Question to anyone who's actually done a CAS module replacement in an R60 Countryman. Is it really necessary to pull the air bags, center speedo & radio, glovebox, lower fasteners etc.? I'm a bit concerned about getting the dash back in after reading this R60 dash removal post here. I do have a Mitchell subscription, so looking there as well. Just hard to search there in my experience

My son's CAS3 module is finally dying on his 2011 Countryman S All4 (A0A9 CAS Control-unit fault, won't clear, numerous others including all 3 terminal 15 faults). Have already found a replacement module and cloning service since I don't have the programming tools to do it myself.

Turns out the dash removal process on the R60 is different than the R56 etc DIYs you see all over YouTube
- the defroster vent trim is completely different
- you can't remove the decorative dash trim

I did finally manage to find a great R60 dash removal blog post with lots of pics, and a YouTube video that was also helpful
Thanks

 

Did you find any answers to the questions you posted?

 

the video I found and posted helped. It was absolute hell replacing the module

 

Yeah, I got it out yesterday, already dreading putting it all back together. The clearance between the dash and the CAS module seems like it will be the biggest problem (like in the thread you linked)

 

Who did the cloning service? Did it work when you got it back together?

Peter

 

ECU Pro in PA. Just got it back yesterday, and haven't put it all back together yet.

 

Just putting the following info out there for anyone else.
The hardest part is getting the dashboard back in. As far as I could tell, there are three clips/tabs in the front of the dashboard that need to line up with the 3 clips/tabs under the windshield, and two L shaped plastic pieces that you can see above the central air vents that go into pretty obvious receivers for them (dont have to worry too much about those). I did not have much trouble lining up the passenger and middle tabs. The problem was on the driver's side. You will notice that you want to pull the dash towards the rear of the car to get the tabs to be able to seat, but when you pull it back, it hits the CAS.
To solve this, I slightly lifted the dashboard onto the CAS module and the top of the receiving metal piece for the L plastic guides. Then I took two PUMP WEDGES and put them on both sides of the drivers clip/tab between the dash and the windshield. When they were inflated, I pushed the dashboard forward, and it fell into place. The pump wedges worked within 10 minutes, after I tried for 30 minutes without them. It is also helpful to have a helper to make sure your tabs are at the right height. Otherwise you will be getting in and out of the car a lot to line things up, because you can only see the tabs from the windshield.

TLDR: I would highly recommend pump wedges to get the dash back in place.