Hi,
I am new here.
I have a 1962 Mini Cooper (a real Cooper) with a transplanted 1275 w/ 2 SUs and all sync tranny, cooper S brakes, dry suspension, 10x6 GBs w/A008s...
I come to you all for advice.
The car is rust free, and accident free, but the paint is a wreck and needs to be stripped to bare metal and surfaced out/repainted ($3500 estimate from friends body shop). The car needs seats and new interior and lots of engine bay detailing. Car has not run in 10 years so it needs hydraulic work. Rear subframe was jacked on and needs to be replaced - I have a new subframe and bushings but I have not installed yet. Needs valves adjusted but motor is great otherwise.
I love this car, it is a blast to drive and to look at - I have owned it for 20 years but I need to sell it . Should I sell it as is? Or is it worth restoring and selling when it is done?

 

This is the car 10 years ago - window glass is out at the moment and bumpers are off.
That was my isetta in the background too - gone now but I do have a red one ('57).

 

Welcome aboard. Personally I would sell it as is. You can fix it up, but usually you spend more than you make. Plus, you have no idea what direction the new owner would be wanting to take it (stock restoration, modified, complete custom, what colors, etc.) How much are you looking to get? Any newer pics? Good luck either way. You could always take the slot that big norm is advertising as the last one for 2008. Hes a member that does restorations for sale.

 

Sell it as is. You will not recoup what you put into it if you try to restore it. The car has nice improvements but is not original. Since it needs restored this won't severely impact its price. Some may want it with 1275, others may want it back to original (997cc).

If it were mine, I would do the brakes (relatively inexpensive fix), replace the subframe (you already have one) and get it running so a potential buyer can hear it and drive it down the street. That alone will double its value. Mark 1 Coopers and Cooper S' are getting very scarce. Paint and interior are not big concerns if the body shell is solid.

 

Minimad,
I see your logic. Getting it running/braking is priority.

 

Bahkack, if you already have the rear subframe, you can swap it yourself if you are at all handy with tools. I took my time and swapped mine, and I've never really done much more than oil, spark plug and hose changes on a car before.

 

Argo
What year Classic do you have?
Yes, I will do the subframe.
I have decided to go ahead and get it painted. I am going to take the plunge and see how much I can do with it before I sell it.

 

Interested in selling the Isetta? Or can you give me some hints on where to find one?

If so, PM me pls......

 

Maximize your return for your effort, find out what the original spec was by getting a Heritage Certificate and restore to original color & trim...The UK may be a place to sell it given the scarcity of Mk1 Coopers and the favorable (for them) exchange rate.

 

Mine is a 91 vinned & titled as a 78. I had some fun removing some of the bolts, and some of them the heads twisted straight off, but it really isn't that hard.

 

Minimad, the car was originally white with black roof. At some point things switched and now it is all black.
Engine bay and interior/trunk everything is black now - so if I go back to white it will be a ton of work. It may pay off though - white hides many sins - black shows every glitch/wiggle in a highlight...

other info... I have an original right hand fuel tank that I picked up in Scotland a few years back - not installed yet but I may do it in spite of the fact that it was not original to '62 - I already put the hole in the fender... There is some evidence that my car was one of the first batch of Coopers sold in USA - not sure if that is important. I should get rid of S badges but I won't .

Argo, 3 of the 4 really tough forward mounting bolts have been replaced already so those should come out ok - it is that fourth one that's got me nervous...

 

Most of them are pass through bolts with nuts on them, so if you twist the head off, you can just knock them out with hammer and a punch.

 

The front rear subframe bolts pass into the rear bins where there are nuts welded in place to the body. The bolts are fine thread and usually rusted. Sometimes they break off and need replaced. Not an easy place to work in....

 

Oh yeah, I did have a problem with one of those. Careful work with a butane torch and a pair of vice-grips can get you out of trouble there.

 

sell as is, fix to keep.
Restore to sell, you'll be making the future owner an act philantropy.

 

No truer words of wisdom.....