Tools needed for subframe removal:
8mm, 10mm, 13mm, 16mm sockets
Socket extension
¼ drive and/or 3/8ths drive ratchet, ½ inch drive ratchet and/or long breaker bar
17mm open end wrench, (optional 16mm ratcheting box end wrench)
Phillips screw driver
Ball joint removal tool (BMW 32-3-090 or equivalent, NAPA KD3916 used)
Torque wrenches capable of 7 to 74 ft-lb range


Tools for anti-sway bar installation:
18mm socket, ratchet
Long breaker bar or impact wrench
Torque wrench 122 ft-lb capable


Equipment:
Automotive hydraulic jack
Vehicle stands

Remove the reservoir bracket and bend the heat shield upward to allow the reservoir to pass downward; it is easier to perform these steps before lifting the vehicle.


Place the vehicle on stands and remove the front wheels. Remove the lower steering shaft universal joint pinch bolt with a 13mm (ratcheting box end or ratchet & socket).


Remove the power steering fan and unplug the connector.


Remove the bumper cover and bumper. Although this can be done solo it helps to have assistance holding the bumper cover while unplugging the light fixtures and thermometer.


Unscrew this bolt connecting the radiator support to the crush tube.


Unbolt the crush tube; this is where a long breaker-bar or long handled ½ inch drive ratchet (recommended) come in handy.


Disconnect the drop link from the swaybar. The tie rod can get in the way for access with a ratchet so, either use a ratcheting box end wrench, disconnect the link’s upper mounting point first, or pop the tie rod ball joint. The sequence is not critical, but removal is.


Take the wheel speed sensor wire off its perch.


Undo the tie rod nut.


Pop the steering tie rod ball joint; be careful here because energy will be released violently so never operate a ball joint removal tool overhead.


Unbolt the outer ball joint bracket to steering knuckle.


Remove the lower engine vibration damper mount bolt.


Place the lift pad from an automotive jack under the round hole in the center of the subframe and raise the pad till it can support.


Remove the forward subframe mounting bolts.



Remove the other subframe bolts.


Lower the subframe enough to access the power steering connectors and unplug them.


Continue to lower the subframe, go slowly making sure the power steering reservoir passes freely.


Roll the subframe from under the vehicle while continuing to monitor the power steering reservoir.


Unbolt the swaybar/control arm bushing bracket.


Install the new swaybar/stabilizer bar and torque to 122 ft-lb.


Install in reverse.

Torque values:
Subframe 74 ft-lb
Tie-rod ball joint 38 ft-lb
Outer ball joint to steering knuckle 41 ft-lb
Swaybar end link 41 ft-lb
Crush tube to subframe 74 ft-lb
Bumper to modular front end/crush tubes 16 ft-lb
Lower engine vibration damper 74 ft-lb
Power steering fan to pump bracket 14 ft-lb
Steering shaft universal joint pinch bolt 16 ft-lb
Control arm bushing bracket to body, replace bolt, 44 ft-lb + 90 degree turn

 

Very nice Post. I just did a front and rear sway bar on my Wife's MINI. Same deal no Lift. However I did it without dropping the whole subframe. It was a big pain in the a$$.

 

beautiful. great photos and good narrative. thanks so much

 

like always...

Matt

 

wow.. it is very hard to install the front but the rear.

 

Do you have to lock the steering wheel before you do this?

Also do you need the tool to pop the steering tie rod ball joint? You can't gently tap it with a rubber mallet?

I'm going to be doing this soon - most likely this weekend. Thanks k-huevo for all the help you pm'd me as well as for doing this write up. Very helpful.

 

There is no need to hold the steering wheel in position; even if you forget to place the universal joint correctly before lifting the subframe, the steering column can be pushed inward far enough to swing the joint back in the correct orientation. The shaft on the steering rack will not move while disconnected.

Sorry, I can’t answer the mallet question but it does take a lot of leverage to break the ball joint free so I would imagine it would require more than a light tap.

 

Put the steering wheel a bit off center to get to the nut on the lower steering column coupler. Undid the nut, returned the steering to center and locked it for the duration.

Matt

 

This sounds like a job for sledge-o-matic!!

 

k-huevo...

Seems I missed the steps about all the cussing and tool throwing. Please edit the procedure, so it's more realistic.

Thanks!

 

...ah, I'll be spending my Saturday morning performing this procedure...at least it will be hot

Kieth, I, like others here, appreciate this thread. I've printed it out in book form...I've rehearsed the events, and I'll be onstage tomorrow

I'll inlcude the number of times I had to swear and how many tools I had to throw...and go purchase again because I threw them so far away I couldn't find them.

I took your advice and purchased the bushings in the brackets for $49.00 each...I expected these to cost more. So new stock bushings, new LCA ball joints and new tie rods...again.

Michael

 

Bonus tip: The cap on the power steering reservoir has a small breather hole that can drip fluid when the reservoir is tilted to the side. Not enough will escape to be of major consequence but to prevent droplets from spilling, cut a Q-tip swab, wrap some plastic film on the shaft and insert into the hole to plug it.

