R60 The stumble is back, really bad
So they decided to replace the turbo wastegate before they gave it back. They didn't give me a good reason why I needed a new wastegate, but whatever. I've been driving it for a few days and so far the hesitation/stumble/braking problem hasn't come back, so maybe the worn out wire in the stability/traction control system was the source of the problem.
... But today, I was driving to work and the engine completely stalled. I got a yellow engine malfunction light and it wouldn't start. I had to have it towed back to the dealer.
That's the first time it ever stalled since I bought it three years ago. Have to say I'm pretty tired of this. At least I'm still under warranty (for another month), but what's next? It's like a time bomb went off in my car.
Rmachuca, I wouldn't wait any longer to take yours in.
... But today, I was driving to work and the engine completely stalled. I got a yellow engine malfunction light and it wouldn't start. I had to have it towed back to the dealer.
That's the first time it ever stalled since I bought it three years ago. Have to say I'm pretty tired of this. At least I'm still under warranty (for another month), but what's next? It's like a time bomb went off in my car.
Rmachuca, I wouldn't wait any longer to take yours in.
So they decided to replace the turbo wastegate before they gave it back. They didn't give me a good reason why I needed a new wastegate, but whatever. I've been driving it for a few days and so far the hesitation/stumble/braking problem hasn't come back, so maybe the worn out wire in the stability/traction control system was the source of the problem.
... But today, I was driving to work and the engine completely stalled. I got a yellow engine malfunction light and it wouldn't start. I had to have it towed back to the dealer.
That's the first time it ever stalled since I bought it three years ago. Have to say I'm pretty tired of this. At least I'm still under warranty (for another month), but what's next? It's like a time bomb went off in my car.
Rmachuca, I wouldn't wait any longer to take yours in.
... But today, I was driving to work and the engine completely stalled. I got a yellow engine malfunction light and it wouldn't start. I had to have it towed back to the dealer.
That's the first time it ever stalled since I bought it three years ago. Have to say I'm pretty tired of this. At least I'm still under warranty (for another month), but what's next? It's like a time bomb went off in my car.
Rmachuca, I wouldn't wait any longer to take yours in.
I will be taking mine in on Monday and wont be picking it up until they do more than run a diagnostic and tell me rubbish about octane levels. Right now I have to be pressing the gas like I'm walking on eggs... any sudden press and I get a stumble. Today makes it exactly 6 months since I picked up the car from the dealers.
So they decided to replace the turbo wastegate before they gave it back. They didn't give me a good reason why I needed a new wastegate, but whatever. I've been driving it for a few days and so far the hesitation/stumble/braking problem hasn't come back, so maybe the worn out wire in the stability/traction control system was the source of the problem.
... But today, I was driving to work and the engine completely stalled. I got a yellow engine malfunction light and it wouldn't start. I had to have it towed back to the dealer.
That's the first time it ever stalled since I bought it three years ago. Have to say I'm pretty tired of this. At least I'm still under warranty (for another month), but what's next? It's like a time bomb went off in my car.
Rmachuca, I wouldn't wait any longer to take yours in.
... But today, I was driving to work and the engine completely stalled. I got a yellow engine malfunction light and it wouldn't start. I had to have it towed back to the dealer.
That's the first time it ever stalled since I bought it three years ago. Have to say I'm pretty tired of this. At least I'm still under warranty (for another month), but what's next? It's like a time bomb went off in my car.
Rmachuca, I wouldn't wait any longer to take yours in.
I took my Countryman in this morning. A technician took it for a drive with me in there and he experienced a really bad stumble.
Got a call this afternoon saying that they are not able to identify the problem so they are going to have to keep it overnight. I will update accordingly.
Got a call this afternoon saying that they are not able to identify the problem so they are going to have to keep it overnight. I will update accordingly.
If you check some of my recent posts I have been having issues with this odd knocking/rattling sound. Then last week on my way to the dealership for said sound as I'm leaving my hood I get the extreme stumble that almost gets me rear ended. That was last Monday. No word yet. We are now in April and so far I have had my car in my possession a total of a month and a week for 2015. I have 3500 miles of warranty left. I'm in love with the look of the car but this is getting really old.
Got the mini back, had them do a full inspection, they found nothing wrong and changed 3 bulbs, for the pleasure i was billed 350$, not very happy about it as i was quoted 150$ for the inspection, but since i asked to check the timing chain and radiator fan (when it kicks in high its like a truck, with the shakes and all) they billed me separate for that, apparently thats not in the full inspection.
