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1968 Mini S

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Old Jul 26, 2007 | 05:18 AM
  #1  
Newdl's Avatar
Newdl
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From: Akron, Ohio
1968 Mini S

I was approached with the oportunity to purchase an origional 1968 S. I just recieved the call yesterday and have yet to find the time in my schedule to go see the car...but I have been told it is driver level with some slight rust at the bottom edge of the doors and by the front bumper...

I am looking for a classic to drive for a few years and then make into a classic clone of the 1964 Monte Carlo Winner.....I may not go as far as https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ighlight=33ejb

but atleast the 37's and 33ejb and some fogs...I have a Monte Carlo so it would be really cool to have both...

the price offered was $11.5 I will post pics when I get them....

Any suggestions?
 
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Old Jul 26, 2007 | 06:55 AM
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Suggestions about what? What too look for when viewing or test driving the car? On what to offer? I assume not on what to do to the car since you're interested in making a racer replica...

What are you needing?
 
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Old Jul 26, 2007 | 08:37 AM
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Matt, I'm going to guess it's $11,500 for the MINI. But I may be wrong. May be it's going for $11.50. At that price I'll take two myself. Ha ha ha

The rust at the bottom of the doors means you will need to at least reskin the doors. Filler is not wise on a MINI. As for the rusty bumper, I can not determine how much rust damage is to the front panel without some pictures.

Cheers,

Ash
 
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Old Jul 26, 2007 | 04:28 PM
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i just finished re-skining a door today......prob takes about 6 to 8 hrs for a novice ,if thats all you have to do......make sure you look at the underside of the doors as well (where the door meets the door sill)
 
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Old Jul 27, 2007 | 04:14 AM
  #5  
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reskinned doors ran me 100 quid ($200) per door.

Big Norm, how did the reskin turn out? I tried to reskin one myself and it's extremely hard without the proper tools.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2007 | 04:21 AM
  #6  
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came out great........i'll snap some photo when i get a chance.........the trick is to not rush, and to slowly hammer the lip around the door.........the door i did was a mark 1 .......i placed bolts into the door hinge holes to help keep it all in place.........i have one more to do .....woo hoo
 
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Old Jul 29, 2007 | 02:37 PM
  #7  
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sorry pic is small ....used my cell phone

 
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Old Jul 29, 2007 | 02:53 PM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by Newdl
I was approached with the oportunity to purchase an origional 1968 S. I just recieved the call yesterday and have yet to find the time in my schedule to go see the car...but I have been told it is driver level with some slight rust at the bottom edge of the doors and by the front bumper...

I am looking for a classic to drive for a few years and then make into a classic clone of the 1964 Monte Carlo Winner.....I may not go as far as https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ighlight=33ejb

but atleast the 37's and 33ejb and some fogs...I have a Monte Carlo so it would be really cool to have both...

the price offered was $11.5 I will post pics when I get them....

Any suggestions?
$11,500 sounds to cheap for a real Cooper S
 
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Old Jul 30, 2007 | 11:25 PM
  #9  
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From: O'ahu, Hawai'i
...and 33EJB was a MK1, not a MK2.

I'll be the first to admit that I wanted a "slidey window" (2 piece) Mini from the time I loved Minis. Then I got one. Here in Hawaii they just don't let in enough air to make driving fun. Sliding windows suck in hot climates!

For a genuine MK2 Cooper S (only 3 year production I think. I'd have to dig out the book to check and I'm too lazy at the moment). They're pretty rare, so I'd have to agree with mozzarella - $11,500 sounds really low. Then again, if it's not in concurse condition that could be a totally acceptable price. When you do go, take lots of photos. Jot down the "Vin" number as well as the body tag and things like that. If there is an engine ID tag on the front right of the block (as you face the engine bay), write that down as well. Photos of the rust areas as well as the seams under the headlights, windshield scuttle panel, "A" panels (the ones in front of the door), side sills, doors, rear (near where the seams all come together at the bottom by the bumper), battery box (it sticks out under the car from the boot area), the boot itself, uhm... dash, gear lever. I think that's about it. Folks should be able to tell you from that if it's genuine or not.
 
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Old Jul 31, 2007 | 01:09 PM
  #10  
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it is a mk1 i was wrong in this thread title...it is a 1966 cooper s but it has the incorrect engine (1275) and bad documentation...i will go look at it to see if i can justify...but I want a numbers matching.....guess the search continues...

thanks!
 
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Old Jul 31, 2007 | 01:34 PM
  #11  
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Yikes... for a "matching numbers" MK1 Cooper S you're going to spend a bundle. I'd double what you were expecting - I don't know if you could find a verifiable matching numbers MK1 Cooper S for under $20K. If you do, please don't do anything to it! Turning it into a 33EJB clone would be a shame if it's truly a matching numbers car.

A 1966 Cooper S would have a 1275cc engine. What did you think it should have? Earlier "S" cars could have a 970 or 1071cc engine, but '66 would have the 1275 variant.
 
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