Hi..the hight is all according what the previous owner has done.........jack up one side of car and remove front and rear wheel take a look at cones...if they look like this.......
http://www.minisport.com/suskit5-min...l-car-set.html
then its an ajustable set up.......
if it look like thiis....
http://www.minisport.com/21a1684-alu...ion-strut.html
http://www.minisport.com/21a530-genu...trut-each.html
then they are standard.....BUT they may have been cut down.....or it could be a Hydro unit (wet) suspension and may need pumping up.......

 

WHOOPS

ALL STOP ....


did you buy one of THESE?



http://www.minimania.com/part/C-GEU9...otor-Pre-verto

We've taken a modern Japanese high torque starter and machined a mounting flange to mate it to an A-Series engine. It has a proper solenoid that positively engages the starter when the switch is activated, and it is powerful enough to crank the highest compression engine. Every race car should have one of these and in fact they are so powerfull you could probably drive around the pits with them (NOT recommended!). Note: NO core charge!
Wiring is simple. Just bypass the original stand-alone solenoid to give the new starter battery voltage at all times. Then extend the solenoid start wire to the small start terminal on the new motor. You'll be back up and running in no time.
Mini owners note: for pre-verto ring gear assembly (107 teeth) only.

many folks are selling this and it is curve ball to a Classic guy trying to help you . . . . ... SO is this what you bought? If so there ARE wiring changes involved. Not BIG changes ... but changes and included in the highlight above

 

Yes. That's what I bought. Just need to do the wiring.

 

That starter wont work on a pre-Verto unless you put a new ringear on flywheel as the orignal fly wheel starter is designed to pull the teeth of motor to ringear that motor has the teeth permantly in ringear......

 

I've seen these advertised for years and while I understand your "will not work" comment

it would seem that if it DID NOT WORK the places selling it would have stopped by now . . .

the write up specifically states that it will work with a pre-verto 107 gear set up . . .

what looks like a vert' starter is actually something else . . . .

Mini owners note: for pre-verto ring gear assembly (107 teeth) only.

 

Love it! What are your plans with this Mini?

-Luccia

 

Ha! For now...I just want to drive it. It's been so long since I've driven her. She was stored in my friends garage in the UK while I was doing a tour in Japan.

 

haha makes sense. Well congrats on being reunited.

 

See attached. It broke. It looks like it's just a ground, could I make my own or do I have this particular part?

 

where was it? Looks like a simple condenser folks hook up to try and reduce static the radio picks up. There was a similar thread not too long ago. If that's what it is ... it is meaningless/un-needed.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/b...g84p/5260744-P

good writeup about the problem trying to be solved: http://www.oldcarsweekly.com/news/ho...o_interference

Only place I know a condenser like this is required is in the dizzy.
http://www.7ent.com/products/condensor-25d-dcb101.html

this item is replaced at the same time as the points under routine maintenance (until you go Pertronix and save yourself the trouble)
I'm guessing yours is NOT from inside the dizzy.


Can't speak from experience about how well the radio gizmos work cuz altho I have a radio in my 79, I have no antenna! I occasionally play a CD but otherwise it is just for looks .... installed by previous owner; I listen to the engine sounds!

Once in a while at car shows I'll fire up



and if you don't know the significance, hang your head in shame

{yep, that IS the original sound track on CD}

 

That wire is from the ignition coil and goes to a nut that holds the ignition coil. I think it's a ground wire.

I was watching the remake of the Italian Job last nite.

 

a useless that I described

***************

edit

sorry if this seems rude but . .

do you have a Haynes or other manual? or set of wire diagrams? Know how to read them?

is there something like this on the wiring schematic?

NOOOOOOOO

if you are going to play with these lil toys, you are going to LEARN or PAY ....

LEARN to do it yourself (and a question here is not going to help you every time) or

PAY someone who can do it for you . . .

{or the very lucky ... move to a house where the guy next door is a car guru. IT HAPPENS ... but don't count on it}

if you ARE trying to learn .... you need what I mentioned above: Haynes & how to read the diagrams . . .

 

Yes. I do have a Haynes. Today I installed the '59D distributor' tune-up kit, changed spark plugs/wires, and installed a new ignition coil. The car actually started..well, after I charged the battery. Left it idling for a few min but had to turn it off because my daughter needed me. I suspect that I have a faulty battery, will test it w/ a multi-meter after I put my kid to sleep.

 

shoulda gone pertronix . . . no more points, points adjustment, or condenser . . .

 

My ignition coil is Pertronix.

 

http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/ignitor/default.aspx

For over thirty years, the Ignitor has proven itself in applications ranging from race cars to tractors. The Ignitor replaces breaker point and troublesome factory electronic ignitions with a dependable, self contained and maintenance free electronic ignition system. The Ignitor has been called the "stealth" ignition because of its quick installation and nearly undetectable presence under your distributor cap.

 

Thanks Capt. Would love to upgrade this summer. Here's a current picture of my car:

 

Well, just an update. My Mini is finally up & running. Turns out the fuel pump went bad too. Replaced it and now I am back on the road.

Where do you classic Mini owners buy your oil?

 

any place that has a decent price on 20w-50, I use Castor

AND I toss in a dose of ZDDP which can be a little harder to find. I usually buy from Eastwood

http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-s-z...-additive.html

 

We have the Eastwood stuff here in a three pack ,.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/ES2809730/



Love this pic.

 

at the same price as EASTWOOD ......

is your shipping less?

or are you just doing a 'drop ship'?

or in other words

since your price is no better and the product is clearly an EASTWOOD one, why should I order from you vs them?

BTW folks .... if you are doing any restoration type work, you want to look at the goodies EASTWOOD offers.

 

that's funny

when I got my 79 home, the fuel pump was the first thing I had to deal with .... leaked like crazy. And getting a wrench on the backside of the block to pull and replace? FORGET.ABOUT.IT!

 

ZDDP is in the Shell Rotella oil FYI

 

I buy Brad Penn....my local oil supplier has it in either 10W40 or 20W50 for $62/case, or about $5/qt.


Brad Penn has ZDDP already in it too....

 

I was cussin' up a storm trying to get a wrench back there!

I think the next thing I will tackle is the suspension. I feel like my head will pop off every time I hit a bump or a dip.