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Need advice: central exhaust

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Old Nov 18, 2009 | 11:10 AM
  #1  
ImagoX's Avatar
ImagoX
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Need advice: central exhaust

Hi all...

Fiona's exhaust is on its last legs - the cat is all banged to hell and the muffler canister is fugly and rusted. I'd like to take the opportunity to replace everything from the cat back, and hopefully have whoever does the installation lift the exhaust up back into the tunnel where it belongs (as it is, the pipe hangs down out of the exhaust tunnel a good 2-3 inches, which means I drag the cat all over the street any time I go over a speed bump or rut). Ouchies...

I was planning on using something like the Sportex MBBB9 (only $159 from GBCarparts before any link pipes) - I like the single port w/ rolled edge and the black canister, but it's out of stock.

QUESTIONS:

1. What have other people used to replace the stock exhaust on a 1275cc Mini? Did you like it? How did it hold up?
2. I'm assuming any muffler shop can install the new system in the center-mount position, yes? The stock exhaust is on the LH side...
3. Ideally, I'd like something that sounds a bit more aggressive, but that's not too buzzy on the highway - any suggestions?
 
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Old Nov 18, 2009 | 01:04 PM
  #2  
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Capt_bj
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PlayMini twin DTM ... all stainless construction ... but it still hangs low. Cat? What's a Cat {it is a collector car, ditch that puppy!}





1275 here with HIF-6 and K&N and LCB. Aggressive sound ....yes I think you can say that. Buzz is never a term I've heard used to describe it. I even get a nice 'burble" when I'm dragging the engine on a down shift slow down ... I recv nice comments about the sound from those who appreciate a throaty one ... Def' never mistaken for a 'ricer' exhaust

Like I said, all stainless, so not the least expensive one but after 5 years shows no signs of wear either.


btw - can someone tell me what "dtm" stands for?
 
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Old Nov 18, 2009 | 02:09 PM
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qskapunk
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"Dual Tip Muffler" i believe

Come on, Imagox, you should be able to install an exhaust system yourself, it's just 2 parts that bolt together. If you get the proper parts it should fit up inside the tunnel without any problems.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2009 | 02:24 PM
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How does the actual muffler attach to the underside of the car though? Bolts? Screws?

The dual-tip looks nice but I like the look of the single port better... Good to know about the sound tough - thanks! GBCarparts sells an all stainless DTM for only $184 which isn't bad... I'll try that if I can't find something else I like better, I guess.

Also, I plan to use the "cat delete" pipe to take off the cat, yes, but I'm still concerned about the exhaust pipe hanging down off the underside of the car... that just doesn't seem right.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2009 | 06:31 PM
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There should be some holes in the subframe that it will line up with the muffler mounts. They mount with an assortment of mountings:
http://www.7ent.com/images2/catalog_09/pages/080.htm

If your current exhaust is dragging or hanging low it probably isn't seated properly inside the end of the header (one pipe into another) or something is loose.
There is also a bracket that mounts to the back of the gearbox as a mounting point for the exhaust system. #8 in the above link (I assume you have a rod change) Your's might be broken or missing.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2009 | 09:21 PM
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I believe DTM means "Down The Middle"

-Brian
 

Last edited by bgrant570; Nov 19, 2009 at 09:31 AM.
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Old Nov 19, 2009 | 10:11 AM
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Mine had the one of those dual outlet sportex mufflers on it when I bought it. It thought it sounded pretty decent. It wasn't a real mean agressive sound if thats what you are looking for.

My exaust pipe was kinda rigged up in there and it burned some of the paint on the under side of the channel. So you may want to be careful of that.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2009 | 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by qskapunk
There should be some holes in the subframe that it will line up with the muffler mounts. They mount with an assortment of mountings:
http://www.7ent.com/images2/catalog_09/pages/080.htm

If your current exhaust is dragging or hanging low it probably isn't seated properly inside the end of the header (one pipe into another) or something is loose.
There is also a bracket that mounts to the back of the gearbox as a mounting point for the exhaust system. #8 in the above link (I assume you have a rod change) Your's might be broken or missing.
I can't tell if it's seated inside the header correctly, but there is a bracket up there - I remember seeing it when I was crammed under the car replacing the rod-change oil seal.

Re: mounting bracket - I have one of the left-mount brackets shown in that diagram, but I'm wanting to go "down the middle". BJ - can you peer under your car and see if the bracket near the muffler is bolted to the underside or if it's welded? If it's welded, I'll definitely need to go to a muffler place, as I don't have a rig.

