I just got back from my 1,440 mile roadtrip after picking up my 1973 Mini. I'm completely exhausted. The car was in great shape, although I was mildly disappointed to find it not exactly as I expected it:

1. I was told the car had gone through a body-off restoration with fresh paint. This is only partly true. The guy who sold the car to the guy I bought it from had taken the body completely apart, but only bothered to paint what was visible on the outside. The exposed metal under the seats and other small places is still the original red, and looks very faded compared to the outside of the car.

2. A lot of the minor trim pieces, etc. had rust on them, and/or looked old. This should have been expected on my part, but considering the car supposedly had been "restored", I wasn't expecting to see rusty spots on the chrome trim around the windshield and stuff.

3. The real kicker; Even though the car was fitted with the wider fenders, the guy who "restored" the car never bothered to cut the wheel well openings larger. He just tacked on the larger fenders onto the body. So now I potentially have clearance problems with my tires.

4a. The automatic transmission is flaky. The engine won't start unless the gear selector is in neutral (by design), but sometimes it won't start even when it IS in neutral because an electrical contact is not being made. I have to jiggle the gear selector a little bit until that contact is made, then the engine starts like a champ.

4b. The transmission sometimes disengages the engine from the wheels, even when it is in "drive". I'll be in first gear accelerating, then the transmission will make a noise, and my revs go up as if I was in neutral. An orange light comes on on my dashboard. I back off the gas, then give it a little press. The transmission makes another noise, and the car re-engages the gear. This is all without my touching the gear selector.

...

Don't get me wrong though. Despite its quirks, I love my Mini. It is so small, squatty, and peppy. The rubber suspension is really bouncy and sometimes makes me feel like I'm driving a go-kart. I guess I was just a little disappointed that this car would require a little more work than I originally expected. I was under the impression that the car was, say, 90% of what I wanted my Mini to be, when in actuality it was more like 80%.

My first order of business is the figure out what's wrong with the transmission, and if possible, get it running reliably in the meantime. Next, it's out with the auto tranny, and in with a manual unit. I can live with the 1-liter engine for now, I just can't live with the flaky trans. I'll swap the engine out later. Also, I decided I'm eventually going to tear the car completely apart, do some bodywork on it (cut those wheel openings larger, etc.), and do a more thorough paint job. While I'm at it, I'll have it painted in a proper British Racing Green, the color I originally wanted.

- Angel Face

P.S. - I got so many looks from people on the road and at the gas stations, it was ridiculous. And I could not even begin to tell you how many women I had gushing over my car......

 

welcome to the crazy world of owning a classic mini.....im sure you'll find more "little things" within time.........any pics?

 

Just the ones I posted in this thread at the moment:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ad.php?t=80994

I'll be sure to take some new pics as soon the car has had a wash.

 

Congrats on the new Mini. It is a nice looking car.

 

I get a ton of looks too going down the road in my mini. I love it though!

 

That's all

I had more problems than that

{but fewer 'looks'}

in the first 50 miles

 

Congrats on the new Mini

If it is truely a '73 then someone has done a lot of work to modernize it.

There are a lot of clues there, the black handles and plate lights, the clocks, the switch gear are all much newer. Not to mention the wheel.

In '73 you would have had chrome trim, center speedo, two switches - of a much older design and a backolite steering wheel.

You also had drum brakes all round, no in-built reversing lights, vastly different badging, seats, grille etc

The arches are not supposed to be cut underneath, at least not those arches, these are the later 'cooper' arches (as are the wheels and the disc front brakes).

what it looks like you have is a re-vin, this is not terrible, in fact it is probably a good thing, 30+ English winters are not a good thing for something that rusts as easily as a Mini

Cool car though

get rid of that aneamic motor and drop a nicely built 1275 in there and you will have a blast.....

 

Damn, I can't believe I didn't pick up on the dashboard design sooner. I should have realized that the two-dial instrument pod wasn't introduced on the Mini until the mid 80's. In any case, it actually looks pretty crappy; when you look at the sides of the pod, you can see the brackets holding it in place, along with tons of wires, etc. If it meant my dashboard would be cleaner, I would much rather have the original center-mounted dial.

It's also funny you mention the black door handles etc., because I was planning on having those switched out for chrome units, to make it look more like a late 90's Cooper. I guess the black trim was more of an 80's thing.

I found this website which breaks down the VIN numbering scheme for Minis. What do you make of the VIN for my car?

XA2S21030431A

 

<B style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">
The information used to compile the following was taken from factory service parts lists and factory microfiche. Under close scrutiny, there appears to be some conflicts and mistakes in the factory number schemes, but, for the most part, the listings are accurate enough for car identification.

