Ohhhhhhhh... (bleep!) me.
If you do end up welding it, be careful about areas where you can't get behind the patch to paint/coat it with something. The heat from the welder will burn the old paint and if you are not able to re-coat it from behind it will just rust through from behind right where the weld was.
I feel your pain, I pulled up some of that damn dynamat that was on my floor and it trapped the moisture real good. It looks just as bad as yours.
I feel your pain, I pulled up some of that damn dynamat that was on my floor and it trapped the moisture real good. It looks just as bad as yours.
Yeah, I've heard nightmare stories about Dynamat and moisture. Most sane uses call for a complete de-rusting, followed by primer and then something bullet-proof like the POR15 or Rhino Cote before applying the mat. I chose the noise because I know that Dynamat adds a LOT of weight, and my car's already slow enough as it is.
It's amazing how the pans rust on the inside of the car and not the outside. Most of my floor pan rust originated from the inside.
I guess the old saying "Don't fix it if it ain't broke" doesn't apply to Minis cause theres always something or other that needs fixed...
Sometimes, I think my love for British cars is a curse, 2 Minis and a Triumph motorcycle in the works... between all of the repairs there might not be enough time to drive any of them.
I guess the old saying "Don't fix it if it ain't broke" doesn't apply to Minis cause theres always something or other that needs fixed...
Sometimes, I think my love for British cars is a curse, 2 Minis and a Triumph motorcycle in the works... between all of the repairs there might not be enough time to drive any of them.
OH CARP !!!
Sorry the tin worm has struck your Mini.
Matt my friend, my advice to you is to fix that rust properly. No offense meant to all who like the chemical fixes. It won't last & you WILL be back there doing it again. I'd bet money that the hole that you find in the near future would be even larger.
I know it sucks, but fix it right & fix it once. My guess is that CHKMINI knows who you should go to.
Matt my friend, my advice to you is to fix that rust properly. No offense meant to all who like the chemical fixes. It won't last & you WILL be back there doing it again. I'd bet money that the hole that you find in the near future would be even larger.
I know it sucks, but fix it right & fix it once. My guess is that CHKMINI knows who you should go to.
ImagoX, there's only a single layer of metal in the floor. Then there is an inner sill and an outer sill. In BJ's pic someone has put in a floor piece on top of the rusty old floor w/o cutting out the rust then covered it all in bondo. Likely it needs the lower repair panel fr the inner fender as well.
The reason Minis rust inside as water leaks in from the windshield seal, as well as rust holes that develop around the heater air intake (up high on the inner wings). The water travels down behind and under the carpet where the mats soak it up and hold it to the floor.
The reason Minis rust inside as water leaks in from the windshield seal, as well as rust holes that develop around the heater air intake (up high on the inner wings). The water travels down behind and under the carpet where the mats soak it up and hold it to the floor.
I chipped away at the damage and dug out about a 3"x9" section... the sill under the door is somewhat involved. I also noticed while cleaning up in preparation for the carpet that a section of the paint at the bottom of the passenger-side rear pocket was flaking, and a patch pulled off - so I'll need to check that side compartment as well and possible treat it with POR15 or something similar - does anyone know if that product can be obtained locally, or must I web order it do you think?
On the bright side, I have the entire interior cleaned out and ready for carpet, I re-wired the stereo with wires for rear speakers (which I don't have yet, but plan to add shortly), installed new leather shifter and e-brake boots and completely finished the door cards, rear cards and all of the seating. I just need to install the carpet (I'll not glue it down yet, as I know I'll need to pull it out for the welding) and replace the seats and I'm good to go. The black door cards with the brushed aluminum door furniture I bought look GREAT.
Photos will be coming shortly.
If you are planning on welding anytime in the near future you would be better off waiting to apply the POR-15 until after the welding is over. The POR-15 is almost impossible to remove after it has been applied.
POR
I just ordered from POR's site. Delivered via UPS in 4 working days standard UPS ground NJ to FL....I've ordered from them several times....they ship fast.
I see guys show up at car shows selling it, but have never seen it on a shelf of a parts store - not even the auto paint supply house I use...as far as I can tell they (POR) don't partner with any national chains. They seem to use local distributors, so a local store might have it in the shelf that way...but what I'm saying is don't sweat the web order. IME they are 100% OK to order from.
If applied correctly the only way I've gotten it off is grinding..alto they say their POR-STRIP which I've never tried, works...if applied incorrectly it peels off in sheets......been there....
Also note they sell their own recommended solvent/thinner. IME it works better that regular spirits for cleaning up POR - it is Naptha based..... This including getting it off your skin - gloves are strongly recommended....once dry this does not come off til the skin does. I use disposable brushes....this stuff dries to an amazingly smooth finish from a brush. It also seems like a really GREAT way to destroy a spray gun. If you run it thru a gun you better use A LOT of their solvent to clean it.
The surface treatment 'metal ready' is actually a good prep step for welding .....helps get rid of/convert rust allowing a cleaner arc....when working a patch area of old pitted metal it can help reduce rust induced splatter with less grinding and associated loss of thickness.
I see guys show up at car shows selling it, but have never seen it on a shelf of a parts store - not even the auto paint supply house I use...as far as I can tell they (POR) don't partner with any national chains. They seem to use local distributors, so a local store might have it in the shelf that way...but what I'm saying is don't sweat the web order. IME they are 100% OK to order from.
If applied correctly the only way I've gotten it off is grinding..alto they say their POR-STRIP which I've never tried, works...if applied incorrectly it peels off in sheets......been there....
Also note they sell their own recommended solvent/thinner. IME it works better that regular spirits for cleaning up POR - it is Naptha based..... This including getting it off your skin - gloves are strongly recommended....once dry this does not come off til the skin does. I use disposable brushes....this stuff dries to an amazingly smooth finish from a brush. It also seems like a really GREAT way to destroy a spray gun. If you run it thru a gun you better use A LOT of their solvent to clean it.
The surface treatment 'metal ready' is actually a good prep step for welding .....helps get rid of/convert rust allowing a cleaner arc....when working a patch area of old pitted metal it can help reduce rust induced splatter with less grinding and associated loss of thickness.
Last edited by Capt_bj; Jan 28, 2008 at 02:42 PM.
I believe that my local NAPA store is carrying it because of a personal decision by one of the owners, not because it is a product that NAPA sells in all of its stores.
+1 or maybe even +10. Been there and done that. Gloves, long sleeve shirt and wear nothing that you care about or want to keep if it gets dirty.
+1 or maybe even +10. Been there and done that. Gloves, long sleeve shirt and wear nothing that you care about or want to keep if it gets dirty.
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F55/F56 :: Hatch Talk (2014+)
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What year is the car again?

