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I'm sure we will be building a normal compression car at some point, I had orders to make some high compression stroker engines for some Race MINI's overseas. This was for a specific racing class. Like I said I believe there is more in the engine with the right tweaks. No pricing yet , I need to nail down some of the costs but it will be very similar to the regular stroker price.
also, do you think this will be in the 160hp range on stock compression and w/out race gas?
Man, I’m about to revive this thread like an undelivered Tesla Roadster.
Im building an R50 to compete in Gridlife’s SundaeCup time attack series. It’s a power to weight class focused on suspension and brakes with mostly stock drivetrains. This car was a CVT from the factory and I saved it from the scrap pile after the trans grenaded under the PO’s ownership and I slapped a Getrag 5 speed in it. Drivetrain is therefore bone stock with 160k on the clock, wheel/tire is a 205/50/15 Falken RT660 on a 7 wide wheel, so the tires are undersized. I’ve spent a considerable amount of time smoke testing this motor and fixing vacuum leaks to make sure it’s tight, and it feels very strong on the street. In case anyone is interested, here are my practically stock dyno results from this morning.
I’ve spent a considerable amount of time smoke testing this motor and fixing vacuum leaks to make sure it’s tight, and it feels very strong on the street. In case anyone is interested, here are my practically stock dyno results from this morning.
Stock USDM R50, 68 degree ambient temp
98 hp at the wheels ? from an engine that was quoted as making 120 at the crank ? & this engine has already driven 160k ?
Mate you have got something else going on, because brand new she would be a unicorn assembly job by the factory worker to have 98. & that would include being run in properly!
If you look through some of the results people have posted over the years, drivetrain loses of 20% are pretty common, so he's probably making around 120 hp at the crank.
If you look through some of the results people have posted over the years, drivetrain loses of 20% are pretty common, so he's probably making around 120 hp at the crank.
With a claimed 120 at the crank I would expect about 90 at the wheel brand new, possibly 95. & thats with full compression, which often doesnt get achieved with how gentle people think an engine run-in needs to be. So I could believe 98 stock brand new, but after 160k ? someone has given that thing a valve grind & a new set of rings - minimum.
I can’t rule out the possibility of prior engine work. I have only had the car myself since 140k and I received zero history or documentation besides the title. All I know is that it was in California most of its life and had a CVT in it. But, at least at 140k when I got it, it did not look like the head had been off any time recently.
Hello again. I'm realizing I never gave an update after doing some power upgrades.
Since I use this car for Gridlife's Sundae Cup time attack class which requires an unmolested engine, I am limited to intake and exhaust mods for power. Given that, I made a custom intake by routing an aluminum pipe from the throttle body straight into the battery box, where I put a K&N cone filter. I have moved my battery to behind the passenger seat for weight distribution. I cut a hole in the front of the battery box just large enough to route the intake pipe into, and I cut a hole in the back of it to retrieve air from the windshield cowl like the R53 JCW box does. I also slapped on an OBX 4-2-1 header and welded a stock cat onto it, plus an R53 exhaust center section which deletes the center resonator. All said and done, I went back to the same dyno under very similar conditions and gained about 10% more power, plus smoothing out the power band. Not to mention the intake makes the most incredible sounds.
