Rear Hatch Hinge Broke......
#1
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Webster, MA
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There is rust at the pivot point, the hinge severed ~ 1" below that.
Sheared the metal, it almost looks like metal failure.
I'll post pics when I can.
It's straight forward on how it mounts to the hatch, but it looks like I'll need to remove the headliner to get to internal mount.
Still searching for a DIY.
Sheared the metal, it almost looks like metal failure.
I'll post pics when I can.
It's straight forward on how it mounts to the hatch, but it looks like I'll need to remove the headliner to get to internal mount.
Still searching for a DIY.
#7
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#8
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Well I finally had time to repalce the hinges....all was well until I stripped the flippin' torx screw. MINI could have used a more robust srew head or a deeper well.
Had to drill both of em'....what a pain in the butt.
New hinges are in and "LUBED"....hatch works nicely.
I love this car, but the numerous little issues that pop up are starting to test my resolve.
Had to drill both of em'....what a pain in the butt.
New hinges are in and "LUBED"....hatch works nicely.
I love this car, but the numerous little issues that pop up are starting to test my resolve.
Last edited by 05Greenie; 10-19-2010 at 06:52 PM.
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#12
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I'm looking for a trim piece, I'll do my best to descridbe it.
The small trim piece on the drivers side upper pillar between the widnshield and driver side window. I had the windshield replaced and the trim piece fell off. I hope I did a good enough job of describing it?????
#13
#14
Well I finally had time to repalce the hinges....all was well until I stripped the flippin' torx screw. MINI could have used a more robust srew head or a deeper well.
Had to drill both of em'....what a pain in the butt.
New hinges are in and "LUBED"....hatch works nicely.
I love this car, but the numerous little issues that pop up are starting to test my resolve.
Had to drill both of em'....what a pain in the butt.
New hinges are in and "LUBED"....hatch works nicely.
I love this car, but the numerous little issues that pop up are starting to test my resolve.
#15
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Can you go over what you did to get the new hinges in? One of my hinges is on the verge of breakage, and removing the headliner enough to get at the bolts proved very frustrating today! In fact, I couldn't really do it and I was afraid I was going to break the plastic trim pieces on the columns and/or ruin my headliner. Any suggestions you can offer from your replacement would be much appreciated.
Hope that helps??? Are you local??? I live in Webster, Ma if your not too far I would be more than happy to help you out if you need it?
#16
I'm in MD...if I was in MA, I definitely would take you up on the offer!
#18
Successfully changed my hatch hinges today. Certainly not as easy as it looks. Fitting a ratchet in under the headliner to loosen the hex nut is pretty tricky. Also took me a few tries to verify proper alignment of the hatch. I did try to use the paint lines as a guide, but being off even just a little caused noticeable alignment issues when closed.
What surprised me the most was how hard the old hinges were to move - basically seemed almost completely seized when off the car. On the car, you never would have noticed because of the torque of the hatch. Lesson learned - make lubricating hinges a part of regular maintenance on any car!
As a reference for those who might attempt this:
The torx bolt that attaches the hinge to the hatch is a T40. The hex nut that attaches the hinge to the body is 13mm. If you need a replacement hex nut (I dropped mine into the bodywork right after loosening it, probably good to have on hand just in case the same happens to you), the spec on the threading is 8mm, 1.25. You'll also need a fender washer if you use a new hex nut. Or, you can buy replacement screws from the dealer which include a flange.
What surprised me the most was how hard the old hinges were to move - basically seemed almost completely seized when off the car. On the car, you never would have noticed because of the torque of the hatch. Lesson learned - make lubricating hinges a part of regular maintenance on any car!
As a reference for those who might attempt this:
The torx bolt that attaches the hinge to the hatch is a T40. The hex nut that attaches the hinge to the body is 13mm. If you need a replacement hex nut (I dropped mine into the bodywork right after loosening it, probably good to have on hand just in case the same happens to you), the spec on the threading is 8mm, 1.25. You'll also need a fender washer if you use a new hex nut. Or, you can buy replacement screws from the dealer which include a flange.
Last edited by gknorr; 06-18-2011 at 06:29 AM.
#19
There is rust at the pivot point, the hinge severed ~ 1" below that.
Sheared the metal, it almost looks like metal failure.
I'll post pics when I can.
It's straight forward on how it mounts to the hatch, but it looks like I'll need to remove the headliner to get to internal mount.
Still searching for a DIY.
Sheared the metal, it almost looks like metal failure.
I'll post pics when I can.
It's straight forward on how it mounts to the hatch, but it looks like I'll need to remove the headliner to get to internal mount.
Still searching for a DIY.
#20
Removing the entire headliner would be a serious pain:
http://tis.spaghetticoder.org/s/view.pl?1/07/12/99
You might not have to do everything mentioned there, but even still, it would be a pain.
I managed to loosen the rear pillars enough to lower the back part of the headliner down so I could get at the nuts holding the hinges in place. I had to bend the headliner, but the creases were only temporary. Once everything was back in place, you wouldn't be able to tell that I had to bend it.
Also, having an extra person to hold the hatch up while tightening the nuts is pretty much a must.
http://tis.spaghetticoder.org/s/view.pl?1/07/12/99
You might not have to do everything mentioned there, but even still, it would be a pain.
I managed to loosen the rear pillars enough to lower the back part of the headliner down so I could get at the nuts holding the hinges in place. I had to bend the headliner, but the creases were only temporary. Once everything was back in place, you wouldn't be able to tell that I had to bend it.
Also, having an extra person to hold the hatch up while tightening the nuts is pretty much a must.
#23
Yes, my bolt on the hinge just pulled through the body today. I don't have a T40 Torx to remove from the hatch yet. I will take some pics and post. I thought I read in one of the posts that the writer suggested adding a fender washer.
My hinges have not broken, but alignment has gotten way off. I think it was pulling the bolt out of the hole.
My hinges have not broken, but alignment has gotten way off. I think it was pulling the bolt out of the hole.
#24
Yes, my bolt on the hinge just pulled through the body today. I don't have a T40 Torx to remove from the hatch yet. I will take some pics and post. I thought I read in one of the posts that the writer suggested adding a fender washer.
My hinges have not broken, but alignment has gotten way off. I think it was pulling the bolt out of the hole.
My hinges have not broken, but alignment has gotten way off. I think it was pulling the bolt out of the hole.
#25
Here is a picture of the mounting hole. I don't know what it looks like normally except there is rust particles in the bottom. The nut came right through the hole, so the hatch was way out of alignment. The hinge itself was rusty, but the hinge was not cracked. I flated out the area, put some SS fender washer behind the hole and bolted a new hinge up. It seems to have worked. I also lubed the new hinge with silicone lubricant