May not be here often but was tipped to a NAM member's need for classic bits so came to sign up and look in.

Have a good drive to Mini Meet West in Irvine (or to Mini Meet East in Bethel).

We might meet in California.

 

Hi,

I remember Mini's from when I was a kid, rally driving was big and Mini's were new. What year is your ride? I am in the process of ordering an 09, but I do fondly remember the classics. It's the classic mini that brought me to look and want a new one.

 

Hi Sikamini,

My Classic Mini was built in July 1979 as a 1980 Mini 1000 for Canada. We stripped it completely in late December 2003 for the resto/rebuild.

Go to http://uberjumper.hwcommunity.com/ga...heyellowhornet for more pictures of the project than you probably want to see.

Back on the road in May 2006 for transcontinemtal trip to MMW in Prescott, Arizona and then est to MME in Frederick, Maryland before heading west to home in British Columbia.

Rick/Hunter2

 

Hi Sikamini,

Classic was built in July 1979 as a 1980 Mini 1000 for Canada and was one of the last sold here in B.C. when British Lyland stopped shipping Minis to Canada.

My older son bought it from the original owner in September 1995 and I from him in June 1999. Mini was stripped between Xmas and New Years 2003 for complete rebuild and new power unit.

As modified stock Mini with 998cc or new build with 1380cc the Mini has visited 6 Cdn. Provinces and 27 US States...having gone transcontinental twice.

Rick/Hunter2

 

Rick, that's a great little mini. Looking at the body work brought me back to my youth when I was a part time car restorer. I guess bondo work is still the same. What was the green stuff on the roof when you were checking it for imperfections? That's a lot of hand work and a cool trailer too - I loved the yellow. Thank you for sharing makes me want to go out and restore one - wish I had the time.

 

Can't recall brand of filler on the roof...it had a very slight dent from someone slapping/hitting it hard as they walked by before I got car from my son (probably one of his Mess buddies). Right side rear quarter also got a little to smooth out original factory steel work. No "bondo" used where steel holed by rust etc. All rust was cut out and new steel put in.

 

Cut outs must have been small. Did you mig weld or oxy? Sure looks like a great project, I hope your enjoying the ride.

 

How did you match the metal? Factory or salvage?

 

Hi Sikamini,

On this Mini, I was not interested in cut and paste so it got two new half floors, new bootboard (rear subframe mounting panel), new outer sills, new A panels, new wings, new front and rear aprons, new scuttle panels and repairs in rear corner of boot floor (below rear lights - 5 layers of metal from factory for late Canadian bumpers leads to a rust sandwich over time). However dealing with major panel replacement meant less cut and past. All seam sealed and Waxoyled.

Original doors, bonnet and boot lid.

Steel work is ultra sound!

Now the trailer had some cut and paste, especially since the front half was in very poor condition and needed its rear lights welded up etc. However, I had saved a good rear half so that compensated a little. After uniting the two rear ends, the shock towers were cut out (for flat replacement in wells) as were the original boot floors/battery boxes for a flat floor. One new and one used bootlid, 2 new rear aprons and 6 pieces cut fronm the rear of two salvaged Mini roofs to fabricate the trailer roof.

Trailer suspension was custom designed (by yours truly) and used a stainless steel dead axle utilizing Mini hubs/spindles, welded up backing plates, fabricated mounting for backing plates with hub flange spacing as per stock mini - then spacered Mini fin drums were used to get same "S" stance as Mini sedan up front.

More than meets the eye perhaps!

Rick/Hunter2

 

Hi Rick:

That's a lot of work! Look's really great. How hard is it come by large panels for a classic Mini? It's easier to see that you have done a lot work from design to finish on the trailer, but I would not have guessed you replaced large panels on the Mini. I'll have to look throught the photo's again. Have you had a chance to look at classic forum at NAM? That's one cute trailer. Maybe a similar concept could be used with the new version. How much weight can you carry on that trailer? It seems it would be pretty handy on trips. Mini's don't really have a lot of long haul space, but that's larger than a good size boot on a larger car.

