Yes, that's always the way. I have about 6 to choose from in Bellevue, the city just east of Seattle, AKA Seattle's east side. 2 or three more possibles north of Seattle. I plan to drive several, but I am now focused on later models with low miles. It makes things easier when the car is 5 years old vs. 11.

I know the R53 would be more smiles per mile when pushed hard, but from what I have read, I think the softer cars suit my needs better right now.
I have room to park a vintage Lotus, next year I get something really fun.

 

Newere are so unreliable and when the chain fails they are junk

 

If a 2007 to 2009 has had the timing chain SB preformed at a dealer, what other issues should I beware of with those years. Bad tensioners happen, look at the 996 Porsche 911's with the bad IMS bearings. Great car, less than 5% had an issues, and less than 1% actually failed, but the value is still way below expected depreciation on that model because of it.

Is this the for the 2007-2009 MCS's? Is it actually a decent car with one know problem that can be permanently fixed? Or is it a problem ridden POS that should be avoided all together?

I know a lot of you guys prefer the R53's, but I want lower miles than I am finding in those cars since I'll be putting over 17500 per year on it for at least a few years. I also like the softer, slightly larger small car vs. the go cart character of the earlier cars.

 

Hey, id like to know also, i have been looking for MINI for months now and i just cant figure out what i want. A part of me wants the 2006MCS but i drove a 2005MCS and was not impressed, interior rattles everywhere and the clutch was really heavy and springy. I hear the newer 2007 and up minis ride a little better and are quieter but the reliability is much worse then the 2006.. Good luck to you!

 

Excessive oil consumption. And you will have to deal with carbon buildup...which will give you an amber CHECK ENGINE LIGHT...but the good news is the carbon buildup is easy to fix with a walnut blast.

Again, your best bet is to go with a 2011 and fwd for the S model.

 

My leading choice right now is a 2011 with 43K on it. They are asking $15888, NADA and Kelly's both put it at $12,000, and it's the end of the month, I know from having owned a motorcycle dealership, it's the best time to buy.


I won't pay over NADA or Kelly's Blue for for a vehicle. Why do so many sellers, both private and dealers price stuff so far over book? I can't imagine the rest of the buyers out there don't notice. I'm writing a check, but those who finance can't get a loan over book value.

 

Some are going by what comparable cars in the market sell for. For instance, they read TruCar just like we do and sort by zip code. Definitely check TruCar in your area if you haven't already. For others, it's just trying to up the profit margin and having more room to negotiate, especially if a trade-in were involved. Of course, then there's greed . . .

Drive Hard. Drive Safe. Keep Grinning.

 

Have you drove an r56 and r53 yet? I sold both my r56 and kept the r53s, they are just more fun!

 

I just bought a 2011 MCS. Got it a Chaplins VW in Bellevue. Asking price was 15999, brought it home for 13000. 45K miles. Hotchkins (spelling?) links in the rear, Alta rear sway bar, and some sort of brace from the front suspension to the middle of the car. I'm sure I'll know what I've got after a bit of Googleing. Also has an after market hose for the Turbo intake and what looks to be a Mini branded sport rear exhaust section. Also JCW steering wheel. I thhink I got a good car.

There is a BMW club track day sticker in the rear window. I think it was probably taken to some, but that's okay. My track day bike have always been the better of the bikes I have had, and track day guys usually do a lot more (and often better) maintenance.

I love it. I'll post a picture and then move on from this thread. To everyone who gave me advice, thank you.

 

True car has it's moments, but isn't really that great. NADA pricing is still the auto industry standard and any legit dealer that's been around will sell at or below NADA when challenged on it. Worked today. It was as simple as saying "here is the NADA price, here is a check"

 

...waiting for the pictures

 

 

Very nice, congrats!

Here is a service and maintenance guide for your 2011!

http://new.minimania.com/Mini_Cooper...for_Gen2_Minis

Drive Hard. Drive Safe. Keep Grinning.

 

Thanks.

 

It just had an oil change at the dealer who sold it. Synthetic, but I didn't ask what type. I will change it again anyways. I am also planning on doing the gear box and the coolant, brake fluid, may get a drop in K&N, or maybe an intake for it. It's dusty here, and we get fire smoke with ash. I clean the K&N's, BMC's, or AFE (have bought a few variations for our different rigs) every other oil change unless I feel it need to be done sooner.

How do you feel about Mobile One Synthetic for the oil? Not dead set on it or anything, but I live in a small town and travel to other small towns. If I need some, Walmart has it, and there is always a Walmart. My Jeeps have done very well on it, and I change it every 4000 to 6000 depending on what kind of driving I have done.

Reline doesn't off gear box oil in the right type, got to figure out what to buy.

I'll probably use some Motul brake fluid in it. I have a bunch of un-opened bottles I need to use up before they expire.

 

As long as it's 5W-30 you should be fine.

As far cold air intake, we recommend the following:

http://new.minimania.com/Search_Resu...20intake/Parts

Transmission fluid:

http://new.minimania.com/Search_Resu...%20fluid/Parts

Brake fluid:

http://new.minimania.com/Search_Resu...%20fluid/Parts

Drive Hard. Drive Safe. Keep Grinning.

 

very nice!