Hey guys, I just bought a 2011 Mini Cooper non S. I want to modify it and add anything I can to give it more power for a reasonable price. If you guys have any tips or tricks please respond.

 

Depends on how far ya wanna go bud.

You can swap the exhaust manifold with OBX straight through headers (removes the catalytic converter from the equation) which will in theory give you plenty of extra power though as per usual it is for offroad use only yada yada yada..

Perhaps a cat-back exhaust with free-er flowing mufflers/silencers, that would help out a little bit, and the same for an aftermarket air intake system or a "performance" air filter.

If you have any inquiries about re-mapping the ECU or "chipping" it, you're out of luck as I would only speculate that the gains from the N/A engines aren't justifiable enough for aftermarket companies to roll out a product.



You can improve or restore engine and drivetrain efficiency to ensure that after 2-3 years of use your engine is performing at its best by doing some if not all of the following:
-spark plugs replacement regardless of miles run (NGK Iridium recommended)
-transmission fluid flush
-air filter, engine oil more frequently changed than stated in the MINI owners handbook
-re-setting the ECU after every service, modification or once in a long while(allows it to relearn and readapt)


If you're looking for power, you won't achieve much with the 1.6 N/A (as with my 1.4 N/A).

If you're looking for speed or acceleration, consider lowering unsprung weight/rotational inertia (lighter wheels, lighter suspension parts)[typically aftermarket components are lighter depending on the application in question].

Anything I've missed out I hope others can chime in, hope this helps and most of all welcome to the community.

 

Where could I buy and obx header for my 2011 Mini Cooper?

 

Google's your best friend.

 

depends on how large your walet is... engine is an pump essentially, more air allows for more fuel. you can get ported and polished heads, intake tube. free flowing filter, free flowing exhaust. can also get a cam, potentially getting higher compression pistons.

then theres the whole weight reduction. Lighter wheels, tires, rotors. (wheels make a huge difference ex. 14lb vs 24lb is noticable). Can also do a back seat delete, rear wiper delete, remove the sunroof for a solid roof, carbon hood/trunk.

lightweight fly wheel, crank pulley, AC delete.

how intense would you like to be?

faster in corners, move to coils and get a rear sway bar along with some nice sticky tires

 

You bought the wrong car for any engine mods...handling is another story.

 

AFE Dry Drop In Air Filter, Aftermarket Rear Sway Bar, NM Torque Arm Insert, are all reasonable starts.

 

I'm looking to get and exhaust, filter, etc and all that I just don't know the best choices and brands for the right price.

 

Can you do all that for a non s?

 

Start with a rear sway bar $220...drop in air filter $57...NM Torque arm insert $60...pulsating third brake light $30...

 

i would imagine all the parts would be the same, it maybe even easier, im sure the S valve head would be an upgrade, just need to make sure that you will have the same compression ratio, or you could take it to a shop and they can do it

 

Just drive your car for now.

 

Just put in the AFE Dry Panel Filter, Recently cut the 2nd Cat/ Resonator, & next week going to Helix to get the H-K 19MM Rear Sway Bar put on in PREP for the Dragon.

 

Recommend you reconsider that 19mm rear sway. Do a little research here; I don't think 19mm will give you much. The stock sport suspension bar is nearly 19mm and many folks change that out for a 21-22mm bar. If you get a larger bar and think you've got too much stiffness at the rear you can always soften it up by changing the setting.

 

I have the 16MM on the Non-S Roadster...I wanted to go to the 22MM but Helix adviced me to go with the 19MM because I don't track the car and it is a daily driver and my wife drives it occasionally.

 

but I can change my mind and get the 22MM and put it on the softest setting.

 

Going from the base car 16mm to 19mm is HUGE, especially since the front sway bar will not likely be changed.

 

I got the Hotchkiss Competition (22MM) put on and I can tell it's going to make a difference. The Snowstorms have put a damper on the roads at this time...but we have a MINI Run next weekend to test it out.

I also got the Cravenspeed Tow Hook...the wife told them to put it on because just in case I get stuck in the snow......so I can get pulled out.

 

I wouldn't mind having a larger rear sway bar to help induce more oversteer and help with turn in and control, though I must admit a standard 16-18mm RSB is already quite impressive for a small car like our MINIs. (I mean the Honda Accords back in 04-08 had no RSB for the lower models and a 14mm IIRC for the V6 240bhp models). I wouldn't say they're performance cars but hey, my MINI's a 96bhp hatchback and it's equipped with the 18mm RSB. I personally feel BMW/MINI overkilled suspension, and for a good reason.

Needless to say, I think I'm quite happy with how the car handles neutrally and responsively through corners sharp and wide, fast and slow, after installing some budget coilovers from FK AK. I'm also lowered beyond a what I would consider 'optimal' performance' ride height, and am very, very please with how the car drives. It drives how a MINI should.

 

Salty is an idiot and you should listen to MINI #1. Seriously, Salty? Shame!

 

I recently had the Powerflex lower engine bushing installed. Although there is some vibration at idle, it was the best $38 I spent, and it makes an immediate difference.

I was able to pick up a Cooper S sway bar off a 2013 for dirt cheap. Do you guys think it will make a difference from the stock sway bar? I'm not looking for anything too crazy, since I don't track the car.

 

Going from 16MM to 18.5MM isn't much...but going from 16MM to 22MM makes a whole lot of difference...listening to people about understeer or oversteer in ramps gives me a headache.

You drive your car the they we you want to drive...except when you you can't make a turn because the equipment isn't up to par...that's not your fault...

But if you have the equipment to match your driving skills...that gives you satisfaction knowing...I got this...or think of it from an economy stand point...I'm saving money on my brakes.

 

I have an opportunity to purchase a jcw 18.5mm rear sway bar for my Justa, which I understand has a 16mm rear sway bar. I can get it for $100. Are you saying I am better off spending more money and getting a 22mm? I don't auto cross or track my car, but do enjoy spirited driving.

 

ditto for the rsb.

and vince, i'd go straight to aftermarket. and regardless, $100 is too much for the jcw rsb

 

22mm RSB is the sweet spot...I am heading to the Dragon and I am smiling knowing that I can make the switchback curves now.