I put the steering column extender into my car last night ('92 Mini Sprite)... Cutting off the rounded shear bolt was a PITA.

Anyway, after I ground the old bolt off I went to install the extender. Multiple How-to's say to loosen the U-bolt nuts on the floor next to the column so that it can move. Most say that you will need to support the wheel to keep it from dropping into your lap once the old bolt is removed, and even go so far as to suggest having an assistant to hold the wheel upright while you tighten the new bracket.

Problem is, even after I loosened the 2 nuts on the inboard side of the RHD steering column, the wheel did not feel loose. There was enough play in the column to get the bracket inside the dash mounting points at its highest setting, but it felt more like "flex" in the metal to me more than the sensation of the entire column pivoting down.

Everything's restored and tight now, but I'm almost scared to drive the car until I know its safe. I was led to believe that there would be *4* nuts to loosen, a pair on either side of the column, but there's nothing but smooth metal on the outboard side. If I'm flexing the column, I don't want that to adversely affect my steering or, worse, damage the components (or myself in a crash).

Any ideas? Is my installation experience normal?

 

I'm no expert but I guess if it didn't feel like it was loose, then chances are it wasn't.

Ask over on the Mini Mania forum - theres like 1000 years of combined experience with those guys.

 

Ah... I see what I did. Someone on a UK forum said that there are TWO sets of U-bolts, one next to the steering column and a SECOND set on the passenger side (a mirror of the ones near the wheel). The How-tos were not clear that the second set were in the other foot well - I expected them to bracket the column...

Oh well - at least that's easy to sort out!

 

Yes, loosen those 4 nuts and you will be fine, 2 in each foot well and the whole steering rack under the floor can then pivot inside the U bolts which clamp it up tight to the floor. If you pull the steering column down too far without loosening these nuts and then clamp up the extender as some people do it can damage the rack or worse cause it to fail later! Yours should be fine if you only squeezed in the bracket and didn't drive it much while flexed.

 

I didn't drive it at all until I got it sorted out... It dropped right down when I loosened the other set of bolts.

Thanks!

 

I've had the drop bracket for almost as long as I've had the car and haven't gotten around to doing this mod. Question for you: Did you end up cutting the bolt completely or did you just cut a slot in the head to use a straight blade screwdriver? If you cut it completely, what are you currently using, did you get another shear bolt?

 

I'd replace it with a regular bolt of the same size and thread pitch. That's what I'm going to do when we finally get our newest Mini and I take the damn steering column drop *out* of it. When you're a big monkey like I am you need all the space you can get! It'll go into the tool box next to the other drop I took out of the 1st car. :D

 

That's what I was thinking also, but I do think there is some merit to having a shear bolt, but with the size and strength of the metal on this car I don't give it too much merit

I'm thinking I'll give the drop a go, it'll be nice to see the alt and oil warning lights for a change!

 

Isn't a shear bolt supposed to (unsuccessfully) prevent tampering? I mean, if 'ya can just cut a notch in it and unscrew it... it's not very tamper-proof.

 

I don't know?? I was working under the assumption that it was meant to "shear" at a specific force load, to possibly allow the steering wheel to collapse. Now a shear pin in the ignition system would be different, wouldn’t it?

 

I cut a notch in it, but it was so soft that it just bent when I tried to turn it. I then cut two flat spots in the "nut" part with my Dremel and tried using a monkey wrench - not enough room, but I bet I could have worked it off if I'd had the patience. As it was, it was frustrating me, so I cut through the entire bolt and the rounded-off nut with a Dremel cutting wheel. I replaced it with a proper bolt and lock washers.

 

The shear bolts were introduced at the same time as the ignition key/steering lock on the steering column in the early 1970s and were just to make it more difficult for a car thief to unbolt the locked column. It is difficult to turn the cone shaped nut as it should lock into a cut-out with flats in the original parcel shelf bracket.

There is also a special column drop bracket availiable to fit later Minis with an airbag:-
Air Bag Mini column drop

 

Ahh ok thanks!

 

I've got a question about this. Why would there be a bolt for the steering column on the passenger side of the car??

 

I think the passenger side bolts (along with the driver's side, too) actually hold the steering rack in place. Both sides need to be loosened for the steering column to rotate/drop downwards. Don't forget to retighten both sides!

 

Yeah, or do they mean driver/passenger side as left and right side of the steering column...

 

The "passenger side" bolts are actually for the steering rack. The steering rack attaches to the bottom of the firewall with two u-bolts; one on the driver's side and one on the passenger side.

 

Make sure the rack has rotated and the column is perpendicular to it. Otherwise, you will ruin the spline on the rack input shaft. Worse, it may happen while your driving! YIKES!

 

If you don't loosen both, you'll really feel the difference - you can feel the steering shaft bending. Best way is to loosen the passenger side first, then do the driver's, ideally with someone assisting. Don't worry , it's not technically challenging - even my wife could do it.

You'll feel the wheel drop into your lap when it's loose, Adjust to the proper height, then hold the wheel while the assistant tightens first the bracket nuts, then the passenger-side rack bolts. When you get out, between those two points it should not move while you tighten the driver's side rack bolts.