2005 Mini Cooper S Newbie
#1
2005 Mini Cooper S Newbie
Hello all.
My handle is "TRINI" and very new to the forum.
I am located in Melbourne, Florida and I own 2 Mini Coopers.
I am a retired technical trainer and moved to Florida a few years ago after retirement.
I will create a profile once I look at how the forum works.
Anyway, here is the problem I have: I lent the 2005 Mini to my grandson and the car blew a coolant hose and overheated.
The car does not start anymore.
I did a compression test and I am getting approximately 35 PSI on all 4 cylinders.
I ordered the tool to lock the camshaft gear as I am planning to remove the cylinder head for further inspection.
Since I am new to the problems that that can occur on a Mini after overheating, I am reaching out to the members of this forum for some advice.
Any and all inputs will be considered.
Thank you.
My handle is "TRINI" and very new to the forum.
I am located in Melbourne, Florida and I own 2 Mini Coopers.
I am a retired technical trainer and moved to Florida a few years ago after retirement.
I will create a profile once I look at how the forum works.
Anyway, here is the problem I have: I lent the 2005 Mini to my grandson and the car blew a coolant hose and overheated.
The car does not start anymore.
I did a compression test and I am getting approximately 35 PSI on all 4 cylinders.
I ordered the tool to lock the camshaft gear as I am planning to remove the cylinder head for further inspection.
Since I am new to the problems that that can occur on a Mini after overheating, I am reaching out to the members of this forum for some advice.
Any and all inputs will be considered.
Thank you.
#2
Hello,
Here is some of the help, but its looks like a head gasket went or something stuck, like the thermostat.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...t-leaking.html
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...hat-to-do.html
Here is some of the help, but its looks like a head gasket went or something stuck, like the thermostat.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...t-leaking.html
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...hat-to-do.html
__________________
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
#3
Thank you for your response.
I have done the following so far. Disassembled all of the components to remove the valve cover.
I have exposed the timing chain and cam gear but the colored links on the chain do not line up.
The single colored link that is supposed to line up with the arrow on the cam gear is 14 links off to the front of the engine.
I spoke to the PO of the car and he told me that the timing chain was replaced on the car approx 2 years prior to me buying the car.
Since the car worked very well prior to the overheating, I am assuming that the timing was correct even though the chain was not set up with the colored links lining up as they should.
The Bentley manual states that as long as the arrow on the cam gear is at the 12 o'clock position, the colored link on the chain is not important??????
Not wanting to do extra work unless I have to, I would rather not disturb the timing chain cover.
I have the arrow pointing to 12 o'clock and all 4 pistons at their mid point. I am waiting for the cam gear locking tool before I go any further.
arrow and chain at approx 12 o'clock
all 4 pistons at their mid point
Is this the way to verify that the timing is correct? My car is a 2005 MY so I would think it is an R53.
I also read somewhere on this forum that if I bring Cylinder #1 to TDC there is a line on the crank gear that should line up with the rear surface of the head.
On every other engine I have worked on, timing is set with Cylinder #1 at TDC. Apparently, that is not the case with the R53 engine.
PLEASE BE REMINDED THAT I HAVE NEVER WORKED ON A MINI ENGINE BEFORE SO IF MY QUERIES SOUND DUMB, I APOLOGIZE IN ADVANCE.
If I am heading in the wrong direction please let me know. I am just looking for some clarity.
I have done the following so far. Disassembled all of the components to remove the valve cover.
I have exposed the timing chain and cam gear but the colored links on the chain do not line up.
The single colored link that is supposed to line up with the arrow on the cam gear is 14 links off to the front of the engine.
I spoke to the PO of the car and he told me that the timing chain was replaced on the car approx 2 years prior to me buying the car.
Since the car worked very well prior to the overheating, I am assuming that the timing was correct even though the chain was not set up with the colored links lining up as they should.
The Bentley manual states that as long as the arrow on the cam gear is at the 12 o'clock position, the colored link on the chain is not important??????
Not wanting to do extra work unless I have to, I would rather not disturb the timing chain cover.
I have the arrow pointing to 12 o'clock and all 4 pistons at their mid point. I am waiting for the cam gear locking tool before I go any further.
arrow and chain at approx 12 o'clock
all 4 pistons at their mid point
Is this the way to verify that the timing is correct? My car is a 2005 MY so I would think it is an R53.
I also read somewhere on this forum that if I bring Cylinder #1 to TDC there is a line on the crank gear that should line up with the rear surface of the head.
On every other engine I have worked on, timing is set with Cylinder #1 at TDC. Apparently, that is not the case with the R53 engine.
PLEASE BE REMINDED THAT I HAVE NEVER WORKED ON A MINI ENGINE BEFORE SO IF MY QUERIES SOUND DUMB, I APOLOGIZE IN ADVANCE.
If I am heading in the wrong direction please let me know. I am just looking for some clarity.
#4
__________________
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
#5
@ ECSTuning: Thank you.
MY guess is that all 4 pistons have to be at the same height in order to set the timing.
