1968 Mini S
1968 Mini S
I was approached with the oportunity to purchase an origional 1968 S. I just recieved the call yesterday and have yet to find the time in my schedule to go see the car...but I have been told it is driver level with some slight rust at the bottom edge of the doors and by the front bumper...
I am looking for a classic to drive for a few years and then make into a classic clone of the 1964 Monte Carlo Winner.....I may not go as far as https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ighlight=33ejb
but atleast the 37's and 33ejb and some fogs...I have a Monte Carlo so it would be really cool to have both...
the price offered was $11.5 I will post pics when I get them....
Any suggestions?
I am looking for a classic to drive for a few years and then make into a classic clone of the 1964 Monte Carlo Winner.....I may not go as far as https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ighlight=33ejb
but atleast the 37's and 33ejb and some fogs...I have a Monte Carlo so it would be really cool to have both...
the price offered was $11.5 I will post pics when I get them....
Any suggestions?
Matt, I'm going to guess it's $11,500 for the MINI. But I may be wrong. May be it's going for $11.50. At that price I'll take two myself. Ha ha ha
The rust at the bottom of the doors means you will need to at least reskin the doors. Filler is not wise on a MINI. As for the rusty bumper, I can not determine how much rust damage is to the front panel without some pictures.
Cheers,
Ash
The rust at the bottom of the doors means you will need to at least reskin the doors. Filler is not wise on a MINI. As for the rusty bumper, I can not determine how much rust damage is to the front panel without some pictures.
Cheers,
Ash
i just finished re-skining a door today......prob takes about 6 to 8 hrs for a novice ,if thats all you have to do......make sure you look at the underside of the doors as well (where the door meets the door sill)
came out great........i'll snap some photo when i get a chance.........the trick is to not rush, and to slowly hammer the lip around the door.........the door i did was a mark 1 .......i placed bolts into the door hinge holes to help keep it all in place.........i have one more to do .....woo hoo
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I was approached with the oportunity to purchase an origional 1968 S. I just recieved the call yesterday and have yet to find the time in my schedule to go see the car...but I have been told it is driver level with some slight rust at the bottom edge of the doors and by the front bumper...
I am looking for a classic to drive for a few years and then make into a classic clone of the 1964 Monte Carlo Winner.....I may not go as far as https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ighlight=33ejb
but atleast the 37's and 33ejb and some fogs...I have a Monte Carlo so it would be really cool to have both...
the price offered was $11.5 I will post pics when I get them....
Any suggestions?
I am looking for a classic to drive for a few years and then make into a classic clone of the 1964 Monte Carlo Winner.....I may not go as far as https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ighlight=33ejb
but atleast the 37's and 33ejb and some fogs...I have a Monte Carlo so it would be really cool to have both...
the price offered was $11.5 I will post pics when I get them....
Any suggestions?
...and 33EJB was a MK1, not a MK2. 
I'll be the first to admit that I wanted a "slidey window" (2 piece) Mini from the time I loved Minis. Then I got one. Here in Hawaii they just don't let in enough air to make driving fun. Sliding windows suck in hot climates!
For a genuine MK2 Cooper S (only 3 year production I think. I'd have to dig out the book to check and I'm too lazy at the moment). They're pretty rare, so I'd have to agree with mozzarella - $11,500 sounds really low. Then again, if it's not in concurse condition that could be a totally acceptable price. When you do go, take lots of photos. Jot down the "Vin" number as well as the body tag and things like that. If there is an engine ID tag on the front right of the block (as you face the engine bay), write that down as well. Photos of the rust areas as well as the seams under the headlights, windshield scuttle panel, "A" panels (the ones in front of the door), side sills, doors, rear (near where the seams all come together at the bottom by the bumper), battery box (it sticks out under the car from the boot area), the boot itself, uhm... dash, gear lever. I think that's about it. Folks should be able to tell you from that if it's genuine or not.

I'll be the first to admit that I wanted a "slidey window" (2 piece) Mini from the time I loved Minis. Then I got one. Here in Hawaii they just don't let in enough air to make driving fun. Sliding windows suck in hot climates!
For a genuine MK2 Cooper S (only 3 year production I think. I'd have to dig out the book to check and I'm too lazy at the moment). They're pretty rare, so I'd have to agree with mozzarella - $11,500 sounds really low. Then again, if it's not in concurse condition that could be a totally acceptable price. When you do go, take lots of photos. Jot down the "Vin" number as well as the body tag and things like that. If there is an engine ID tag on the front right of the block (as you face the engine bay), write that down as well. Photos of the rust areas as well as the seams under the headlights, windshield scuttle panel, "A" panels (the ones in front of the door), side sills, doors, rear (near where the seams all come together at the bottom by the bumper), battery box (it sticks out under the car from the boot area), the boot itself, uhm... dash, gear lever. I think that's about it. Folks should be able to tell you from that if it's genuine or not.
it is a mk1 i was wrong in this thread title...it is a 1966 cooper s but it has the incorrect engine (1275) and bad documentation...i will go look at it to see if i can justify...but I want a numbers matching.....guess the search continues...
thanks!
thanks!
Yikes... for a "matching numbers" MK1 Cooper S you're going to spend a bundle. I'd double what you were expecting - I don't know if you could find a verifiable matching numbers MK1 Cooper S for under $20K. If you do, please don't do anything to it! Turning it into a 33EJB clone would be a shame if it's truly a matching numbers car.
A 1966 Cooper S would have a 1275cc engine. What did you think it should have? Earlier "S" cars could have a 970 or 1071cc engine, but '66 would have the 1275 variant.
A 1966 Cooper S would have a 1275cc engine. What did you think it should have? Earlier "S" cars could have a 970 or 1071cc engine, but '66 would have the 1275 variant.
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