Hey that's awesome that you're gona try it. I'd almost be interested in doing this to mine as well!

 

the eram has been ordered. it should be here in a couple of days . i'll let evryone know my results.

 

Woo hoo! Thanks for being the guinea pig on this one. I can't wait to see what this puppy can do.

Keep us updated with everything, experience, fitting, etc.
We need speed, too.

Thanks again!

-Steve

 

I'm very dubious. In principle it sounds fine but my first thought is can this fan move air faster than the air is already coming down the pipe?

I'm not claiming I know the answer and I'm far too damn lazy to do the math on a product I'm not going to buy but I'm reading the arguments and well.. something doesn't add up here:

There's no restriction when it's not running. This is impossible. If you place even a hair thin filament in a tube running air you have created a slight and barely measurable (with some serious equipment none of us can afford) impediment to air flow. Add all the stuff in there and you have created an air flow disruption. Period. Yes I saw the FAQ, 3.8 diameter with obstruction reducing flow to equiv. of a 3.1 inch diameter intake. That's nice. Try this for grins some day. Take 2 2 inch diamter pipes. First join them together directly and measure output and turbulence. Now join them with a 3 inch diameter in the center. You have two basic options for this:

-<=>- or -|=|-

With the first option you'll get less disruption but you'll notice variance in your output, generally more turbulence. With option two, no conical attachments to the 3" pipe, you'll notice a drop in output and turbulence. Now add a 1/8th inch cross in the center of the 3" and try again, you'll see a drop in output and more turbulence with both methods. Generally speaking this can be measured without speciality tools, just sticking your hand over the exit, for a more measured approach you can use the ever high tech piece of paper horizontally mounted at the exit and watch it flutter. On an interesting note this is the same theory that some of those cheapy 'Super Duper Vortex Generators' are playing on to try and get you increased performance. If you can get the correct vortex going on the 3' pipe with conical attachments you can actually smooth air flow. This doesn't work so well for cars for a variety of reasons.

The question to ask is, 'Is this restriction huge and will it affect performance?' and the answer is probably not. Presumably you're using a CAI so you're boosting performance to begin with there, more air intake at a colder temp. Basically boosting your density via two paths. Now add the fan spinning at full throttle and I just don't know... depends on fan speed vs. incoming air speed, vs. turbulence. Should be interesting.

I think I'd need to see the following and except for perhaps some of the deeper pockets amongst us or more serious race types that have easy cheap access to a dynometer it's not going to happen but here's my wish list:

A) Dyno with stock air filter in place, no eTurbo
B) Dyno with stock air filter in place, eTurbo
C) Dyno with CAI in place, no eTurbo
D) Dyno with CAI in place, eTurbo

Replace CAI with any aftermarket air intake designed for performance.

If someone has a lot of time and either training or money to give to someone trained, I'd like to see a computer model of it with the shape of the fan blades and all that modelled in.

My suspicion is that you'll find little or no difference between the two pairs but I'd love to proven wrong, be nice to get a little more zip for under 300.

And yes I read the testimonials, I don't believe everything I read on a

 

I've read the arguments that eRam makes for lower amperage/Wattage fan units being toys, but I was wondering if that logic holds true for a NON-Inline fan unit?

Saw this inexpensive unit ($100) on eBay from Tempest Performance.
http://www.tempestperformance.com/

If you really believe the 36HP gain on a 1997 Civic


The company stands to make $15 from each person for a 15% restocking fee to return it if it doesn't work.

 

This thread reminds me of that video of the guys running a car on a dyno with a leaf blower attached to the intake manifold and then shoots nitrous into the blower. Made something like 75HP.

 

to use round numbers. A Cooper is a 100 HP car @ 15 PSIA pressure. Make that 16 PSIA, and the Cooper becomes a 100* (16/15) HP car. That's a bit less than 7 HP gain. There's a bit of air heating, so let's say 6 HP.

If you do the same math for an S, you get about 12 (even though the car is rated at 163 HP, there's extra that's used turning the SC, so the motor is making around 200 before losses).

As for what the car breaths, it's a 1.6 liter motor, a 4 stroke with a 7000 RPM red-line. So the car's max possible injestion rate is 1.6 * 7000 / 2 liters per minute = 5600 LPM, or just shy of 200 CFM. The car isn't perfect, so it's actually less than that. The eRAM is a 1000 CFM fan. You do the math....

For the restriction, yes it's true that one hair is a restriction, but remember, it's really how bad the restriction is compared to the rest in the intake path that tells you if you have to worry about it. Think of adding a one ohm resistor to a 1000 ohm resistor, yes the total resisitance is higher, but the effect is 0.1%.

Real good modeling of the whole system would say this is worth a try, back of the envelope calculation say it's worth a try, and it's only a gut reaction "this CAN'T work, it just sounds like BS" is really the only argument against.

There is one situation where these things have been shown to NOT work, and that has to do with placement of mass air meters and ambient pressure sensors. We're a speed-density injection system.

Should be fun! And the Cooper guys (and gals) can finally have a whine from under the hood all thier own!

Matt

 

Thir13en, were you by any chance on the FIU main campus today, parked by the Education building? Wait, it HAD to be you, I saw your front plate!