Since the timing chain was replaced prior to me owning the car, I surmise that it was installed without using the colored links of the chain.
I am going to remove the timing chain cover and do it the proper way since I am going to replace the chain and guides after I get the head back from the machine shop.
MY guess is that all 4 pistons have to be at the same height in order to set the timing.
Since the timing chain was replaced prior to me owning the car, I surmise that it was installed without using the colored links of the chain.
I am going to remove the timing chain cover and do it the proper way since I am going to replace the chain and guides after I get the head back from the machine shop.
The following users liked this post:
ECSTuning (05-04-2022)
#6
RE: 2005 Mini Cooper S
The machine shop called and said all the valves on the cylinder head were leaking. They are going to remove them to see if any are bent.
I am searching the websites for Intake and Exhaust valves for the car ahead of time just in case they are needed. I am seeing different specs.
Pelican Parts state that the Intake Valve # 11347513019 is 30.0mm, 6.0 mm stem and the Exhaust Valve #11347513024 is 23.0mm, 6.0 mm stem. I am looking for stock parts.
Are these numbers and specifications correct for my car.
I don't want to purchase the incorrect part.
FCP Euro is telling me the the above part numbers is for the Base MINI
Does anyone who has done this before have the correct part numbers and specs for the valves?
I really need some help here.
Thanks
The machine shop called and said all the valves on the cylinder head were leaking. They are going to remove them to see if any are bent.
I am searching the websites for Intake and Exhaust valves for the car ahead of time just in case they are needed. I am seeing different specs.
Pelican Parts state that the Intake Valve # 11347513019 is 30.0mm, 6.0 mm stem and the Exhaust Valve #11347513024 is 23.0mm, 6.0 mm stem. I am looking for stock parts.
Are these numbers and specifications correct for my car.
I don't want to purchase the incorrect part.
FCP Euro is telling me the the above part numbers is for the Base MINI
Does anyone who has done this before have the correct part numbers and specs for the valves?
I really need some help here.
Thanks
#7
Here you go, we have the largest MINI site and widest collection of parts. Watch as some of the MINI parts sites don't have a MINI guru who drives one
https://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2005-...Cylinder_Head/
Intervalves, coretco are good for replacements.
Exhaust 11347513024 / 11347513020, same parts just updated part number
https://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2005-...xhaust_Valves/
Intake 11347513019
https://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2005-...Intake_Valves/
https://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2005-...Cylinder_Head/
Intervalves, coretco are good for replacements.
Exhaust 11347513024 / 11347513020, same parts just updated part number
https://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2005-...xhaust_Valves/
Intake 11347513019
https://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2005-...Intake_Valves/
__________________
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
Trending Topics
#9
Yep, welcome
__________________
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
#10
The machine shop got back with me and told me that none of the valve were bent, so that saves me a few bucks.
Either way the whole job, machining the cylinder head and reseating all the valves = $450.00. I have to provide him with the valve seals.
I think the price is a little steep but it is the only machine shop in my area.
Either way the whole job, machining the cylinder head and reseating all the valves = $450.00. I have to provide him with the valve seals.
I think the price is a little steep but it is the only machine shop in my area.
#11
Ok, yep, shop around but when their is only one shop then you have to stick with the price.
__________________
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
#12
UPDATE: Please let me know if I did anything incorrectly.
I installed the cylinder head back on the car and torqued to specs: 1st stage 30 ft/lbs. 2nd stage 90 degrees.
I also installed a new crankshaft gear, a new camshaft gear new chain guides and a new tensioner. I set up the chain using the 2 colored links on the crank gear and the single colored link on the camshaft gear.
The crank gear arrows were somewhere between 4 and 5 o'clock and the cam gear at 12 o'clock.
I turned the engine somewhere between 30-40 times (I lost count) until the colored links on the chain lined back up with the arrows on the crank and cam gears, and all 4 pistons at their midway point.
I just want to verify that what I have done is correct before proceeding any further.
If anything I have written above is unclear please ask the questions so I can give some clarity to what I have done.
If anything above is incorrect please let me know.
I am waiting for some additional seals and gaskets to be shipped to me so I have some time to correct anything I did incorrectly.
Thanks
I installed the cylinder head back on the car and torqued to specs: 1st stage 30 ft/lbs. 2nd stage 90 degrees.
I also installed a new crankshaft gear, a new camshaft gear new chain guides and a new tensioner. I set up the chain using the 2 colored links on the crank gear and the single colored link on the camshaft gear.
The crank gear arrows were somewhere between 4 and 5 o'clock and the cam gear at 12 o'clock.
I turned the engine somewhere between 30-40 times (I lost count) until the colored links on the chain lined back up with the arrows on the crank and cam gears, and all 4 pistons at their midway point.
I just want to verify that what I have done is correct before proceeding any further.
If anything I have written above is unclear please ask the questions so I can give some clarity to what I have done.
If anything above is incorrect please let me know.
I am waiting for some additional seals and gaskets to be shipped to me so I have some time to correct anything I did incorrectly.
Thanks
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Craig_N
R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006)
20
02-16-2005 09:00 PM