Please note that the Chassis (VIN) number and the Commission number are only one indication of the actual model and date of the car. The Chassis number plate is easily duplicated, especially on early cars, and it is not unusual for later cars not meeting US DOT and EPA standards to have earlier Chassis number plates attached to them to get them into the US illegally. Also, Chassis number plates have been known to be “faked” to turn a less valuable car into a more valuable one; e.g., a standard Saloon into a Cooper or Cooper S.








October 1969 to 1974 “Model Year” – English Built


During the previous months leading up to the cars in this time period, a Commission Number was introduced to go along with the Chassis Number/VIN. Both are helpful in identifying a car.

CHASSIS NUMBER/VIN

The general format for the Chassis Number/VIN for these cars is:

X-A2S1N-XXX-A

VIN, First Position (“X” in the above example):

This is simply dismissed by the factory as “non significant”!

VIN, Second Position (“A” in the above example):

= Engine type

848cc
998
1275cc Cooper S and 1275 GT

VIN, Third Position (“2S” in the above example):

= Body type

2S = 2-door saloon/sedan. (Except Mk III Copper S and 1275GT) Caution: bureaucratic bungles often interpret this as 25 (twenty-five)
2W = Estate (“2 Door Dual Purpose”)
D = 2 door saloon (Mk III Cooper S and 1275GT only)
U = Pick-up. Caution: U and V can be mistaken one for the other.
V = Panel van. Caution: U and V can be mistaken one for the other.

VIN, Fourth Position (“1N” in the above example):

[Blank] = Mini 850. Produced only in the “round nose” style
1 = Round nose, traditional Mini body style. Includes: Mini 1000, Mk III Cooper S, Van, and Pick-up.
2 = Clubman, square nose style. Includes: Clubman saloon, Clubman Estate, and 1275GT.

VIN, Fifth Position (“N” in the above example):

N = Mini 1000

VIN, Number positions (“###” in the above example):

= The sequential build number:

Unlike the earlier cars, each “type” started with number 101; e.g., the first Mini 850 in this range started with 101 as did the first Mini 1000, the first Mk III Cooper S, etc.

VIN, Last position (“A” in the above example):

= Assembly plant. Officially, “Internal Use Only”

If used at all, this would be “A” for English built cars. All English built Minis were now being built at Longbridge.

A = Longbridge

Commission Number

The general format for the Commission Number is:

N20S-XXX

Commission Number, First Positions (“N20S” in the above example):

= Car type

20U = Pick-up
20V = Van
20W = Clubman Estate
D20S = Mini 850
N20D = Mk III Cooper S
N20S = Mini 1000
S20D = 1275GT
S20S = Clubman

Commission Number positions (“###” in the above example):

Sequential number starting at 101 for each car type.






1974 “Model Year” To 1980 “Model Year” – English Built



VIN

The general format for the VIN for these cars is:

X-K2S1N-XXX-A

VIN, First Position (“X” in the above example):

This is simply dismissed by the factory as “non significant”!

VIN, Second Position (“K” in the above example):

= Engine type

A = [Unknown if this was used. If so, it indicated any of the A series engines still in production at that time]
C = 1098cc
E = 1275cc
K = 848cc
L = 998cc

VIN, Third Position (“2S” in the above example):

= Body type

2D: The factory microfiche does not list a designator for the 1275GT. This would imply there wasn’t one; however, it is likely the 2D designator was still used. The microfiche shows 2D used for the 1980 model year. If no designator is listed, the Commission number must be used to identify the 1275GT.
2S = 2-door saloon/sedan. (Except 1275GT) Caution: bureaucratic bungles often interpret this as 25 (twenty-five)
2W = Estate (“2 Door Dual Purpose”)
U = Pick-up. Caution: U and V can be mistaken one for the other.
V = Panel van. Caution: U and V can be mistaken one for the other.

VIN, Fourth Position (“1” in the above example):

1 = Round nose, traditional Mini body style. Includes: Mini 850, Mini 850 City, Mini 850 Special Deluxe, Mini 1000, Van (848cc and 998cc), Mini Special 1098cc, and Pick-up (850cc and 998cc).
2 = Clubman, square nose style. Includes: Clubman Saloon (998cc Automatic and 1098cc Manual), Clubman Estate (998cc Automatic and 1098cc Manual), and 1275GT.

