Hey guys, I went out for a spirited drive yesterday and decided to see how the car braked from 100-0. Long straight line, no one around, stood on the brakes. It stopped okay but I was surprised at how "squishy" the braking felt. I suppose I don't make hard stops often (or ever) so I hadn't thought about it.

When I need to replace the brakes, what's the best way to get them to maybe feel a bit "grabbier" and provide good stopping power? I understand that grabby doesn't necessarily = better, but I'd like it to feel a little more crisp when I need to slow down quick.

Would the solution be a big brake kit? Braided lines? Just new pads? Drilled rotors? Some combination? I sure like the look of drilled rotors and red calipers, but can I do this without breaking the bank?

I don't track the car and this isn't an urgent problem, just wondering what direction I should go in. Thanks all!

 

It sounds like you may have worn pads and dirty brake fluid to me. That would give you a mushy pedal feel even before fade becomes an issue. If you couple that with overheating, then your problem is amplified. Keeping the brake fluid in the braking system clean and "air free" is probably most important along with fresh and slightly more aggressive pad material to getting quality braking. Also, change your pads before they get too thin (maybe 1/2 to 2/3 used), and that will help give you a firmer pedal and help prevent fade. Remove the dust shields if you think overheating is an issue. Braided lines will help a bit, but only if you do the above stuff as well.

I personally think big brake kits are completely unnecessary on a street car. Clean fluid, well bled system, and fresh, quality pads will go a long way to give you the pedal you want.

Hope it helps!

 

Thanks for the input! I just had an inspection recently and I believe they looked at the fluid and pads, but maybe I will call the dealership and confirm. It was inspection 1, if anyone knows off hand.

 

Also, any recommendation on pads?

 

I agree with 41. Make sure you have fresh quality brake fluid. And change the pads and rotors if you need them. My fronts were done at 26K and the rear went at 36K. I changed both before it hit the wear sensors, so that saves a little money.

I used EBC green stuff pads and like them much better than the oem pads. First, the dust slightly less than oem. Second, the modulation feels much better. I think the oem pads are too "grabby." Feels too "on and off." The Green stuff fixed that, so it was a nice upgrade.

When it comes to rotors, I like Centric. They are low priced and do he job. Rotors are rotors. I don't think you are getting any more performance by spending more. From what I've read, drilling rotors weakens it, but on a street driven car, I doubt the extra cooling ability will be noticed.

 

I would agree that a BBK on a street car is definitely overkill. There isn't much call for it, since most cars running these on the track run them to dissipate a massive amount of heat generated by frequent hard usage. I have run Brembo rotors and Tyrol sport brake caliper stiffening bushings along with ate fluid for a while now, and that seems to be a nice upgrade through the maountains as well as everyday.

I use the Mintex red box pads due to price and feel. I like the feedback of the pads, which give a nice bite but not at all as aggressive as Hawk. They don't dust much either, making them a good all around OEM plus kind of upgrade.

The next pads I will run will be Hawk though I think. I want a pad that is slightly more aggressive that can really handle some serious fun!

 

Lines and pads are all you really need, the stock brakes are actually pretty good for stock.

 

+1. How is Denver? Still miss it from time to time...

 

Thanks guys, I appreciate all the tips! I'll look into new pads, fluid and braided lines when it's time to change them out. I still might get drilled rotors just for "per-faux-mance"

RJ, where did you find the Tyrol bushings? Sounds interesting...

 

http://www.tyrolsport.com/index.php?...arent=500&pg=1


I thought about getting these also, but it seems like you need to constantly keep them grease up. I figured it wouldn't be worth the hassle on a street driven car.

 

They are worth their weight in gold! A great mod for the money

 

Thanks! I'll put them on the ever growing list of mods to consider. I think I could have saved a lot of money in the long run if I'd got a Kia or something

 

DANNY, I aswell thought about the bushings. In the end last July when I purchaced my brake upgrades I figgured it irrelevent to get them for just the rears. Why stiffen the rear brake bias more than it needs to be when 90% of your stopping power is coming out of the front?
If they make the solid bushings for the front I'd be on it like white on rice in a snow storm with a polar bear well.....

