Carbs are so confusing... How to tell what's installed? =(
I was afflicted with a fine '77 TR7 with a long and glorious list of ongoing disorders, including the ever-present and never-effective Stromberg carb... But I got good and randomly turning the screws to see what would happen - kinda like attempting to solve a Rubic's Cube with no method or logic, just blind luck... and the approach was strangely, if only temporarily, effective at transforming the Shape of Things to Come into something between inanimate wedge and unreliable transportation. Luckily, I was a bicyclist back then...

Chuck... I hooked up with your "old fart" mechanic buddy last night and he suggested I talk to David Anton at APT Performance... apparantly he's THE go-to guy for carbs and will be able to ID my unit with no issues, as well as advise me whether or not I'll need to put in a different needle as a result of the air filter swap. Eric thought I had a HIF44 (1.75") carb in the car, but the ID plate was worn smooth so he wasn't 100% sure... Gah!!
Wow.. I love it when you talk to someone that really knows their stuff...
I spoke to David Anton at APT (1-800-APT-FAST or www.aptfast.com if anyone needs the same kind of help) and he really dialed me into exactly what I need.
In my case, he was able to ID the carb sight-unseen (it is a 1.75" HIF44 carb) and he was able to recommend a better filter than the cone filter I was considering - for my car, he advised using a K&N oval filter (SD27-332) fitted with a MSS44 stub stack:

As for the needle, he was pretty sure that it could be adjusted to run properly (he can tell more when I give him the ID number on the side of the needle), however the best way to tune would be to dyno it. Since I have no idea how to properly dyno tune a carbed motor, I guess I can have Eric tune it by ear and then watch the plug deposits for evidence of excessive leanness/richness.
You guys certainly weren't lying when you said that owning an old Mini would be a leaning experience... Luckily I love learning new things. If I have one regret, it's that I didn't take auto shop in high school now...
I spoke to David Anton at APT (1-800-APT-FAST or www.aptfast.com if anyone needs the same kind of help) and he really dialed me into exactly what I need.
In my case, he was able to ID the carb sight-unseen (it is a 1.75" HIF44 carb) and he was able to recommend a better filter than the cone filter I was considering - for my car, he advised using a K&N oval filter (SD27-332) fitted with a MSS44 stub stack:

As for the needle, he was pretty sure that it could be adjusted to run properly (he can tell more when I give him the ID number on the side of the needle), however the best way to tune would be to dyno it. Since I have no idea how to properly dyno tune a carbed motor, I guess I can have Eric tune it by ear and then watch the plug deposits for evidence of excessive leanness/richness.
You guys certainly weren't lying when you said that owning an old Mini would be a leaning experience... Luckily I love learning new things. If I have one regret, it's that I didn't take auto shop in high school now...
You should get better flow with that oval filter. Tuning your carb shouldn't be that big of a deal. At least your Mini only has one so no need to sync them.
You are taking autoshop.
It's the internet correspondence course.
You are taking autoshop.
It's the internet correspondence course.
Rebuilding an SU carb is amazingly simple. I'd never worked on a carb before, and successfuly rebuilt mine in about an hour (not counting the time soaking in petrol and cleaning with a toothbrush).
The unit only has about 6 moving parts. I paid about $45 for a rebuild kit from 7 Enterprises.
The unit only has about 6 moving parts. I paid about $45 for a rebuild kit from 7 Enterprises.
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