how hot is too hot? a question about coolant.
how hot is too hot? a question about coolant.
my temp gauge was up to just under 212 today. as soon as it cools, i'll be checking the radiator to make sure its full up. meanwhile, i'm wondering how hot is too hot and should i be using coolant or water or a mixture?
just to clarify, this is for a classic mini.
just to clarify, this is for a classic mini.
tropical fan
blade is good for hot climates (hence the name I reckon~).
Maybe it's time to get the rad recored? For old Mini's they make some
serious race radiator's......
We used to see 220-225 towards the end of a twenty minute session....
Cris
Maybe it's time to get the rad recored? For old Mini's they make some
serious race radiator's......
We used to see 220-225 towards the end of a twenty minute session....
Cris
How Hot.
Here are some thoughts.
Unpressurized cooling systems can be run at just under 212 with out boiling. If you use a pressure cap, it raises the boiling point so you can go higher. That is why cars use pressurized systems.
A member of our club says all minis should use a 6 pound cap. My factory Manual for cars through 1978 says all Minis should use a 13 pound cap.
Another member of our club said...
If it did not spill water on the ground, it was not overheated!
I have a 190 degree (F) thermostat in my Mini. A thermostat will not limit the maximum temperature, it just sets the minimum and attempts to regulate to that.
The gauge on my 1978 Clubman LS does not have degrees, just bars to show the normal range and a red bar for too hot.
When my (Suzuki) Chevy / Geo / Tracker started getting warm in traffic, I finally tracked it down to a partially plugged radiator. A new radiator fixed it right up.
John
Unpressurized cooling systems can be run at just under 212 with out boiling. If you use a pressure cap, it raises the boiling point so you can go higher. That is why cars use pressurized systems.
A member of our club says all minis should use a 6 pound cap. My factory Manual for cars through 1978 says all Minis should use a 13 pound cap.
Another member of our club said...
If it did not spill water on the ground, it was not overheated!
I have a 190 degree (F) thermostat in my Mini. A thermostat will not limit the maximum temperature, it just sets the minimum and attempts to regulate to that.
The gauge on my 1978 Clubman LS does not have degrees, just bars to show the normal range and a red bar for too hot.
When my (Suzuki) Chevy / Geo / Tracker started getting warm in traffic, I finally tracked it down to a partially plugged radiator. A new radiator fixed it right up.
John
Thermostat
Yeah, when I got the car (1978 with 998 engine), some genius had removed the thermostat, then set the carb rich enough to keep it running. The temperature gauge was all over the place based on engine speed. The car failed the pollution test very badly.
I went to the local parts house and they had a thermostat for a 1972 Midget in stock. (I have had pretty good luck getting A series engine parts at the local stores by asking for parts for a Midget prior to 1974.)
I turned the carb jet 1 1/2 turns lean when the engine was up to temp. The car passed pollution test easily after attention to a few other minor adjustments.
I am not using the "tubular" type stat, I have heard varying opinions on the need for them. The engine temperature regulates fairly well. I have the heater core "on" full time as the "in line" heater valve was plugged, and the "standard" Mini heater valve won't work on this model car with out modifications. I just shut the air intake to keep from heating the car in the summer.
Since my car is an Aussie, that used to have an air pump, the radiator plumbing is a bit unusual. I need a thermostat cover now, and I will need a new radiator, but I have yet to see ones with the radiator top outlet toward the rear. The heater return goes to a fitting on the radiator, not to the water pump. The "T" fitting on the water pump is plugged off.
John
I went to the local parts house and they had a thermostat for a 1972 Midget in stock. (I have had pretty good luck getting A series engine parts at the local stores by asking for parts for a Midget prior to 1974.)
I turned the carb jet 1 1/2 turns lean when the engine was up to temp. The car passed pollution test easily after attention to a few other minor adjustments.
I am not using the "tubular" type stat, I have heard varying opinions on the need for them. The engine temperature regulates fairly well. I have the heater core "on" full time as the "in line" heater valve was plugged, and the "standard" Mini heater valve won't work on this model car with out modifications. I just shut the air intake to keep from heating the car in the summer.
Since my car is an Aussie, that used to have an air pump, the radiator plumbing is a bit unusual. I need a thermostat cover now, and I will need a new radiator, but I have yet to see ones with the radiator top outlet toward the rear. The heater return goes to a fitting on the radiator, not to the water pump. The "T" fitting on the water pump is plugged off.
