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Hi guys,
Its been a while since I have been on this site. I used to own a 2003 R53. But recently just purchased a 1974 1275 GT "clubman". It has a 1275 A+ motor from a mkIII. with an extra front mount radiator and Oil cooler. The interior has been fully stripped and has a half cage with racing seats, plexiglass windows and quite a few other performance bits. It should arrive on Tuesday. Im quite excited to get back into a mini and an original one at that. Im sure i will get some flac for it being a "clubman" but i like it.
Ill post up some pictures once she arrives. it has a pretty unique paint job.
Saw that one posted somewhere. Ebay? Cool that someone on NAM bought it. Would love to have a classic Mini someday. Best of luck. That paint job though....
Subscribed to this thread because I really want to see what you get and what you end up doing with it.
Now that you're back in a Mini, looking forward to seeing you back with our group someday.
I wont be able to travel too far as i am quite busy with work and planning a wedding as well as all the AutoX/RallyX i would like to do, but if its close i will try to make it. I spoke with JPMM the other day...
Originally Posted by Rich Rodichok
Saw that one posted somewhere. Ebay? Cool that someone on NAM bought it. Would love to have a classic Mini someday. Best of luck. That paint job though....
Subscribed to this thread because I really want to see what you get and what you end up doing with it.
Ebay is correct. Ive got about 10k into it after shipping and what not. Yeah the paint.... and the wheels... Not a huge fan but we'll see what i can do. A couple other things as well it doesn't have any bumpers or rally lights...
Interesting how the extra radiator (heater core?) is plumbed, when I did mine I took the hot side out of the head like it is here but brought it back to the top radiator hose so it went thru the radiator.
I've heard both versions used, but no consensus on which way works better.
Interesting how the extra radiator (heater core?) is plumbed, when I did mine I took the hot side out of the head like it is here but brought it back to the top radiator hose so it went thru the radiator.
I've heard both versions used, but no consensus on which way works better.
I dont think it will work well the way it is plumbed... if the Aux Radiator flows better than the heater core the fluid will follow the path of least resistance. I either need to put them in series or only run one at a time
I wont be able to travel too far as i am quite busy with work and planning a wedding as well as all the AutoX/RallyX i would like to do, but if its close i will try to make it. I spoke with JPMM the other day...
We might just have to hold a group meet-up for lunch in Comanche someday. I'll bring my '74 classic. Good luck with the planning and your new '74!
I dont think it will work well the way it is plumbed... if the Aux Radiator flows better than the heater core the fluid will follow the path of least resistance. I either need to put them in series or only run one at a time
I've had some say taking the cooled water back to the lower hose is the right way to do it, didn't make sense to me tho....since this car came from a warm climate it sorta makes sense how they used the heater valve to control water to the aux radiator, but in Iowa you won't want both the heater and aux radiator on at the same time!
I made a block that fit under the heater valve to tap off for the aux radiator and used a ball valve to control flow to the it, that way my heater worked as normal.
After re mounting the seat again raising it 1.5 inches off the floor and using 3x4" 3/16" sandwich plates on either side of the sheet metal.
also fabricated a new hydraulic hand brake mounting plate that's a but more sturdy then the previous mount. I also did some plumbing for it but before I could finish I realized the proportional valve that controls brake bias needs to be before the hydro hand brake. On the class is minis the prop valve is on the rear beam which also acts as the "T" for the rear lines. So before fitting then I'll need to find a new prop valve that has manual control and plumb it in the cab next to the handbrake... brakes suck. Also had to get a bunch of special fittings/unions and rent flare tools and benders... and used 6' of brake like for 2' of actual plumbing.... brakes suck....
new wheels came today I got them fitted. Look nice and fit real well went from 5x10 to 6x10.
car also got a glasspack put on 1-3/4" it fit over the existing pipe and calmed it down a lot. Still have the option to switch to a straight pipe with ease.
also noticed if i put in 93 vs 87 I don't have engine run on after the key shuts off. Also known as dieseling....
first autox is on Sunday the 23rd. I'm going to make some modifications to an old jack and weld a nut to the crank so I can run it up and down with my impact when changing out the wheels and supper sticky tyres!
Last edited by rhcp4life; Apr 17, 2017 at 08:38 PM.
A few more updates. Brake bias control, Front Roll cage (now 6point bolt in.), new steering wheel and recently rewired Electrical kill switch and mounted a small carbon dash mount for the switch.
Front Roll bar install and steering wheel
New Carbon Fiber plate for battery shut off switch
Steering wheel insert finally installed.
Last edited by rhcp4life; Feb 7, 2018 at 06:03 PM.