Operating temperature "tweaked" 1275
#1
Operating temperature "tweaked" 1275
Hello.........newbster here.
Been reading the posts on cooling issues/problems and didn't see/find the answer to my question...what is the expected (acceptable) operating temperature range I should expect for my 1275 bored .60/stroked 1275? Has LCB header (that I wrapped ) and has an aluminum radiator and I plumbed in a hose from the heater by-pass hose into the top of the radiator tank. 185 thermo and has oil cooler. I also have a 67 MGB that stays right at about 170 during a New England summer but the Mini lump on a warm summer day cruising is around 185 to 195...has new water pump, fan is on correctly. BTW, the header wrap really reduced the underhood heat factor. Running a BCE needle in HIF44.
Should I be concerned and stop staring at the temp gauge and relax and enjoy the ride? Not much more I can do to lower the temp..oh yeah, I have a manually operated fan in wheel well. On a nice 70 degree day the temperature stays right around 165.
Thanks
Been reading the posts on cooling issues/problems and didn't see/find the answer to my question...what is the expected (acceptable) operating temperature range I should expect for my 1275 bored .60/stroked 1275? Has LCB header (that I wrapped ) and has an aluminum radiator and I plumbed in a hose from the heater by-pass hose into the top of the radiator tank. 185 thermo and has oil cooler. I also have a 67 MGB that stays right at about 170 during a New England summer but the Mini lump on a warm summer day cruising is around 185 to 195...has new water pump, fan is on correctly. BTW, the header wrap really reduced the underhood heat factor. Running a BCE needle in HIF44.
Should I be concerned and stop staring at the temp gauge and relax and enjoy the ride? Not much more I can do to lower the temp..oh yeah, I have a manually operated fan in wheel well. On a nice 70 degree day the temperature stays right around 165.
Thanks
#2
My 1275 .060 over is set up with similar header and also has a GT7 longman head. I live in Phoenix Arizona where ambient temps can get as high as 120 DegF in the heat of the summer. With the stock cooling system minus the heater core (as is yours) mine would hit temps in the 220 DegF range when driving in high ambient temps on surface streets with stop lights. Coolant temps would climb sitting at lights, then not rise while at speed. Result was an occasional 230 DegF coolant temp. Too high in my opinion. Engine oil temp typically lags the coolant temp by ~ 15 minutes.
So last year I installed a Ford van heater core as a 2nd radiator and ran the line from the heater valve location through the heater core, then back to the hot side of the radiator. That combined with a 6-1/2" SPAL pusher fan and my coolant temps haven't exceeded 200 DegF since.
In my opinion, you are in the same boat as I was if you live in a hot climate. Deleting the heater core removed over a quart of coolant from the stock 1 gallon system. I didn't anticipate it having that much of an effect but it did. You might want to consider reinstalling it just to get the additional coolant volume back into the system.
Let me know if you want more information on my solution.
Good luck,
Jeff
So last year I installed a Ford van heater core as a 2nd radiator and ran the line from the heater valve location through the heater core, then back to the hot side of the radiator. That combined with a 6-1/2" SPAL pusher fan and my coolant temps haven't exceeded 200 DegF since.
In my opinion, you are in the same boat as I was if you live in a hot climate. Deleting the heater core removed over a quart of coolant from the stock 1 gallon system. I didn't anticipate it having that much of an effect but it did. You might want to consider reinstalling it just to get the additional coolant volume back into the system.
Let me know if you want more information on my solution.
Good luck,
Jeff
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