Juha/sikamini

 

Hi Sikamini,

Classic Mini steel replacement panels are available from the larger suppliers to our sector either Heritage or aftermarket, like Mini Machine.

I usually haul the trailer at some + 400 lbs. loaded, so that Mini and trailer combo are some 2,500 lbs. loaded on a trip. Maybe more could be loaded in trailer...but I'd like to keep it at not more than 20% of towing Mini's weight.

Combination led to my decision to build an offset bored 1380cc engine and run it through final drive gears at 2.95:1. This produces our 42 mpg RV on travels!

Hunter2

 

That's super. I like the fuel economy your getting. When I get some decent garage space I wouldn't mind trying to restore and old Mini. I really don't have your mechanical and engineering skills, but I usually have fun learning. Offset bored! What did you need to change internally when you offset the bore?

Is the 20% an empirical or scientific? It seems you have a fair amount of engineering abilities. Perhaps an engineer? I am an architect myself, and I really appreciate your design work on the "honey pot". I think that design could easily expand the capabilities of a traveling mini. Maybe you could market it.

So do you have another project in the works or are you continuously improving on Pooh and Honey Pot?

sika

 

Hi Sikamini,

Offset boring when going to a 1380cc configuration with 73.5 mm pistons means moving the bore centers when machining so that when the block needs a rebuild it will be possible to go to 74 mm. If the bore centers are not realigned the 1380 bore is the last for that block.

My engineering skills are slim indeed but I've always tried to focus on what works and to build in a little extra - a reserve when on an extended trip and Classic Mini parts and know how may not be near to hand.

Loaded on a trip, the Mini weighs in at a little less than 2,100 lbs. The trailer with a decent load adds 400 lbs. Crossing Missouri in 2006, while in fairly heavy traffic, we hit a huge pothole on the highway just before the mid-state crossing of the Missouri River. The trailer was thrown into the air and swung side to side from outside tirewall to outside tirewall while I reined it in. Eveyone else backed off as we crossed the bridge.

So the 20%, takes into account the "lightness" of the Mini's rear wheel loads and their breaking loose in wet, dusty slippery conditions if the trailer is disturbed.

Needless to say, I was more than a little upset that a major highway had a dangerous, unmarked hole in the traffic lane immediately before rolling onto the bridge. One of the perils of road travel I guess.

Yes, I pay attention to Pooh and the Hunny Pot. In the background is a 1961 Austin Mini Countryman that we intend to put a turbo A series in with 8.4" discs and rolling on 12" wheels. We are quietly assembling bits for that build with a fair bit in hand though much body work to do. Its completion is some time off.

Rick/Hunter2

 

Our 1961 Turbo Austin Mini Countryman build should be charging hard by summer of 2010; just in time for my Dad's retirement.

Jeremy

 

Nice Classic Mini, the trailer looks great.

 

Thanks for the compliments on the trailer. I ID'd the basic design and spec'd the spring/axle design and followed it through, however a good friend John G. did the cutting and pasting on the trailer after the two halves/halfs were spliced together.

Rick/Hunter2

 

Thanks for the compliments on the trailer. I ID'd the basic design and spec'd the spring/axle design and followed it through, however a good friend John G. did the cutting and pasting on the trailer after the two halves/halfs were spliced together.

Rick/Hunter2

 

Can't believe I get out of neutral and into 1st gear by double posting....

 

Very nice classic!! i've thought about going on road trips in mine but my dad says i'm nuts.

 

Don't be afraid to go on road trips. Prepare the Mini with needed servicing...especially checking all hoses (coolant and fuel), suspension torques etc. If a small engine Mini don't push it too hard. Make sure it has enough functioning cooling capacity for hard work under load.

Take spares that might be needed - dizzy bits, solenoid, fuel pump, fan belt, water pump, head gasket, alternator, one set each of front and rear wheel bearings, etc. and only those tools to do those things - including torque wrench for 150 ft. lbs. if "S" front hubs. Duct and electrical tape, some electrical wire and connectors are also good as is some soft iron wire. Tire pressure gauge, scissors jack, flashlight, fire extinguisher.