Got the mini back, had them do a full inspection, they found nothing wrong and changed 3 bulbs, for the pleasure i was billed 350$, not very happy about it as i was quoted 150$ for the inspection, but since i asked to check the timing chain and radiator fan (when it kicks in high its like a truck, with the shakes and all) they billed me separate for that, apparently thats not in the full inspection.
EDIT: I forgot, isn't your car still under warranty? If so, they shouldn't be charging you a thing, it's their problem to fix (and bill it back to BMW, so it's not like they'll lose money on you).
Allready found an independent shop, done with the dealer. As far as the stumble goes, i filled up @ esso last time since i wasnt in range of a shell station, i've been using vpower since a lot of people swear by it. Anyways, since i filled up at esso i havent gotten the stumble and im almost through a full tank. I've noticed before, when i'd get the stumble, that there was micro stumbling going up from low revs at wot before the turbo kicks in (practically un-noticeable), and i havent gotten that with the esso, so i'm going to try and switch gas suppliers and see if that helps.
Okay, I've had it back since the weekend, and apparently, I was out of gas ... but I didn't know it because my gauge read 100% full.
The fuel level is read from inside the low pressure fuel pump in the gas tank, so they replaced the pump and all is well now ... with less than a month to go under warranty.
So if you're over 30,000 miles and you get a hesitation like this out of nowhere with no codes, make them check for a loose wiring harness above the diff (pretty sure they meant the center diff).
On the upside, here's my new parts list. If this happened in June I would have been SOL
The fuel level is read from inside the low pressure fuel pump in the gas tank, so they replaced the pump and all is well now ... with less than a month to go under warranty.
So if you're over 30,000 miles and you get a hesitation like this out of nowhere with no codes, make them check for a loose wiring harness above the diff (pretty sure they meant the center diff).
On the upside, here's my new parts list. If this happened in June I would have been SOL

- ECU update
- coolant temp sensor
- knock sensor
- plugs
- coils
- turbo wastegate
- high pressure fuel pump
- low pressure fuel pump
So after 8 days I got my car back on Tuesday. The story is that they still think I am having "super knock". They apparently spent most of the time trying to re-install the car's OS.
So far I have only gotten two slight stumbles and both happened today. It doesn't sound like the usual clicking sound, but more like a crackle. There wasn't any dramatic power loss either, only slight. I will report it to the dealer in the morning.
So far I have only gotten two slight stumbles and both happened today. It doesn't sound like the usual clicking sound, but more like a crackle. There wasn't any dramatic power loss either, only slight. I will report it to the dealer in the morning.
So after 8 days I got my car back on Tuesday. The story is that they still think I am having "super knock". They apparently spent most of the time trying to re-install the car's OS.
So far I have only gotten two slight stumbles and both happened today. It doesn't sound like the usual clicking sound, but more like a crackle. There wasn't any dramatic power loss either, only slight. I will report it to the dealer in the morning.
So far I have only gotten two slight stumbles and both happened today. It doesn't sound like the usual clicking sound, but more like a crackle. There wasn't any dramatic power loss either, only slight. I will report it to the dealer in the morning.
I asked if super knock was different from regular engine knock and he (service manager) said its the same thing which was why I put it in quotes. He kept using the term throughout his explanation.
Can you elaborate on what/were this connector is so I can inspect mine?
The SA said a wire in the TC/SC system above the diff (I'm pretty sure he said center diff, but maybe it was rear diff) wasn't secured correctly and came away from the main harness. The insulation rubbed off over time and the wire would occasionally contact metal. They think this simulated a traction loss, causing the brakes to engage.
They repaired the insulation and secured it to the main harness (zipties instead of clips) and installed a plastic shield above it.
Wish I could be more specific but it's not on my paperwork and this is all I know ...
The SA said a wire in the TC/SC system above the diff (I'm pretty sure he said center diff, but maybe it was rear diff) wasn't secured correctly and came away from the main harness. The insulation rubbed off over time and the wire would occasionally contact metal. They think this simulated a traction loss, causing the brakes to engage.
They repaired the insulation and secured it to the main harness (zipties instead of clips) and installed a plastic shield above it.
The SA said a wire in the TC/SC system above the diff (I'm pretty sure he said center diff, but maybe it was rear diff) wasn't secured correctly and came away from the main harness. The insulation rubbed off over time and the wire would occasionally contact metal. They think this simulated a traction loss, causing the brakes to engage.