VIN, Fifth Position (“N” in the above example):

N = Special Deluxe (Except for North America). Includes the Mini 850 Special Deluxe, the Mini 1000, and the Mini Special 1098cc.
North America:
A = 1970
B = 1971
C = 1972
D = 1973
E = 1974
F = 1975
G = 1976
H = 1977
J = 1978
L = 1979

VIN, Number positions (“###” in the above example):

= The sequential build number:

Each “type” of car (with one exception) started with number 101; e.g., the first Mini 850 in this range started with 101 as did the first Mini 1000, the first 1275GT, etc.

The factory records list one exception: the export Mini Special 1098cc. The starting number, for some reason, is listed as 1012011

VIN, Last position (“A” in the above example):

= Assembly plant. Officially, “Internal Use Only”

If used at all, this would be “A” for English built cars.

A = Longbridge

COMMISSION NUMBER

The general format for the Commission Number is:

N20S-XXX

Commission Number, First Positions (“N20S” in the above example):

= Car type

20U = Pick-up
20V = Van
20W = Clubman Estate
B20S = Mini City
D20S = Mini 850
J20S = Mini 1100 Special (UK only)
N20S = Mini 1000
S20D = 1275GT
S20S = Clubman
T20S = Mini 850 Super

Commission Number positions (“###” in the above example):

Starting numbers are as follows:
20U = 13205L
20V = 84679L
20W = 77031A
B20S = 101
D20S = 83622L
J20S = 101
N20S = 20531L and 230547A
S20D = 19416A
S20S = 104632A
T20S = 101

[FONT='Times New Roman']Note that there is no listed explanation for the “A” and “L” endings. If these are intended to be the same as used for VIN numbers, the “A” would be Longbridge. Literature has suggested that “L” = Morocco! This has not been confirmed from factory microfiche.[/FONT]
</B>
The information used to compile the following was taken from factory service parts lists, factory microfiche, and factory CDs. Under close scrutiny, there appears to be some conflicts and mistakes in the factory number schemes, but, for the most part, the listings are accurate enough for car identification.

Please note that the Chassis (VIN) number and the Commission number are only one indication of the actual model and date of the car. The Chassis number plate is easily duplicated, especially on early cars, and it is not unusual for later cars not meeting US DOT and EPA standards to have earlier Chassis number plates attached to them to get them into the US illegally. Also, Chassis number plates have been known to be “faked” to turn a less valuable car into a more valuable one; e.g., a standard Saloon into a Cooper or Cooper S.

[SIZE=4]Please scroll down to view relevant sections.[/SIZE]


Oct 1980 to Nov 1985 – English Built

VIN

Note that the VIN plate for these cars is likely marked, “Austin Rover Group LTD”

It is possible that the dating in the factory microfiche is incorrect and the change date is October 1984, not 1985. Major changes were made by October 1984 (for instance, 8.4” brakes and 12” wheels became standard).

The general format for the VIN for these cars is:

SAX-X-K2S1N-XXX-A

VIN, First Three Positions (“SAX” in the above example):

This is the World Make Identifier. The factory microfiche indicates this was started on these cars in Feb 1981.

SAX = MG-Rover

VIN, Fourth Position (“X” in the above example):

This is simply dismissed by the factory as “non significant”!

VIN, Fifth Position (“K” in the above example):

= Engine type

C = 1098cc
K = 848cc
L = 998cc

VIN, Sixth (and Seventh) Position (“2S” in the above example):

= Body type

2S = 2-door saloon/sedan. Caution: bureaucratic bungles often interpret this as 25 (twenty-five)
2W = Estate (“2 Door Dual Purpose”)
G = P.O. Mail Van
U = Pick-up. Caution: U and V can be mistaken one for the other.
V = Panel van. Caution: U and V can be mistaken one for the other.

VIN, Eighth Position (“1” in the above example):

= Series of model

1 = Round nose, traditional Mini body style.
2 = Clubman, square nose style.

VIN, Ninth Position (“N” in the above example):

= Specification

N = HL, Special, HLE, or Mayfair
R = Mini 25
S = Mayfair (LHD – France only)

VIN, Number positions (“###” in the above example):

= The sequential build number:

Build numbers are not listed. It is suspected that they carry on with the numbers from the previous series of cars; i.e., numbers were not started from 101, again.

VIN, Last position (“A” in the above example):

= Assembly plant. Officially, “Internal Use Only”

If used at all, this would be “A” for English built cars.

A = Longbridge






Nov 1985 to Circa 1990?? – English Built

VIN

Note that the VIN plate for these cars is likely marked, “Austin Rover Group LTD”

It is possible that the start date is really November 1984, not 1985 as stated in the factory microfiche.