We've gone transcontinental and lost an exhaust valve (twice when loaded in 998 form) and a drive flange (fortunately near B.C. Alberta border on way home). Drove Mini to Montreal on 3 cylinders from MME 2000 for new valve and home from Washigton State on 3 cylinders in 2003. Tip-toeing got us home from Sparwood after retorquing the front hub in 2006.

You will probably not need anything you take but other Minis on the road might and you will need something they have! In 2002, a Mini at MMW in Costa Mesa needed a bypass hose - all the way from Canada, I was the only one who had the hose on the spot.

 

Congrats on your shift up. That's an impressive check list and a good reminder to be prepared when travelling. Do you any pictures of the Countryman? Or is still too early in the works?

 

Hi Sikamini,

Woody project is in stage of assembling bits. We have complete steel work including hew half floors, A panels, wings, aprons and bonnet. 2 sets of decent doors and good rear doors, all glass, handles/hardware etc., good front subframe NEED rear subframe, new fuel tank, rebuilt rear trailing arms, new Metro rotors and good hubs/calipers for rebuild, oil injector block c/w 4 bolt main, Longman head, new pistons good A+ rods, crank being ordered, new tranny case and shifter forks, new synchros, need new SC drop gear set, need competition layshaft and baulk rings, need 2nd gear for good A+ helical gear set, have good mainshaft and FD choices from 3.1 to 3.44 (new), will use ATB diff, have several steering racks, two turbos and plumbing,...and so it goes.

Must get my 5-speed Buick V6 MGB out of the way and gone to speed things up!

Rick/Hunter2

 

Hi Hunter2:

Looks like you have most of your parts already to go. I noticed your doubling up on some parts is that an availability issue? Are you finding most of your parts on the net or other sources? Also, I had a question on using the Waxoyl you mentioned earlier. At what stages of the work did you apply it and how? Will it work on sealing surface rust inside rocker panels? I have an old SAAB which needs a little treatment. Woody sounds like a fun project. Look forward to updates on his progress.

Juha/sikamini

 

We have only doubled up based on opportunity and cost. Parts from individuals, from any of our NA suppliers as needed and some from our own stripping of old Mini shells.

For example, my spare brake light switch came out of an old Mini we bought way back in 1991 as a $120 carcass.

My winshield wiper motor came from a 1969 MGB we stripped (also better as 110 deg, sweep). It was near new but didn't look it from the outside.

100+ wheels came from another $121 carcass and were restored for my son's Mini in 1993. Those on the Brown 'Pooh' came from various points - one brand new one for $35 at a British car Swap Meet! Same place I bought E-Jag door handles for 50 and 75 cents to replace the plastic Mini handles that break so easily in the cold.

Find the bits where you can. Keeping eyes and ears open helps!

Waxoyl was used after paint (not before as will contaminate surfaces to be painted) and can be used at any time therafter. Was sprayed up into painted sills and through rear sub frame mounting bolt holes! And over inside rear arch joints, boot floor corners below tailights, front of boot floor/rear seat back etc.

 

Yes, it's amazing how much you can save by recycling. You must a large storage area and a very understanding wife. Just reading your list makes me ask, are there that many old Mini's near you? I used to go around junk yards when I was younger and look for car parts. It was pretty tough finding parts for a little Swedish import. Mini should have the production numbers, but usually just driving by now I see fewer cars of interest in those yards. Mostly Japanese imports and so on. Probably would be pretty hard to go on a trip and bring back a car. Sounds like many parts can be interchanged between other British models and that probably helps. But you still have to have the knowledge base to figure out what will work and what will not. Thanks for the tip on the Waxoyl I'll have to get some and try it out.

Isn't it funny though, sometimes you can get a whole car the price of a single part. Just wonderful.

Will you start assembling Woody anytime soon?