They repaired the insulation and secured it to the main harness (zipties instead of clips) and installed a plastic shield above it.
I asked for a report for what was done to my car when they had it for 8 days.
This is the report:
"Engine Clicking Sound: The vehicle read a fault for super knocking in Cylinder 1, 2, 3 and 4 injection cut-off. This is caused by poor fuel grade. BMW additive was pored in at the last visit. There was updated software available and the vehicle was programmed."
I dont know, but this tells me that other than the software upgrade they did nothing else to the car.
This is the report:
"Engine Clicking Sound: The vehicle read a fault for super knocking in Cylinder 1, 2, 3 and 4 injection cut-off. This is caused by poor fuel grade. BMW additive was pored in at the last visit. There was updated software available and the vehicle was programmed."
I dont know, but this tells me that other than the software upgrade they did nothing else to the car.
I asked for a report for what was done to my car when they had it for 8 days.
This is the report:
"Engine Clicking Sound: The vehicle read a fault for super knocking in Cylinder 1, 2, 3 and 4 injection cut-off. This is caused by poor fuel grade. BMW additive was pored in at the last visit. There was updated software available and the vehicle was programmed."
I dont know, but this tells me that other than the software upgrade they did nothing else to the car.
This is the report:
"Engine Clicking Sound: The vehicle read a fault for super knocking in Cylinder 1, 2, 3 and 4 injection cut-off. This is caused by poor fuel grade. BMW additive was pored in at the last visit. There was updated software available and the vehicle was programmed."
I dont know, but this tells me that other than the software upgrade they did nothing else to the car.
They said they drove the car for over 260km and have not had a single occurrence of engine knock. I find this unbelievable as some of the driving was done before the new thermostat was installed.
Being that I bought a brand new car I am deathly afraid to take it back. I have owned the car for 6 months and it has visited the dealers 5 times now with an overall stay time of 1.5 months. I am very disappointed with my purchase and have lost faith in the brand.
I am considering trading it in for another vehicle of a different make (dealers own other dealerships).
They are urging me to take the car back as they strongly believe the issue as been resolved.
thoughts?
Met with the dealers today. They have had my car for more than 3 weeks. they installed a new issue thermostat which should allow the car to handle cooling much better in our tropical climate.
They said they drove the car for over 260km and have not had a single occurrence of engine knock. I find this unbelievable as some of the driving was done before the new thermostat was installed.
Being that I bought a brand new car I am deathly afraid to take it back. I have owned the car for 6 months and it has visited the dealers 5 times now with an overall stay time of 1.5 months. I am very disappointed with my purchase and have lost faith in the brand.
I am considering trading it in for another vehicle of a different make (dealers own other dealerships).
They are urging me to take the car back as they strongly believe the issue as been resolved.
thoughts?
They said they drove the car for over 260km and have not had a single occurrence of engine knock. I find this unbelievable as some of the driving was done before the new thermostat was installed.
Being that I bought a brand new car I am deathly afraid to take it back. I have owned the car for 6 months and it has visited the dealers 5 times now with an overall stay time of 1.5 months. I am very disappointed with my purchase and have lost faith in the brand.
I am considering trading it in for another vehicle of a different make (dealers own other dealerships).
They are urging me to take the car back as they strongly believe the issue as been resolved.
thoughts?
Let one of the mechanic drive it home every day until it acts up, the more they drive it the greater chance for them to experience the stumble. It's not getting fixed unless it acts up while they are present. Try giving Mini USA a call and perhaps thay can send someone out to check it out. You never know maybe they have had other owner's with a similar issue.
everyone in this thread is sharing a similar issue. I'm pretty sure they know about it.
I'm sure there must be a Mini indy shop that would know what's going on, I mean the dealer mechanics can't diagnose anything with out a code thrown by the ECU, they just start replacing things on your dime and hope that fixes it. You need a true mechanics that can get in there and troubleshoot this thing. I guess you could drive it until it starts to act up more often, that's worked out for me.
Get them to do the following:
Get on a highway, set it in 5th gear around 1500 rpms, and floor it. Do that 5 times and i can almost guarantee it will happen, thats the main scenario that i always get the stumble in.
Get on a highway, set it in 5th gear around 1500 rpms, and floor it. Do that 5 times and i can almost guarantee it will happen, thats the main scenario that i always get the stumble in.
Wouldn't they just argue that putting it in gear to soon is the cause?