I might end up going to a muffler shop anyway, as I'm not sure about the exhaust pipe going into the header - it definitely seems like it's sticking down too far. I can see the mandrel bend just aft of the header literally sticking down from the bottom of the car and not up in the channel like I'd expect. This is causing the cat to ride low and drag over anything taller than 2" off the street.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2009 | 03:03 PM
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argggg .... this damn thing just crashed and ate a reply (database, NOT my machine).... grrrrrr .... so starting again

Re: mounting bracket - I have one of the left-mount brackets shown in that diagram, but I'm wanting to go "down the middle". BJ - can you peer under your car and see if the bracket near the muffler is bolted to the underside or if it's welded? If it's welded, I'll definitely need to go to a muffler place, as I don't have a rig.


#the bracket near the muffler#, number 14 in the 7 page referenced, is a bolt on. And by the way, I don't use it.

An aftermarket system, especially one where you change the routing, is quite possibly not going to use the stock brackets. As you can see in the pics my PlayMini Twin DTM uses a bracket that uses two bolts to the rear crossbeam of the subframe. Drill two holes and away you go. I have a hanger up front just aft of where the straight pipe meets the header (LCB) and nothing until this rear bracket. There IS a finger bracket just forward of the muffler which COULD be tied to the mount you reference. You'd need to fabricate a handle on the car side but that would be easy and could then use a standard rubber hanger. I've survived w/out this for 5 + years.

My pipe is about 50% in the tunnel .... not fully recessed BUT my pipe is also of larger diameter than stock. Consider the air gap for heat transfer. In any case, a CAT would have needed to hang lower so I'd guess you could gain some clearance. My low spot is the muffler, where I get 4 1/4 at the low spot of the muffler, between the wheels...car EMPTY {This was learned when I first went to board the AutoTrain which requires 4" and measures with the driver in the car. uh oh . . . but I digress}

Here's a picture from my right side door to the left rear wheel. The little finger you see welded around the pipe just fwd of the muffler is the bracket I describe and do not use.


If you want more pics just ask I'll see what I can do. Exhaust work is a lot easier if you have access to a lift.... And damn ... rust to be chased

WRT to DTM ... thanks to those who responded but I'm not sure we've nailed it. There are plenty of down the middle exhaust and dual tip muffler that are not called DTM.

DTM SEEMS to ususlly have an upward kick at the end, then a cut that makes them flush vertically. But PlayMini also has a "twin DTM side exit" that shows no 'kick' . . . I'm **** enuf to keep wondering
 
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Old Nov 19, 2009 | 08:56 PM
  #10  
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DTM

Did a quick search on google and found this post in a forum about racing BMWs and DTM exhaust tips:

"The Purpose of DTM Style Exhaust Systems:

On these cars the exhaust systems are bolted to the cars and not suspended by rubber hangers. High reving engines cause a lot of exhaust pressure to leave the tips. By turning the tips upwards, the exhaust pressure as it hits the atmosphere is now pushing down on the exhaust system causing an added amount of rear downforce applied to the rear of the vehicle, thus increasing the performance of the car
"

Not sure how true that is, but it does seem to refer to the angle of the tip.

-Brian
 
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Old Nov 20, 2009 | 04:32 AM
  #11  
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I use a twin box RC40 centre exit. Its the best as to tunning for that little bit more of hp and the sounds is great. A nice deep tone. As for mounting, I just drilled 2 holes in my rear subframe and used 2 long bolts with rubber spacers.

Good luck!
 
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Old Nov 20, 2009 | 06:17 PM
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I'm now beginning to understand how classic mini mufflers tend to get knocked off pretty regularly-low hanging "turbo muffler" attached with clamp and flange. Yep, Capt BJ, I understand why you don't recommend using the flange and clamp. That's pretty vulnerable with a flat leading edge. I have a similar shaped muffler on the back of my P'up, but it's tucked up higher and is a part of MiniTec's custom-fabbed stainless system that uses traditional rubber hangers. My weak point is the glass pack welded in midway back, which has about 3 inches clearance. Needless to say, I've flattened the bottom of it as it rubs on every speed bump I encounter. Guess I need to grow up and raise the ride height an inch.

ImagoX- don't feel bad about wanting a muffler shop do the work. In a heartbeat, I'd do the same.
 
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Old Nov 22, 2009 | 05:49 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by dimini
Guess I need to grow up and raise the ride height an inch.
Nooooo! Damn the man and his freedom-squelching speed bumps!

ImagoX- don't feel bad about wanting a muffler shop do the work. In a heartbeat, I'd do the same.
I'm still pondering... I guess it'll depend on how much it ends up costing me. I certainly don't have a lift, just ramps, which means cramming myself underneath. Oy...
 
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