ah, sorry

 

Not, to sound like a douche....Can't convey word tone too much on a computer

 

The dogbox is not the uprated tranny MinimaniaUK has...is it? I was thinking about getting that eventually...but I'll probably wait until I destroy my second tranny. I don't even know if I have a midland or a getrag, since it was replaced in 05.

 

Nope, they're not the same... the uprated trany has better internals... the dog box has a dog ring setup and is special order only (it's not listed on their site).

 

does the mini mania gearbox have different gear rations? is it better in that aspect? or just stronger?

 

Has anyone done a full port matching job on their heads? I would think port matching along with larger exhaust valves and port and polished would work wonders on a cooper, yeah I know it would cost alot but it would be fun.

 

You can get it with different final drive ratios if you'd like... I think that requires buying the Ultrik limited slip, though.

 

I have port matched the exhaust, along with opening up the intake side, and the pockets behind the valves... and then polished everything up nicely. Personally, I don't think oversized exhaust valves are going to provide much bang-for-the-buck on the Cooper, which is why I just slapped in a set of S valves (because they're stronger).

There's a huge amount of material you can remove to really smooth things out, but you do have to be careful not to breach the water jacket... The easiest place to do that is on the exhaust side...

 

Are you saying that I can get a lowered final drive in a 5-speed?

 

That sounds nice! Find out from MinimaniaUK...but I think the tranny is around 2k so that could be $4k shipped with the LSD. But that would make your Mini a Monster!

 

Yup, I believe so... Quaife also makes final drive sets for the MINI Cooper 5-speed for Group N and circuit racing...

 

So how about for street use, I know my top speed would be pretty low but I dont care. What is the sound like, I know a dog box is crazy loud

 

Also would a Clutch and flywheel be a better use of cash than something like a port and polished cylinder head.

 

I heard of alot of highly tuned cars being unrealiable, I was hoping that since a fully built cooper doesnt involve a TC or a SC it will be a little more reliable. Does anyone have anything to add on this?

 

A highly tuned MINI doesn't have to be unreliable. Depends where you set your limits.

A stock MCS with SC is fine but when pushed another 50 to 100 HP it can be less durable.

A stock MC doesn't have the same capacity to be upgraded, power gains will be modest especially if you don't go to TC or SC. Doesn't mean you have no options, the upgrades will cost about the same as for the MCS (such as for ported and polished heads/cam/any LSD-racing clutch-lt flywheel/adjustable suspension/ intake-header-exhaust/ MTH or ECU upgrade, etc.

If I had to choose between stock transmission with ported and polished heads and race cam vs Quaife/flywheel/race clutch, I pick the head and cam. Reason is it will be more drivable and increase power and torque to have the head and cam work, light flywheels are great for the track but not so friendly for the street, Quaife is fine.

For the MC the basics are always good-
upgrade the suspension
Lighter rims
upgrade the brake pads/ brake fluid
Intake/ cat back exhaust
Plug wires
MTH
Keep the total weight down- reduce the audio upgrades, pull out the rear seat if not needed- do the seat removal kit

 

Reliability on a fully built MC is the BIGGEST concern of mine, as for the flywheel I have driven a few cars with lightweight flywheels and as long as they are not extremely light its not much of a problem. I really wish I could gut my interior but I need it, I try to see how long I can go without my backseats but I always use them, this is my only car. I had a sub for a little while but took it out to save weight. Is it possible to get a lightweight spare? Im looking at lightwieght batteries but I have heard many different things about their reliability.

I really looking at two options in terms of cars, either I fully build my cooper or save up, trade for an S and eventually turn it into a Cosi car.

 

I just talked to Fireballed Brian. He said that its possible to rebuild my cooper with a turbo and get around 210-215hp. Im thinking about going for it. Its not gunna be cheap 10k plus, but to me its gunna be worth it.

 

That would be amazing, a turbo cooper was my first and favorite idea about my car but I have been scared away from it, I was hoping for 200hp. The tranny is the part that I am worried about the most. How about intercooler, are you going to use one? Are you willing to share details? I need a reliable car so that has also scared me away from the custom turbo

 

10k really isn't bad for 210 hp or so, comparable to trading in the car for a JCW.

 

I've had Odyssey lightweight dry-cell (AGM) batteries in three different cars, and never had a problem with them. The one I have in my Miata now only weighs 11 lbs, and it starts the car during the winter in low temps with no problems. I've sold several of them used after I sold the cars they were in, and AFAIK they are all still working fine. I'm storing a friend's Miata in my shop right now that has a 6 lb AGM motorcycle battery in it (cost $50-60), and after sitting in cold temps for a month without being started, it started up a couple of days ago just fine. When I finally stop autocrossing my Mini in stock class (stock size/weight battery required), I will definitely be replacing the original battery with a lightweight Odyssey battery. It's a great way to save 20 lbs or so with no bad side effects, and they only cost around $70-80 or so.

Just run without a spare tire unless going on a long trip. I have AAA in case something happens, but last year I removed the spare tire in the spring when I started autocrossing, and just left it off all summer. When I put the all-season tires back on for the winter, I went ahead and put the spare back on since I'm not as concerned about weight reduction and performance in the winter. I do the same in my Miata, I leave the spare tire at home in the warmer months and only have it in the car during the winter.

Removing the spare tire, jack, tool kit, and using a lightweight battery is good for nearly 50 lbs of weight reduction, for much less than $100. Throw in another $100 or so for an AAA plus membership, and it is still worth the money IMHO.

-Keith

 

I was told that it would be reliable, the tranny would be swapped out most likely with a cooper "S" tranny.

 

In that case, yes... it'll be plenty reliable. You'll end up swapping more than the tranny, though...

 

I already run with out a spare and probably should at least through it in the trunk for trips.

 

Now that would get rid of the tranny weak link but what about the others like the pistons and valves, I guess those would be relatively easy compared to everything else


I definetly would rather have a turbo cooper over a JCW, but were in the rpm would that 210 be becasue their is nothing the bothers me more than when people say that their car makes 200hp but than you look at the chart and they are only getting it at 10,000rpm, now to me thats not usable horsepower becasue I know that I dont rev my car that high(not that it could) but I shift at like 6,000, I havent seen much reason to go higher than that, it just get louder, no more power. I know turbo cars are different than NA cars but still, I want usable and accessable power, thats why my HP mark was a little lower, 170hp. Im thinking a smaller, fast spolling turbo rather than a big one with more lag.

Im thinking I could go for the turbo with the tranny swap as well as a AAA membership, now thats not saying much about my confidence in the car but its a safety

 

It would be tranny swap, new block, pistons, rods, throttle body, cam, custom ecu, turbo set up with a top mount intercooler, and a cooper "S" hood. Im sure a lot of other upgrades too.