RJ, Denver is good, the po po is out and about more than I can remember, but we stick to speed limmits right? Hows Atlanta? Reply by PM dont want to thread jack.

 

FOR SHAME!!!!!!!!

 

I use the Tyrolsport bushings and never had to regrease them, they work great.
http://www.waymotorworks.com/search....=search&page=1

 

Thats good too know. Maybe i'm wrong, but it looks like they are more exposed to the elements vs. the stock bushings?

Do you feel a difference? And what exactly do you feel? Thanks.

 

Thanks Way, looks like cheaper than direct from Tyrol as well. That link doesn't work, but this one should:

http://www.waymotorworks.com/tyrolsp...-and-rear.html

I'd be curious to know what the difference in "feel" is as well.

 

The feel is much more responsive braking with a stiff pedal. The brakes feel like they are working at a quicker clip, providing instant pedal feedback. Once I get the lines installed too, I will let you know what think of the combo.

 

+1 For the lines, especially if you have the originals on the car now. Much improvement in pedal feel.

 

This pretty much sounds like what I'm looking for. When I'm ready for rotors/pads I might as well tack on an extra hundred bucks and try this too. Interested to hear how much of a difference the lines make.

Little by little I'm making my r50 "feel" like my gone-but-not-forgotten CBR600, albeit with a very different power to weight ratio.

 

Haha I used to have a CBR600F4i myself. So far my R50 has given the closest amount of fun to it than any other car i've owned.

If your due to have your brake fluid changed out, it won't hurt to get the lines changed out too. Thinking of doing this myself.

 

I would go with the braided lines recommendation as well. Im doing them next. Slotted and cross drilled rotors look very cool but prob little effect on the street, other than the self-cleaning feature, my Clubbie had them installed already and I like them. Also, believe it or not, Advance Auto carries very good ceramo-met pads for around $60, very little dust and its a light grey kinda powder. No idea on life yet, havent had them anywhere near long enough to judge, but pedal feel and modulation are excellent.

 

Resurrecting another brake thread...

BBK is overkill for normal street driving. However, 100mph to 0 is not normal street driving. A full stop from anything over about 70 stands a good chance of boiling something and fading something on stock brakes.

That said, I found a good deal on a BBK, so I have one on my street car. I love the feel of it. The kit involves 12.25" rotors, 4-piston calipers, and stainless lines vs. the ~10" rotors and sliding calipers stock. The calipers are half the weight, and the rotors, because they use aluminum hats, are only 0.2pounds heavier, each. I'm saving 3 pounds per corner, with a little rotational inertia added, perhaps. The feel is much improved over stock. I don't know how much of that is the stainless lines vs. the rest of it.

I'm going to evaluate brake proportioning to see whether I want to put SS lines and maybe TyrolSport stiffeners on the rear. If anyone wants to split a kit of four new stiffeners, let me know. I don't need the front ones!

 

maybe that was true, but no longer,...

as part of my "break-in" and in learning the capabilities of my new CMS All4, i did 10 times in a row, 0-100-0 as fast and hard as the car would go, full throttle to redline and full abs max stopping, result? NO FADE, none at all, no change in pedal feel nor did the engine hiccup in any way

i see no need to upgrade or change anything on the brakes, except i will put stainless lines on at some point instead of another set of rubber lines

oh... and the 2012 pads produce little/no brake dust, less than the ceramic pads on my last vehicle, and i have white wheels

scott

 

haygood
You can purchase the TyrolSport bushing just for the rear. I would call Way and ask but I am sure Helix has them. Be sure to get the stainless steel snap rings. The older kits were an upgrade and I am not sure if they still are.
Steve