I have a 1275 with HF-6 (same as the 44) and K&N cone

if I run anything under 93 the car runs like crap

I use regular oil 20-50 and add ZDDP ...

 

Mine is a 1275 with a single HS4. I have to use 93 octane, and I may try a mix with race gas in the spring. I used to use ZDDP+ but three years ago switched to Brad Penn 20W50 that has a high zinc content.

 

I've never compared price

but I buy 5 quart jugs of dino oil on sale locally and the zddp additive costs me $8 per oil change on line - since the additive bottle is small the shipping is not $$

what's the cost dif' 'tween dino and these special oils?

I don't see a need to ship 5 quarts of oil when all I need is 2 oz of additive ..... my choice.

what I suggest is do all the math .... or do what feels good! OTOH If a couple of dollars one way or the other is an issue owning a classic is probably a bad idea.

To Wit: not long ago my brother decided to buy a used '11 Ferrari. He is NOT a car guy ... I warned him .... and weeks into ownership it developed a minor problem. He does not live near me so I could not help. He lives in the boonies so the nearest Ferrari dealer is half a day away .... and he was afraid to trust a local mechanic.

He sold the car in 3 months at a huge loss ...... well, he DID cross 'own a Ferrari' off his bucket list

 

I run Brad Penn 20W50 also.....I used to mix in the ZDDP in regular oil too, but regular oil has gotten pretty damn expensive now too.


I buy Brad Penn from my local oil distributor for about $5/ qt.

 

I didn't buy the oil online, i just went over to autozone and bought it. It was only like $6 a quart.

So, i guess it doesn't matter then as long as you have the zinc content. Either with the vr1 or just using additive.
Also, what oil change interval do you guys do?

Next thing to fix is electrical. I went for a drive only to find my turn signals and horn don't work lol.

 

my car is driven very little, maybe 2000 a year tops so I use a 12 month schedule; I'm also in a warm place so the car never sees cold .....

but most writers and "authorities" recommend a 3000 mile schedule especially due to the oil serving the tranny. They also do NOT recommend any synthetics in what I've read.

I'm very comfortable with extended use oils and intervals in my 'modern' cars, but stick to a 12 month/3000 rule in the 79

 

beginning the electrics huh ....

know how to use a volt/ohm meter? If not, get someone to give you a lesson on the basics .....

a very good place to start is to replace the fuse box .... not expensive and easy to replace and easier to replace than find a bad connection inside.

http://www.minimania.com/part/AAU183...-Box-Late-Type

 

Yeah I know how to use the multimeter. I actually had to do a bunch of electric work to even get it running.
The previous owner installed some crappy immobilizer / power locking and power window mechanism. That wasn't even working and it wouldn't allow the car engine to crank. So i had to remove all that and then get the power windows working again. (I actually wish i could get the crank windows back, but i don't have any of the parts from it :( )

 

since you say you have a lot of vibrations in the cab you should check what type of subframe mounts you have.....
front of front sub std rubber mount....
http://www.minispares.com/product/Cl...ck%20to%20shop
top tower std rubber mount....
http://www.minispares.com/product/Cl...ck%20to%20shop
between tower and balk head....
http://www.minispares.com/product/Cl...aspx|Back%20to
rear of front sub between sub and cab floor...
http://www.minispares.com/product/Cl...ck%20to%20shop
this is what the previous owner might have fitted the solid conversion this will transfer any engine and road vibrations to body...
http://www.minispares.com/product/Cl...ck%20to%20shop