John
Mine boiled over day 1....
This guy was refered to me as having 'the word'. I have not found his King James version but have been following his advice.....
-Don't use more than about 25% coolant mix with water. Unless the car will be submitted to freezing tempuratures. Any coolant to water ratio past 25% will hinder the water's ability to dissapate heat. The cooling system uses 1 gallon, so mix 1 quart of anti-freeze with 3 quarts of water. I like to use distilled water. Less minerals to corrode the radiator.
I've been running 25% (w/out wetter) with no problems ever since my first burp. {1275, lcb, HIF-6, K&N, straight PlayMini twin dtm} But I've wanted to pull the radiator & flush ever since then
This is one of those wonderful sites buried out there about the Mini
***********
I'm celebrating my 1 year ownership anav' of an 'oldie'
can I call a modified '79 a classic??????
da Orange Crate = '79 shell with MK1 mods.......
Wetter has beeen recommended and when I flush next week I plan to go that way..... maybe 1/4 bottle in the mix? Most interesting if you go to the site is making sure the fan is installed right.....
-Don't use more than about 25% coolant mix with water. Unless the car will be submitted to freezing tempuratures. Any coolant to water ratio past 25% will hinder the water's ability to dissapate heat. The cooling system uses 1 gallon, so mix 1 quart of anti-freeze with 3 quarts of water. I like to use distilled water. Less minerals to corrode the radiator.
I've been running 25% (w/out wetter) with no problems ever since my first burp. {1275, lcb, HIF-6, K&N, straight PlayMini twin dtm} But I've wanted to pull the radiator & flush ever since then
This is one of those wonderful sites buried out there about the Mini
***********
I'm celebrating my 1 year ownership anav' of an 'oldie'
can I call a modified '79 a classic??????
da Orange Crate = '79 shell with MK1 mods.......
Wetter has beeen recommended and when I flush next week I plan to go that way..... maybe 1/4 bottle in the mix? Most interesting if you go to the site is making sure the fan is installed right.....
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Mine runs at 70 degrees celcius when warm, and after a good running, will move up to 90 degrees celcius when sitting idle, but goes back down to 70 once you get moving again. That is with 100% water (distilled)
Be sure to check your water temp gauge for accuracy before taking significant steps or repairs on the cooling system. Especially if your Smiths or Jaeger gauge is original. Just remove the gauge and sending unit, put it in a cold pot of water on the stove, and bring it up to a boil (212F).
Also, if your engine is overheating consistently, water additives probably won't cure the problem. Additives such as "Water Wetter", etc., are great for a good engine, but won't fix a bad radiator, scaling in the head, or a bad water pump.
Good luck, let us know!
Also, if your engine is overheating consistently, water additives probably won't cure the problem. Additives such as "Water Wetter", etc., are great for a good engine, but won't fix a bad radiator, scaling in the head, or a bad water pump.
Good luck, let us know!
Heat
Water wetter, or anti freeze is the lubricant for the water pump seal. You need to run one or the other unless you plan to change the water pump often.
Like most cars in the north, mine runs 50% (Ethelyne Glycol) coolant.
(E.G) Anti Freeze also increases the boiling point of the water. I don't know what it does for heat transfer efficiency. There are other antifreeze coolants, or additives but I don't know anything about them.
John, N.W. of Chicago.
Like most cars in the north, mine runs 50% (Ethelyne Glycol) coolant.
(E.G) Anti Freeze also increases the boiling point of the water. I don't know what it does for heat transfer efficiency. There are other antifreeze coolants, or additives but I don't know anything about them.
John, N.W. of Chicago.
Jdewey is right. u can run even straight antifreeze it is better lubricant for water pump. i dont know what pressure your cooling system is rated for, but lets say 10 psi for discussion sake; if your system is working right (no leaks) the boiling point of your coolant should be about 260 deg f. if your system is leaking a little bit, you are in deep do do. u overheat !!! key is NO LEAKS WHATSOEVER. go buy a radiator pressure tester and test your system cold at the pressure recomended by manufacture and if the pressure wont stay in cooling system,, presto !!! there is your problem. and under pressure you can find the leak. that is for every internal combustion system that uses liquid coolant ( old beetles need not apply ). and remember no tap water or spring water, only distilled water. so long
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