Anyway, BEAUTIFUL Cooper. I always spot 'em in the lot, and knew I had seen yours somewhere before (here on NAM of course).

Ken

 

Hey Ken, yes, that was me! Parked illegaly because the ****'s there had to close down the garage, and since first day, I've stopped looking for parking and just steal the Administration instead... Been working fine until today - got a ticket when I came back from my test... What a rip-off.

Anyways, thanks for , but the car is filthy, and I have to clean it up... Then it'll be nice-er...

Thanks again,
Leo.

 

Parking here is a sick joke! I get a workout walking to and from my car. Do you know why the garage is closed? I huge hunk of concrete trim fell off the roof. Thankfully no one was hurt. It happened about a couple months ago. Now I bet they're wondering if any other parts will fall off!

 

the Eram Has Just Been Installed.. Keep Ya Posted On Results???????????

 

[quote=Dr Obnxs]. There's a bit of air heating, so let's say 6 HP.

KEY FACTOR=COOL AIR FLOW

AIR THAT'S NOT HOT = NICE..... VERY NICE . ....

 

i wouldn't say 6 hp. i would say more like 4 or 5 hp. it definitely works though. the only hard part is mounting it.i know are cars perform better in the colder air and i think it would serve it 's purpose even better then. so far so good though.

 

Post a photo if you could....

And it's a difference you feel? Neat!

Matt

 

very,very,very tight fit! kind of hard to hide all the extra wires too.next step is the dyno. with this vs. the k&n typhoon cone filter

 

 

Maybe there is a way to trick it into thinking that 1/2 or 1/3 throttle is a WOT. Then you could have more power in a more reasonable RPM range.

 

it would be kind of poinltess to run it at half throttle anyway.you'd be trying to blow all that air through a half open throttle body. it gives you more power through the whole rpm range simply by the fact that it is activated when your gas pedal is all the way down.hence the throttle being fully open

example- when i'm cruisin about 40 mph in 4th gear ,and then slam the gas pedal down. usually it is a very sluggish response because my rpm's are starting at about 1 1/2- 2. now with this thing on there it definitely gives you a noticeable difference in the same scenario.not blazingly fast ,but a small difference at that.

 

The gas peddle isn't connected to the throttle body. The gas pedal has two variable resistors in it (reduncancy for safety's sake...) that lets the ECU know how much "fast" you want. This is known as "driver demand". The ECU translates that into a target amount of torque and a throttle position, and a feedback loop tunes this value. The throttle body has an internal stepper motor that drives a gearset that is eventually connected to the butterfly.

So why does this matter? As long as the ECU isn't saying "just go for it" to the engine, it will end up with the throttle open less because there's more pressure on the high pressure side.....

For drive by wire cars, you can get that feeling of more power by re-programming how the ECU interprets the driver demand. One of the new Audi's (other cars I'm sure) has a variable drive by wire programming with three levels of gas pedal sensitivity, depending on use.

Matt

 

that's not exactly what i was talking about. i just meant the eram has a switch underneath the gas pedal . so when the pedal is depressed all the way ,the eram kicks on. you just spit out alot of good technical data about our cars though. are you sometype of mechanical engineer or something?auto mechanic? someone who works on his cars all the time?

 

Buddy, just click his link to the Mustang!

That thing is sick. Thanks for the info!

 

Can you provide more details on your install process, costs, did you buy anything other than the kit, etc..?

I cruise in 3rd most of the time---5,000 rpm cause it's fun, and I'm always stomping the throttle. Today, I merged onto the freeway towing my loaded trailer, and blew away a pokey Xb that started from the same traffic light.

I want to know more!!!! Please.

Richard

 

if you set the switch to come on at too low a driver demand, all that will happen is the throttle body will close on it's own, negating any effect. It's only at the last little bit of umph where this will help.

Matt

 

So any eRam updates? How is it working? Come on, I'm itching for details please! I just cleaned my HAI and got a little kick in my pants--performance much improved. I forgot how important it was to keep it clean. I'm figuring if the eRAM offered a similar feel--just the small improvement of having a clean intake filter--that would satisfy me plenty!

 

the eram has been uninstalled temporarily. the reason for this is because my car is going into the shop for repairs to the a/c system.i just don't want them to say anything.as for it working. i noticed the difference when i took it out for sure. not much, but definitely something . the only problems i've had with this product are....

1. u have to use the cone filter they give you and it barely fits.it's so tight it leaves an imprint on the underside of the hood felt. which i don't like for obvious reasons.

2. there is alot of extra wire. it's not like you can just cut the extra and make a flying splice. you could but i would not recomend it. kind of a hard to hide because the way the harness hooks up.

3.the activation switch is very hard to rig up to the underside of the gas pedal. and when i say rig, believe me i mean it. for right now a romex uf electrical strap and a black tie wrap are doin the trick for me. but who knows how long that will hold up for?

like i said before though, i betcha this product kicks *** in fall/wintertime when the temp drops to about 50 f . it's been close to 100 f ever since i put the product in.this will be the full out test .blowing hot air into the engine's not doing much.