The general format for the VIN for these cars is:

SAX-X-L2S1N20-XXX-A

VIN, First Three Positions (“SAX” in the above example)

This is the World Make Identifier.

SAX = MG-Rover

VIN, Fourth Position (“X” in the above example):

This is simply dismissed by the factory as “non significant”!

VIN, Fifth Position (“L” in the above example):

= Engine type

L = 998cc

VIN, Sixth (and Seventh) Position (“2S” in the above example):

= Body type

2S = 2-door saloon/sedan. Caution: bureaucratic bungles often interpret this as 25 (twenty-five)

VIN, Eighth Position (“1” in the above example):

= Series of body

1 = Round nose, traditional Mini body style.

VIN, Ninth Position (“N” in the above example):

= Class

N = HLE, Mayfair (RHD)
O = E, City E
S = Mayfair (LHD)

VIN, Tenth Position (“2” in the above example):

= Model year

2 = 1984 on (This conflicts with the microfiche indicating this position was used starting in November 1985.)

VIN, Eleventh Position (“0” in the above example):

= Steering

0 = RHD
1 = LHD

VIN, Number positions (“###” in the above example):

= The sequential build number:

Build numbers are not listed. It is suspected that they carry on with the numbers from the previous series of cars; i.e., numbers were not started from 101, again.

VIN, Last position (“A” in the above example):

= Assembly plant. Officially, “Internal Use Only”

If used at all, this would be “A” for English built cars.

A = Longbridge






1990 XN-----010001 On (1300cc cars only) – English Built

VIN

The general format for the VIN for these cars is:

SAX-XN-N-A-Y-B-B-D-######

VIN, First Three Positions (“SAX” in the above example)

= World Make Identifier.

SAX = MG-Rover

VIN, Fourth and Fifth Positions (“XN” in the above example):

XN = Mini 1300

VIN, Sixth Position (“N” in the above example):

= Class

N = Sport, Cooper, Cabriolet
V = Kensington
W = HLS, Mayfair
Y = City, Sprite

VIN, Seventh Position (“A” in the above example):

= Body type

A = 2-door saloon/sedan.
B = Cabriolet

VIN, Eighth Position (“Y” in the above example):

= Engine

D = 1300 Carb
M = 1300 Carb
X = 1300 SPi (standard compression ratio, 9.4:1)
Y = 1300 SPi (high compression ratio, 10.1:1)
Z = 1300 MPi (high compression ratio, 10.1:1)

VIN, Ninth Position (“B” in the above example):

= RHD/LHD, Transmission type, Final Drive

B = RHD, Manual, 3.105
C = RHD, Manual, 3.21
E = RHD, Manual, 2.76
K = RHD, Automatic
M = LHD, Manual, 3.105
N = LHD, Manual, 3.21
R = LHD, Manual, 2.76
Y = LHD, Automatic

VIN, Tenth Position (“B” in the above example):

= Model Change

A = 1300 Special Edition
B = 1300

VIN, Eleventh Position (“D” in the above example):

= Assembly Plant

D = Longbridge

VIN, Number positions (“######” in the above example):

= The sequential build number:

Starting with 010001

 

From appearances your car has been backdated. An 80s+ car with a 70's VIN plate id. Look for a date mo/yr stamp on your wiper motor or on the latch for your boot.

 

Re VINS, I was trying to decode a VIN for one on Ebay, which looked to not be the 1978 that it was listed as. The VIN was listed as XL2S1N 544419 A. But the 'N' threw me off because that VIN format and the position of the N in the VIN only is listed up through '79 (as 'L'). Am I reading it right?

 

Sounds like you got at lemon. I would be willing to take it off your hands for a couple hundred $$. If I was you I would sell it now, before you waste any more money on that money pit.


Did it work? Do you want to sell it to me?

Didnt think so, I wouldn't sell it. But it was worth a shot.

Congrats on the new Mini. Hope you enjoy it.

 

Well, if it IS a 1980's Mini, this actually works out even better for me, because in my other thread "25 Year Law..." I figured that the newest Mini I could legally have in the U.S. was a 1981 model. So my car is not really as old as I originally thought.

As far as the car itself, overall I'm still happy with it and I don't regret buying it. As soon as I swap that tranny for a manual unit, the car will run reliably day in and day out.

From there, I can save up and by a 1,275cc unit, modern brakes, modern instrumentation, auxillary driving lamps, and numerous other little components. Then, it's off with the body and a completely new paintjob; BRG green with a Union Jack on the roof.

EDIT: Here's a picture of the fender issue. Is this how the wider fenders are supposed to be fitted to the body? Or did the guy do a half-assed job of it?