an idea.
Well, hope it helped.
Regards to all,
Citro
Sorry to bring this up again, but I believe it's of all's interest.
I have a 210 Bhp JCW, and I'm going to change the Crank pulley and the supercharger pulley. As no consensual opinion is found in what regards JCW supercharger pulley's % reduction, I am somehow "lost" in the "math" I have to do... meaning, a 2% Crank Pulley with the ??% JCW supercharger pulley will give me a total of ??% reduction facing the original. On the other hand, if I change the JCW supercharger pulley for a 15% one plus the +2% Crank Pulley, I'm pretty sure I'm gonna get a REAL 17% reduction facing the original setup. But, if in fact the JCW supercharger pulley were to be a 14,x %, maybe it wouldn't be such a great investment to go for the 15% Supercharger Alta pulley... Decisions, decisions...
I've picked up CmdrVimes (I hope you don't mind) picture example and tried to superpose JCW over the other pulleys, so we could have a better idea on the real size differences.
I know that having no scale makes it impossible to determine the real percentage reduction, but, I believe it already gives us an idea.
Well, hope it helped.
Regards to all,
Citro
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,015
Likes: 0
From: Cruisin around in 8th Gear...
the post that had those pictures in, cmdrvimes explains that the JCW pulley comes out to be about a 10% reduction. So actually going to a 15% pulley should make a difference. Now as far as changing your crank pulley, i'm not sure that you would want to do that or not.
you may want to PM luckydoggarage or post up in their thread. And John could answer that question for you.
you may want to PM luckydoggarage or post up in their thread. And John could answer that question for you.
4th Gear
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 444
Likes: 0
From: wherever
JCW Pulley size
The JCW pulley(at least on the GP) is 12 percent.
http://www.mini2.com/forum/john-coop...lley-size.html
http://www.mini2.com/forum/john-coop...lley-size.html
Stuck in Reverse
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,812
Likes: 0
From: 127.0.0.1
The JCW pulley(at least on the GP) is 12 percent.
http://www.mini2.com/forum/john-coop...lley-size.html
http://www.mini2.com/forum/john-coop...lley-size.html
And to address some earlier questions about the shape of the JCW pulley in the picture. I found out why it's squished the way it is. It has been used with a press to get the front control arm bushings out of the wishbone bracket (official name from realoem.com). It turns out it pretty much the perfect size for that task.
4th Gear
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 444
Likes: 0
From: wherever
I know Roland is spot on though. His products are first rate.
His shop:http://www.gtt.uk.com/home.asp
5th Gear
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 615
Likes: 0
From: Maryland
You are welcome to disagree, this is NAM. I know Roland is spot on though. His products are first rate.
His shop:http://www.gtt.uk.com/home.asp
I know Roland is spot on though. His products are first rate. His shop:http://www.gtt.uk.com/home.asp
Stuck in Reverse
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,812
Likes: 0
From: 127.0.0.1
You are welcome to disagree, this is NAM. I know Roland is spot on though. His products are first rate.
His shop:http://www.gtt.uk.com/home.asp
I know Roland is spot on though. His products are first rate. His shop:http://www.gtt.uk.com/home.asp
It's the numbers on the pulley I'm doubting.
I've seen some very creative math when it came to determining reduction percentage. There have been some involving belt thicknesses and other things which has always baffled me. The belt is going to be riding on the ribs of the pulley no matter which pulley you have. So accounting belt thickness is pointless, it's a constant across all the different pulleys so it can safely be discarded.
So like I said for my calculations I took the measurement from the center most rib of the pulley. I used the difference in diameter from the 2 reductions compared to the stock to compute the percentage. That lead me to the numbers I posted. I stand behind my findings.
I'm not a mechanic and I don't run a shop. But I do have a pretty solid engineering background.
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,015
Likes: 0
From: Cruisin around in 8th Gear...
Oh, I know GTT stuff is good.
It's the numbers on the pulley I'm doubting.
I've seen some very creative math when it came to determining reduction percentage. There have been some involving belt thicknesses and other things which has always baffled me. The belt is going to be riding on the ribs of the pulley no matter which pulley you have. So accounting belt thickness is pointless, it's a constant across all the different pulleys so it can safely be discarded.
So like I said for my calculations I took the measurement from the center most rib of the pulley. I used the difference in diameter from the 2 reductions compared to the stock to compute the percentage. That lead me to the numbers I posted. I stand behind my findings.
I'm not a mechanic and I don't run a shop. But I do have a pretty solid engineering background.
It's the numbers on the pulley I'm doubting.
I've seen some very creative math when it came to determining reduction percentage. There have been some involving belt thicknesses and other things which has always baffled me. The belt is going to be riding on the ribs of the pulley no matter which pulley you have. So accounting belt thickness is pointless, it's a constant across all the different pulleys so it can safely be discarded.
So like I said for my calculations I took the measurement from the center most rib of the pulley. I used the difference in diameter from the 2 reductions compared to the stock to compute the percentage. That lead me to the numbers I posted. I stand behind my findings.
I'm not a mechanic and I don't run a shop. But I do have a pretty solid engineering background.
6th Gear
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,964
Likes: 0
From: Alexandria, VA
Neutral
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
I took my 03 S to Lucky Dog Garage last week for a flash and 15% pulley. The car was all stock except for a short shifter (I'm the second owner).
Certainly it made a difference. Much better pull at the higher RPMs, especially in gears 3 and up. Haven't fully measured MPG changes yet. John and his staff were professional, courteous and efficient.
I'm not an expert by any means and we didn't run dyno tests to gage deltas and I couldn't tell you which modification made the most difference. But I'm happy with the result and the new feel of my car.
Certainly it made a difference. Much better pull at the higher RPMs, especially in gears 3 and up. Haven't fully measured MPG changes yet. John and his staff were professional, courteous and efficient.
I'm not an expert by any means and we didn't run dyno tests to gage deltas and I couldn't tell you which modification made the most difference. But I'm happy with the result and the new feel of my car.