 

Don't forgot to count the bruises, cuts, and gashes on your hands/arms/legs/feet. I had about 15. Then again i just dropped the subframe rather than removing it all together...

 

So...I should expect about 30 cuts/bruises/gashes

Kieth, thanks for that tip...my luck the PS fluid would drip out into my eyes...game over.

I should have started earlier, but so mant great programs on Speed this morning. And I just love working from 8,000 degree blacktop

If I see anything unusaul, I'll take a picture and include it...along with at least one cut...

 

One very small cut and one very big bruise on my knee.

This job was far easier than I expected. And reinstalling the subframe was a piece of cake. The 90 degree temps didn't even bother me today. What almost killed the project was one of the two hydraulic jacks; it would not drop with control, but suddenly. So I was beginning to panic about how to get the car up...I decided to drive it on ramps, made a beam from wood, set the wood on the good jack and jacked the car up from the front. The beam connected the left and right side subframe about where the ball joint is - worked perfectly. Set the car down on the jack stands and removed the ramps. This took me an hour , but I was not prepared to take any chances with a bad hydraulic jack.

The second hardest part was getting the stock bushings on the LCA stud. I tried every lube I have...but in the end, Palmolive dish detergent worked incredibly well. Greg - Onasled - joked with me on the phone..."you may find that Palmolive eats rubber, that would be your luck."

I forgot to install the headlight leveling sensor. I noticed after the subframe was in and torqued...it's not going back in

The power flex bushings and the inner ball joints were all in great shape, but I replaced all anyway.

The only odd observation was with the new H&R Sportcoilover kit...and a few of you may know that I'm having problems with this kit too. The damper body is about as wide as the upper portion of most other dampers. This requires spreading the knuckle quite a bit the get these H&Rs to fit. Consequently, they do not have a stop and this concenred me a great deal. Well, the driver's side damper settled 1/4" farther into the knucle than when installed a few weeks ago. It stopped, because the brake hose flange prevents it from going farther. The problem here is each damper is at a different height, and, one of the front endlinks was preloaded pretty bad, by 1/4". I'm still working on this problem.

Kieth, thank you for this thread, it was a comforting help. The total job took about 6 hours from setup to a nice shower. I think I actually swore twice; once when the electrical conector to the light leveling sensor would not come off and second...I cannot remember, but there was another moment. Dinner and a glass of wine topped it off!

I'll get some pictures here Tuesday or Wed.

 

Lock the steering wheel after unbolting the shaft to keep from damaging the ribbon cable that passes signals (horn, multi function, etc...) from the steering to the body.

I too took the subframe out last night. I'll be installing another clutch and trying out an obx LSD. Unfortunately I left the new steering rack bushing in my tool box at work.

Dropping the subframe is much easier than it looks. Your friends will think your a genius when they see the bumper and frame spread out on the floor.

 

I know this is an old thread, but have a question on this I have my subframe dropped except for the ball-joint bracket to the steering knuckle In the attached image I have indicated where my point of pain is. Any suggestions on how to disconnect the ball joint bracket from the steering knuckle? Or would it be easier just to pop that ball joint, though I have tried with my small ball joint tool used on the tie rod ends with no success. Am I just not pushing it hard enough? I would really like to know how to separate the bracket from the knuckle, if it's possible.

Thanks in advance,

Mac

 

I've done it, the two have separated with a bit of co-ersion. It looks like a bit of corrosion has mated the two a bit. Try some penetrating oil and a bigger hammer!

Keith has much more finesse than I do, so I'm sure he'll chime in with a better technique!

Matt

 

Spray penetrating fluid from above in the opening at the bottom of the steering knuckle, strike the edge near a bolt hole with a hammer on drift, alternate sides to encourage some twist action, after the ball joint bracket has moved there should be enough gap to get the blade of a small pry bar or screwdriver wedged in to initiate further separation. I encountered one on a car that spent most of its life in New York that would not let go, and had to use a ball joint separator on it. An overnight application of penetrating oil my be necessary.

 

Thanks for the quick reply guys! I will update the thread to let you know what worked!

Mac

 

Just have to say that is a pretty good How to. I advise anyone doing this to go ahead and replace the front control arm bushings while you have it down. Plus that Front Sway makes the car feel so much more planted.

 

More than a sledge-o-matic and a quart of PB Blaster is needed to get those suckers (ball-joint bracket) loose. Had to walk away from it.

 

you have some great write ups! used this one and trans removal guides today.

my only suggestion, there is no need to remove crush tubes. once the front end is in service mode, tubes are only contected to frame. they come with the frame when removing.

 

I'm having the same issue....what technique did you use to get that outer ball joint out?

 

Jwp2 Any luck? I am having the same issue. I tried a ball joint seperator and stripped the threads on the tool. Sooo frustrating! TIA